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post #1 of 9 Old 12-15-2011, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Inner Axle Seals

Any way to put them in without using a special tool? Can I just use a hammer and tap them in carefully?

2001 F350 SRW CC 4WD LB
ZF6 w/ Southbend, 220k, DIY Intake, WW,NonEBPV Pedestal, CCV Mod, Gauges (Boost, Pyro), 2in Leveling Kit, 4" Straight MBRP, AIH Delete, 2-12" Kicker Comp's, Pioneer Amps
2001 F350 DRW EC 2WD (Rolled Over)
2000 F550 CC 2WD
Automatic, Jasper 4R100 w/Derale Pan & 6.0 Cooler, DIY Intake, AIH Delete, 4" MBRP,
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post #2 of 9 Old 12-15-2011, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Schnot View Post
Any way to put them in without using a special tool? Can I just use a hammer and tap them in carefully?
You talking about the vacuum seal that is in the knuckle?

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post #3 of 9 Old 12-15-2011, 03:42 PM
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If so, you can make a tool to drive them onto the axle and then just install the bearing to pull it into the knuckle. I recommend getting the tool though.
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post #4 of 9 Old 12-15-2011, 11:04 PM
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you'll spend just as much making the tool as you would buying it......don't ask me how I know...thanks for that link though I need to order one!
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post #5 of 9 Old 12-16-2011, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnot View Post
Any way to put them in without using a special tool? Can I just use a hammer and tap them in carefully?
By inner axle seals, I assume you are talking about the dust seals that "seal" the axle tube inboard of the U-Joints. If so, they can be pushed on with your thumbs. FYI, if you are thinking about taking it apart to replace these...don't bother. The new ones will be torn in less than a year if you use your 4wd much at all. There are a few different seals and if you mean the ones that seal in the fluid, those should be able to be tapped in with a hammer and makeshift seal installer (but I doubt that is what yu are talking about since the differential has to come out for those). If you mean the knuckle seals that seal for the locking hubs then those you need to buy or make the tool. Not sure where thatguy2010 is seeing the tool for under $20, but I made that tool for less than $20. (I did already own the grinder that was needed though). Good luck and if you clarify a bit we can get you better information.
-Aaron

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post #6 of 9 Old 12-16-2011, 09:17 PM
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Aaron, I went to ACE in Virginia and bought all the parts to make it and it was ridiculously expensive. I spent almost 40 bucks making the tool. as for this question I don't know what's causing this but my front axle shafts won't stay "supported" I guess you could say, these seals are the only thing that kept up the axles in place and when they started to go my front axle sounded like a jackhammer going down the road. I took out my front axle shafts until I got home from deployment to find the issue. I'd like to get this fixed but Idk what the hell is causing it....any oppinions? sorry to derail.
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post #7 of 9 Old 12-16-2011, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguy2010 View Post
Aaron, I went to ACE in Virginia and bought all the parts to make it and it was ridiculously expensive. I spent almost 40 bucks making the tool. as for this question I don't know what's causing this but my front axle shafts won't stay "supported" I guess you could say, these seals are the only thing that kept up the axles in place and when they started to go my front axle sounded like a jackhammer going down the road. I took out my front axle shafts until I got home from deployment to find the issue. I'd like to get this fixed but Idk what the hell is causing it....any oppinions? sorry to derail.
I hit up Tractor Supply for the pipe, cap, and floor fitting to make the tool. Guess a person would just have to research the price first in their area. I was unable to find the tool to buy for under $60 and i didnt want to wait for it to ship. As for your axles....Good news/bad news. It sounds like the needle bearing inside hub unit bearing (wheel bearing) that the axles shaft rides on is bad and/or the bearing in the locking hub for 4wd. I actually had this happen to me too so you aren't alone. In my case, the damaged needle bearing trashed the polished surface of the axles shaft that it rides on and then the locking hub bearing was overloaded and ended up trashed too. Good news is the auto parts stores here were able to get just the needle bearing so I didn't have to replace the whole unit, bad news is, if the axle shaft is scored too bad it will probably need replaced. I searched pretty extensively around here and online and believe it or not, the cheapest place to buy a stub shaft was the dealership. Still cost me $280 iirc, but at least I was able to find JUST the outer shaft. If you have more questions about t PM me and I will do the best I can to explain it.

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post #8 of 9 Old 12-17-2011, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry I guess I should have clairified. I mean to replace the inner seals that seal off the fluid from draining into the tubes. I know how to take the carrier out but I dont really want to spend the money on a tool to install them. Most write ups say to make the tool but do I really need to? Cant I just tap them in with a hammer and a piece of pipe or socket that fits the seal?

All the rest of it I already replaced but had a wheel bearing go out AGAIN on the drivers side. So now im redoing that side and figured I would replace the innner seals while im at it this time.

2001 F350 SRW CC 4WD LB
ZF6 w/ Southbend, 220k, DIY Intake, WW,NonEBPV Pedestal, CCV Mod, Gauges (Boost, Pyro), 2in Leveling Kit, 4" Straight MBRP, AIH Delete, 2-12" Kicker Comp's, Pioneer Amps
2001 F350 DRW EC 2WD (Rolled Over)
2000 F550 CC 2WD
Automatic, Jasper 4R100 w/Derale Pan & 6.0 Cooler, DIY Intake, AIH Delete, 4" MBRP,
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-17-2011, 06:24 AM
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Most part stores have loaner tools and should have the seal installer sets avalible for use.
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