Front barke rotors 2wd

[mcgoo422000]

It has now gotten time to buy rotors again . I have a warped one .
I generally use rotors till they warp or get real grooved and never turn them cause I pull a hotshot most of the time and don't think I'd get much service out of a thinner (turned) rotor .
I am considering buy them at autozone this time has anyone used these before ? I have been buying from my old shop supplier but autozone has a 2 year warranty with theirs and they are one of the chains that has stores nationwide since I drive OTR . I could get replacements just about anywhere ? What do you readers think ?
mcgoo

[NoRalPh]

I think you'd be surprised to find that if you took a sander and cleaned-up the rotor surfaces that you, in fact, do Not have a warped rotor....

Finned, two sided, rotors really can't warp and the pulsation you feel is about the pads gripping well on some of the rotor and not-so-well in another.

I've used a DA, sandblasted, or otherwise cleaned-up "warped" rotors and had them go back to working just fine with no "pulsation" at all

If they're not grooved, and you want to experiment with them, give it a try!

[mcgoo422000]

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

I think you'd be surprised to find that if you took a sander and cleaned-up the rotor surfaces that you, in fact, do Not have a warped rotor....

Finned, two sided, rotors really can't warp and the pulsation you feel is about the pads gripping well on some of the rotor and not-so-well in another.

I've used a DA, sandblasted, or otherwise cleaned-up "warped" rotors and had them go back to working just fine with no "pulsation" at all

If they're not grooved, and you want to experiment with them, give it a try!

I used the sander method on rotors before to break the glaze and queiten squealling brakes when I had a shop. Rotors will warp I had a lathe at my shop and when you chuck them up and spin them you can see the warp in ones with warpage . I sold the lathe when I closed my shop 4 years ago . Lathes are a waste of money in most cases cause most rotors are worn to thin to turn in ones I did brake jobs on . If you use a dial indicator you can turn a rotor on vehicle and see the runout . I could handle the squell but hate the steering wheel shake going downhill with 30,000 on .
mcgoo

[NoRalPh]

Originally Posted by mcgoo422000

If you use a dial indicator you can turn a rotor on vehicle and see the runout .

I have never found this to be true...

I don't know how may 100's of brake jobs I've done, how many rotors I've cut. The reason the lathe doesn't hit "true" is the "Micky Mouse" way the rotor is held.

After a while, EVERY car I saw with a pulse I tried the dial indicator run-out test on. If they were 2-sided, finned rotors I would cut just the one with the largest run-out and you know what?

Most times the pulse remained. Sure, there was run-out but, it wasn't the cause of the pulse, it was the rotor surface (and, of course, cutting it also gave it a new surface so it DID solve the problem)

I'm telling ya, modern rotor warpage is a myth... I'm sure, at one time, those crummy foreign car single disks got hot and could warp. And that was the start of the whole "rotor warp" sales pitch

I agree, who would cut a rotor today, I just replace them BUT if you really want to know, check the run-out, find the worst one and replace just it and see if was the cause (Of Course, there IS a 25% chance that that rotor could also be the "Bad Surface" one too)

MythBusters should do a test on rotors! Let's ask 'em

[CT Performance, Inc.]

You must be pulling Heavy..I'd get a BD brake and Powerslot Cyro rotors with HP pads.