ABS light comes on after roter, caliper, pads replaced? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-23-2012, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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ABS light comes on after roter, caliper, pads replaced?

Over the weekend, I had to replace my front right disc rotor and pads due to a rock lodging in the rotor and dust brake guard.

I also had to end up replacing the caliper too.

when reassembling the disc rotor on the truck, i tightened the axle nut down as stated in the manual. Says 21 ft lb, then untighten a half turn, then torque to 12 ft lb.

I bleed the brakes as suppose too.

This morning I turn the truck on and the ABS light was on. stayed on all the way to work. I noticed when i touched the brake to stop, it would kick back at me once and then i could push the brake all the way down.

did i do something wrong?

my truck is a 2003 f250 7.3 2 wheel drive auto



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post #2 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 06:56 AM
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I'd suspect the system isn't bled completely.
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Hm, well I can always try to bleed the system again. All I did was do the basic brake bleeding

Push down brake pedal while the screw was open, then shut up and lift the brake pedal.

Did this about 6 times. 2 people doing it.


Although now I dont have the ABS pushing back on the pedal, I do still have the light on.



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post #4 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 09:44 AM
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Could also be a sensor. Make sure they aren't messed up, are plugged in also.



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post #5 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
Could also be a sensor. Make sure they aren't messed up, are plugged in also.
Well the thing about that is I never touched the ABS sensor, I mean it could always be a possibility that it came lose?

I read up somewhere that it is not uncommon for the ABS sensor to come on after replacing a rotor on the front right wheel.


Also, Did i tighten down the axle nut right?

I have a 2 wheel drive 2003 ford f250 with a 7.3

I replaced these parts in the front right wheel.

1st step was to tighten to 21 foot lbs
2nd was to untighten a hald turn
3rd was to tighten to 12 foot lbs

Does that sound right?



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post #6 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 09:49 AM
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Im gonna go with a sensor plug being loose or a sensor went bad. If your brake pedal is solid and plenty of fluid in the system. Only other thing it could be is a air bubble in the abs box if to much fluid drained out during the install.

You might have air in the system.
Try this
Pump the brakes until you cant move the pedal
Have a friend pop the screw open.
Once pedal hits the floor
Tighten screw
release pressure on pedal
For this process to work you must start at the rear pass tire, then rear driver, then pass front, then driver front.

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post #7 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishluck View Post
Well the thing about that is I never touched the ABS sensor, I mean it could always be a possibility that it came lose?

I read up somewhere that it is not uncommon for the ABS sensor to come on after replacing a rotor on the front right wheel.


Also, Did i tighten down the axle nut right?

I have a 2 wheel drive 2003 ford f250 with a 7.3

I replaced these parts in the front right wheel.

1st step was to tighten to 21 foot lbs
2nd was to untighten a hald turn
3rd was to tighten to 12 foot lbs
Does that sound right?
I thought the first torque setting was a little more. First torque is to set the bearing. I would try to apply a little more and set that rotor tighter on the spindle. That could be your problem. When I do it on my car i do it by feel, feels more then 21 footlbs

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post #8 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiller View Post
Im gonna go with a sensor plug being loose or a sensor went bad. If your brake pedal is solid and plenty of fluid in the system. Only other thing it could be is a air bubble in the abs box if to much fluid drained out during the install.

You might have air in the system.
Try this
Pump the brakes until you cant move the pedal
Have a friend pop the screw open.
Once pedal hits the floor
Tighten screw
release pressure on pedal
For this process to work you must start at the rear pass tire, then rear driver, then pass front, then driver front.
Well alot of fluid did leak out. I took off the caliper and let it drip in a bucket. It sat like that for a couple hours. Drained about 1/4 out of the brake fluid reservoir.

So i have to do this for all 4 calipers?
That sucks lol



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post #9 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiller View Post
I thought the first torque setting was a little more. First torque is to set the bearing. I would try to apply a little more and set that rotor tighter on the spindle. That could be your problem. When I do it on my car i do it by feel, feels more then 21 footlbs
I mean the rotor is tight on the hub and such.
the chiltons manual was the one that said 21, half turn out, then 12.

It was actually alot loser when I took off the old one. As I could unscrew it with my fingers.


Hey, dumb question here and this is a totally different subject. I was going to drain my water separator out last night. I went and look for it kind of right under the driver side door. All I'm seeing is the fuel filter? The books says that the separator should have a lever on it. But I'm not seeing anything else around that region that represents a water separator. Where am i suppose to be looking for this at?



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Last edited by irishluck; 04-24-2012 at 01:28 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-24-2012, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishluck View Post
All I'm seeing is the fuel filter? The books says that the separator should have a lever on it. But I'm not seeing anything else around that region that represents a water separator. Where am i suppose to be looking for this at?
The 7.3 filter is in the engine valley.
That's the fuel pump you're seeing.

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.



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