A brake question.....

[SuperCrutyPS]

Here's my issue. I've been having a shudder when I brake. I think it's up front because the steering wheel shakes slightly while braking.

I went out today and pulled the front wheels off so I could get a look. I rotated the rotors to check the surfaces. They are flat and uniform all the way across. I didn't see any hot spots. They don't look warped. (Didn't expect them to be since they are so thick) They look good, calipers seem okay, pads look good and have plenty of pad left. Can't really see anything causing the pulsing.

I did find my left lower ball joint needs to be replaced. I pulled out on the bottom of the tire and it moves in and out. The right side had been replaced three years ago, it's fine.

Does anyone have any ideas? It don't want to just starting throwing parts at it.

[Wishihadahonda]

Could be that ball joint man. How do the hub bearings and tie rods look you would be surprised how much shudder you will get from faulty suspension components. People used to come Into brake check all the time to get their brake shudder fixed when they didn't need brakes at all they had bad suspension parts

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[NoRalPh]

The "Free Fix" I'd try first is to go over both sides of the rotors with a D/A sander (60-80grit) for a new surface and re-bed the pads to it.

Despite accepted, common knowledge, rotors really don't "warp" very often (if at All....).

Be worth a try

[SuperCrutyPS]

Originally Posted by Wishihadahonda

Could be that ball joint man. How do the hub bearings and tie rods look you would be surprised how much shudder you will get from faulty suspension components. People used to come Into brake check all the time to get their brake shudder fixed when they didn't need brakes at all they had bad suspension parts

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

I checked the tie rod ends, the pitman arm and the panhard bar/track bar thingy. Everything seemed good, nothing felt loose - This using the 'hand-grab-calibration' devices. It makes sense the ball joint could be it. The bottom of the tire moved in/out between a 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

The "Free Fix" I'd try first is to go over both sides of the rotors with a D/A sander (60-80grit) for a new surface and re-bed the pads to it.

Despite accepted, common knowledge, rotors really don't "warp" very often (if at All....).

Be worth a try

I agree - I've read the threads regarding the 'warp' factor. But since I was there I figured it wouldn't hurt to check. I hadn't heard about the 'Free Fix' thing, but as you stated, it may be worth a try.

[NoRalPh]

1/2" In/Out at 6 'o'clock?

You've gotta have something really bad going on....

Typically Ball Joints, when first failing, have slop Up/Down and only when Really shot would they move like you're talking about. I'd get under there for a better look and have somebody else move the tire. A Ball Joint, That bad, would be obvious. Otherwise I'd be thinking Wheel Brg. maybe.

Either way, with that kind of movement, I wouldn't be driving it much!

[415dad]

you have warped rotors. you cant always see hot spots either. and sanding the rotors will not work i could see it getting worse doing that. never could sand perfectly flat anyway .. just spend the money have the rotors turned and you will be fine.. IMHO..

[SuperCrutyPS]

Yeah - It is at 6. I went behind the tire. I moved it out and definitely saw the lower ball joint moving. I could be exaggerating on the 1/2". I didn't physically measure it, but it is definitely moving more than it should. I'll definitely be calling this week to see what it's going to cost me to get that done. Now that I know about it, I really do need to get it fixed!

[NoRalPh]

Originally Posted by 415dad

you have warped rotors. you cant always see hot spots either. and sanding the rotors will not work i could see it getting worse doing that. never could sand perfectly flat anyway .. just spend the money have the rotors turned and you will be fine.. IMHO..

I know you think you've seen "Warped Rotors" all your life. EVERYBODY you know says rotors can warp BUT, it's a very common fallacy. I'm sure, at one time, single plane rotors that got Really overheated, and maybe quenched somehow, warped. You only have to look at a 1-1/4" thick vented rotor to see it's virtually Impossible to move both sides, with all those shear webs (fins) and develop the "squiggle" that would constitute a "Warp"......

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

The reason cutting a rotor solves the pulse is the resurfacing it does. The reason for the pulse in the first place is the uneven grabbing of the pads to the rotor because it needs resurfacing and then re-bedding