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Carrier Bearing and U-Joints

6K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  ZMANN 
#1 ·
I'm going to be replacing these and after all the reading I've done, I still have questions for which no amount of Googling returns an acceptable answer.
1. Apparently there were two different carrier bearings used by Ford in these trucks, can someone tell me which one is in mine? It's an early '99 7.3, extended cab, 2wd.
2. Are all three U-joints the same and can anyone give me any manufacturer's part number on them?

I know that I need to mark the driveshaft. I am aware of the conflicting opinions on greasable vs. non-greasable u-joints. I don't want to pull the shaft to get part numbers from NAPA considering there are a plethora of different U-joints online at less than 30% the cost at NAPA and about 50% the cost on a carrier bearing. That could end up saving me $60 or more and saving money is always a good thing.
Thanks.
 
#3 ·
This one seems tough to figure out. All three of my u joints were the same but Ford wanted the VIN to verify that. I guess there are some trucks that have different sizes. Same with the carrier bearing. Supplied my VIN on the Tousley page and the parts guy got right back to me with part #'s. Everything showed up in just a few days and even better, it all fits! Even with their discount, I paid more than I would have for the aftermarket parts but the OEM stuff lasted 160,000 and I'd heard mixed reviews on Moog and others so figured I'd try to get another 160,000 and get some bang for the buck.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the replies. No idea on specific part #s ? I used a hammer and vise to replace the u-joints on my Camaro a couple years back, it makes for a 5 minute job per yoke. Any reason that wouldn't work here? I understand getting frustrated, I've been there with several repairs but never resorted to paying a shop unless I couldn't diagnose it or just too complex to be worth my time (tranny rebuild). This is mostly because I don't have the money to give up and pay someone else to do it. It's too bad the part identification on these trucks isn't as simple as it was on my '99 Z28.
 
#6 ·
I can do them at home but this unit is a pain to support and set in the press while using backside supports
it is one of the only items I have done for me and I still do most of the work by bringing the drive shaft to them not to mention you can't balance this at home

order from sunrise /autofair/autonation and give them the vin
you will get the right spicer bearing and won't be doing this again in a few months because the off brand carrier failed
 
#7 ·
I use a vise, put extra grease in the cubs to hold the needles in place while your lining them up before your press them in. Use a cut off wheel or oxy acetylene torch to cut the old joints out once you've removed the shaft. Get grease-able u joints and the expensive water proof grease .
 
#8 ·
i just went through this. replaced all u joints and carrier bearing. the shop press
wasnt big enough to do the carrier bearing, so i removed all of the old joints,
and took it to a driveshaft shop for joint / carrier replacement, and a balance.

all the u joints on mine ( 02 f350 cclb ) were the same size. oreilly had 3 different
sized u joints avail for my year model truck, which makes zero sense, but.. you
know..
 
#9 ·
Dropped mine of a driveline shop. Dana/Spicer parts(same as oe). Best 215 bucks i ever spent. Even balanced it.
 
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#10 ·
Multiple sizes of u-joint for a singular application is definitely part of what was tripping me up. Not sure why I didn't think of it earlier but I slid under the truck with calipers, determined the size and that all 3 are the same. Couldn't get to the bearing without dropping the shaft so I just made a guess. Placed an order with Rockauto, $31 shipped. If the bearing isn't correct, there's a Napa about 10 minutes away. $215 isn't bad but it's significantly more than I wanted to pay. Balancing shouldn't be an issue if I mark everything, right?
 
#13 ·
I marked everything and it went back together just fine. No vibration or anything. It was handy to have the wife inch the truck forward and back to easily get to all the flange bolts holding the shaft on. Really have to trust the wife though!!! :eek:hnoes:
 
#11 · (Edited)
31 bucks for three u joints? You must like doing things multiple times.

Probably 31 bucks for carrier bearing.
 
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#12 ·
Inexpensive doesn't always mean poor quality. I've used inexpensive bearings in many projects over the years and never had an issue. I'm fairly certain the cost of manufacture on factories set up to build these is quite low and most of the brand advertising is transferred to the price paid by consumers. Of course, I could be wrong but I worked at a foundry in my early twenties and the markup on our parts was significant. Time will tell, I suppose.
 
#15 ·
Tried that but it wouldn't stay put when wrenching on the hardware and I'm too lazy to keep crawling out from under the truck to put it back in gear! For that matter, I'm too lazy to keep typing th
 
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