1999 NP 271 Super Duty T-case Problem - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:33 PM
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1999 NP 271 Super Duty T-case Problem

Hi there. Been lurking on the site for a while, and I finally had something that I hope someone could help me with. I bought my first PSD about two months ago. Early 99 F-250, 6 Speed, Manual T-case shift, Supercab w/ short bed. I have been extremely happy with it, but ever since I bought it there has been something that has been bothering me.

There is a little bit of play/slop where the yoke comes out of the tail housing on the back on the transfer case. I can move this up a down a bit. It makes it seem like there is a bad u-joint vibration over 55. Maybe a bad bearing? The bad bearing must have messed up the seal, because some fluid is now leaking out. I looked on a diagram and there is a needle bearing in that tail housing, but I'm not sure if this would be the problem.



When looking at this diagram of the t-case, I believe part # 45 could be the bearing that is worn out. I have looked and haven't had any luck finding one to buy...or would I be better off trying to find a new tail-housing?

Has anyone dealt with this t-case before? Or had a similar issue? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:50 AM
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I had mine apart recently, not a bad job, needed some specialized tools though of you were going to do a rebuild (I bought the Rotunda kit on eBay for $100). The bearing & seal kit is pretty cheap and the TC is pretty simple inside,,,,

If you just needed bearings (not the chain or forks) you should be able to do it yourself without it being a really big deal. How many miles on your truck? Maybe it's time
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:40 PM
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The t-case has 220k on it. It doesnt seem to have anything really wrong with it beyond there is some slight slop in that output. There is not any bearing sounds, or problems shifting into 2wd or 4wd. Its not a ton of slop, but enough to draw my attention. I wish I had the time to rebuild one right now, and could afford to have my truck down for a while, but work is way to busy.

I think I may pull the tail housing off this weekend, and take a look at what is going on. I may have found a source for the needle bearing that is back there. Is that a press on fit? Or does it just slide in the tailhousing?

Could it also be possible that the nut on the yoke was not tightened enough? Maybe the previous owner didnt torque it down enough and over time worked loose...I know I have had that happen to the pinion nut on my Jeep once and destroyed the seal.
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Old 04-04-2010, 07:38 AM
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Tookmine apart and replaced shift fork pads and put back in took about 3.5 hours. But I have impacts the only tool you nEed is a big socket to take out shaft. You can get it at tractor supply for 5 bucks. The rest of the tools are just normal garage tools
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flooringit View Post
Tookmine apart and replaced shift fork pads and put back in took about 3.5 hours. But I have impacts the only tool you nEed is a big socket to take out shaft. You can get it at tractor supply for 5 bucks. The rest of the tools are just normal garage tools
I agree if all you're going to do is split the case to replace forks.... BUT to rebuild and replace all the bearings and seals, Good Luck with your "normal garage tools"

Here's what you want (and they're cheap enough, I'll be reselling mine for close to what I paid for it back on eBay ....) -> ROTUNDA FORD 271/273 NV TRANSFER CASES TOOL KIT : eBay Motors (item 200448863717 end time Apr-10-10 01:11:56 PDT)

Also, everybody should be aware that fork replacement is common because there are these plastic tabs on the end of the forks, where they contact the gear inside the TC, that wear-out quickly. This happens when a lunch box / toolbox / or ANYTHING rests against the shifter (in a manual 271) in the cab and causes pressure on those tabs to wear them prematurely.

SO, be SURE nothing is "resting" against your shifter!
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:16 AM
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I bought a tail housing needle bearing and seal from the dealership, and put it in on saturday. So far it seemed to correct the play in the output, and no more leaking. It was a really easy. Pulled the tail housing off, and the bearing was right there, replaced it, and the seal at the same time. Less vibrations when driving
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:52 AM
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My range fork pads are worn as I can barely get in into and out of 4L. What size socket did you need? I may have it in my garage tools. I don't "plan" on replacing anything else at this time. Is there any chance that you need to replace the fork itself or just the pads?

I figure I need the pads, gaskets and fresh ATF for the job and the 3.5 hours to do it.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:51 AM
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what type of wrench and what size does it take to remove drain plug and fill plug?
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