rear end spitting fluid - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-04-2009, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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rear end spitting fluid

I notice that my rear end is leaking fluid where it joins with the drive shaft is there a seal or something in there that could have gone bad? it is just leaking a little bit i can see where it splatters up under the bed its leaving just a little fluid pn the shocks and such. any help would be great.

00 f-250 lariat cc 4x4
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-04-2009, 06:58 AM
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Pinion seal or something.... Thats the name....

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post #3 of 7 Old 11-04-2009, 06:59 AM
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yes there is a seal there, if it is leaking bad enough to spin up in the bottom of the bed and get on the shocks it needs to be replaced.

SOLD... LOOKING FOR A 6.7L OR 6.4L CC SB MUST BE CLEAN!!!
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-04-2009, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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i am going to do it before I drive it again how complicating is this replacement?

00 f-250 lariat cc 4x4
Leveling Kit
Rs 9000's
Straight Piped
Afe stage II
Black Emblims and grill
Clear corners and lamps
Isspro tripple pod guages
Helo 835's on 305/55/20 cooper zeon's
Dptuner 60 80 120 140
jwvb.
6.0 tranny cooler in progress
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-04-2009, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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The diff was also fairly warm could there be a bad berring or something as well?

00 f-250 lariat cc 4x4
Leveling Kit
Rs 9000's
Straight Piped
Afe stage II
Black Emblims and grill
Clear corners and lamps
Isspro tripple pod guages
Helo 835's on 305/55/20 cooper zeon's
Dptuner 60 80 120 140
jwvb.
6.0 tranny cooler in progress
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-04-2009, 10:45 AM
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Pinion seal

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post #7 of 7 Old 11-04-2009, 11:00 AM
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Leaking pinion seals are very common on these trucks. I noticed mine was leaking recently. I did a bunch of searching on this site and came to the conclusion that replacing the pinion seal was a job better left to the pros. You've got to get the pre-load just right. Too tight and you'll ruin the bearings. Too loose and the pinion gear will move forward and back. A good mechanic should be able to knock this out in 45 minutes or less. It shouldn't run more than $150.

If you decide to do it yourself, you'll need a new pinion seal and a new crush sleeve. I think Ford also recommends using a new pinion nut. You'll also need an inch-pound beam torque wrench to set the pre-load. BTW, if you set the pre-load too tight, you have to start over again with a new crush sleeve.

The diff should be warm if you've been driving the truck. There is a bearing in there (a couple of them, actually). Once you have the pinion seal out, I think you can get to the front bearing and inspect it. Good luck with it.
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