ABS Dash Light On...Sensor Replacement?? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 09-03-2013, 08:58 AM
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Thumbs up ABS Dash Light On...Sensor Replacement??

Hi All,

I got a 1995 F350 Powerstroke and the ABS Dash Light has been on for awhile...I went on to youtube to watch how to replace the sensors and test the wiring with a AC meter...Looks like the Driverside and Passenger side will be expensive $150 for each sensor while the Rear Sensor above the axle is about $20....

Any info on if this is what I may need to do is go step by step in testing these sensors ??? Could they just be dirty or is it something with a wiring issue??

Never did these before but looks like alot of these trucks have this issue..

Any help is much appreciated by someone who has done it before...

I live in CT, so if someone is close and wouldnt mind giving me a hand potentially, shoot me a email...

Thanks to Everyone...Take Care
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Old 09-03-2013, 09:31 AM
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There are no front sensors. It's RABS only. Does the speedometer work normally?
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:23 AM
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The Speedometer is reading correctly, the tach doesnt hop around or anything...is the RABS just the one sensor on top of rear axle?
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:40 AM
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Check your brake and turn signal bulbs, including the 3rd brake light on the back of the cab. I'll look and see if I've posted the code retrieval procedures here for the RABS before. Cheers!

Added in edit: For ABS code retrieval, see this post: ABS light continually flashing

Last edited by Patrick Feeley; 09-03-2013 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Added link to post
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:12 PM
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Thumbs up Still trying to diagnose my ABS Issue

Hi All,

Just was looking over my fuses and found that I do not have a a/c compressor fuse...Going to get me one of those 15amps..but on the other note...

My emergency brake does not work .....Currently when its pressed down and I put the truck into reverse it doesnt hold it at all...Also it will not give me a (red) brake sybol on my dash either...I didnt know it this may be causing my ABS Sensor to go off...

I might try to swing down tomorrow to the auto parts place to grab a fuse and a diagnose gun to figure out if it will kick me off some codes....Other option is the Sensor above rear axle might be bad....

Any thoughts on what it could be???? Been talking with Patrick on here and doing alittle research....Rather fix it in my driveway then pay a auto shop...

Thanks to all -Chad-
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:03 PM
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You do not need to have any scanner or anything to read ABS codes (see the link in my previous post to see if there are any). Cheers!
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:37 AM
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Angry Continuing to figure out the ABS Issue.....

Well,

1. I just went through all the fuses and nothing is broken...

2. Replaced the ABS/Speedometer Sensor..ABS Light remains on..

3. The emergency (red) brake light does not illuminate on the dash, come
to find out reason why its going to the floor with no tension...Cables are r
rotted.

4. There are 2 rotted cables, 1 appears to go to both rear tires on the back
side of the drum/rotor. The other cable looks as if it is tied into the
sensor I just replaced above the rear axle.

I went through the 4x4 this morning and read the manual. The 4x4 indicator on the dash doesnt light up when engaged.

This might be a stupid question but, I jacked up the front end and was able to spin both tires freely. Each tire in the front when spinning felt like it was being held back.

I did the same process for the rear tires and they both would not spin at all. They should be able to spin like the front ones correct? I dont know or remember if I put the truck into (D) OR left it in (P)......Like I said maybe a dumb question and I am loosing my mind, but its frustrating haha...

Thanks for all the help....
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:33 AM
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Is the ABS light flashing or just on solid? Here is something to check (did you try to retrieve codes for the ABS????)

Once you get a code (if you do), post it up and we'll go from there.

Quote:
Inspection and Verification

System Pre-Check

Note:
It is important that this procedure be performed first. Failure to do so may result in incorrect diagnosis of problem, wasted time, and improper replacement of components.

The System Pre-Check is used to screen a vehicle for relatively simple diagnostic repairs, such as loose connectors, blown fuses, etc. However, the System Pre-Check is also used to prepare the vehicle for further diagnostics. In addition, warning light concerns are dealt with in this check.

Note:
The anti-lock electronic control module (2C018) is commonly referred to as a RABS I module or on later models, the RABS II module. This repair procedure is written for REAR ABS II (RABS II) systems (as opposed to REAR ABS I (RABS I) systems). The RABS II system is standard for F-150, F-250, F-350 single and dual rear wheel vehicles. In the event that you are not sure if you have a RABS I or a RABS II system in your vehicle, check the anti-lock electronic control module part number. Anti-lock electronic control module part numbers will begin with either: F3TF-2C018- or F3UF-2C018-. All other part numbers should be considered to be a RABS I anti-lock electronic control module. If you have a RABS I anti-lock electronic control module, you must refer to the repair manual for that model year vehicle.

The RABS II uses both the red BRAKE and yellow REAR ABS instrument panel warning lights to alert the driver to a system malfunction. Both lights must be working properly to assist in concern diagnosis. The steps listed below must be followed prior to beginning the RABS II diagnostic procedure.

Vehicle Setup

WARNING:
PLACE BLOCKS BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS (1007) AND IN FRONT OF THE FRONT WHEELS TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM MOVING WHILE THE SYSTEM PRE-CHECK IS BEING DONE.

For 4-wheel drive vehicles, shift into 2-wheel drive. Drive the vehicle to a level area, and place the shift lever in PARK for automatic transmissions (7003) and NEUTRAL for manual transmissions. Turn the ignition off, set the parking brake and turn on the running lamps. Place blocks behind the wheels.

Release the parking brake and continue to the System Pre-Check.

Warning Lamp Indicators

The red BRAKE warning light is constantly monitored by the anti-lock electronic control module. If the red light illuminates, the anti-lock electronic control module will disable the RABS II system and turn on the yellow RABS light. For this reason, diagnosing and resolving any base brake concerns illuminating the red BRAKE warning light will, in most cases, resolve a perceived RABS II concern.

Brake Light Self Check

The red BRAKE warning light is used to indicate a low fluid level condition or parking brake applied condition. To check this light, insert the key in the ignition switch (11572) and turn it to the START position. The light should glow in this position. If it fails to glow, go to the Symptom Chart.

Allow the key to spring back from the START position to the RUN position. At this time the BRAKE warning light should turn off. If it does not turn off, recheck the parking brake to make sure that it is fully disengaged. In the event that the BRAKE warning light remains on, go to the Symptom Chart.

Rear Anti-Lock Warning Light

The yellow REAR ABS warning light is used to indicate a malfunction and a deactivation of the RABS II system. To check this light, first follow the procedure above for Red Brake Warning Light Self-Check, and allow the key to spring back from START position to the RUN position. The yellow REAR ABS warning light should perform a self-check by glowing for approximately two seconds and then turning off. If it turns back on and does not flash, then a system concern has been detected. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics, Diagnostic Trouble Codes, Retrieving. If it fails to glow, go to the Symptom Chart.

On-Board Diagnostics

Diagnostic Trouble Codes, Retrieving

CAUTION:
Care must be taken to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to ground. Connecting the red mating connector wire to ground will result in a blown fuse.

Verify the key is in the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the black RABS II diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector has two mating halves (one of which has a black/orange wire connected to it). Disconnect the two halves.

Attach one end of a jumper wire to the black with orange stripe wire side of the diagnostic connector. Momentarily ground the other end of the jumper wire by connecting it to a good chassis ground for 1-2 seconds. Grounding this wire should start the yellow REAR ABS warning light flashing. If grounding this wire does not start the yellow REAR ABS warning light flashing, go to the Symptom Chart.

The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble Code 4. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. This code will be used later for system repair instructions. It should be written down for future use. Diagnostic trouble code 16 indicates that the anti-lock electronic control module detects normal system operation.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes, Erasing

The last step of the System Pre-Check always includes clearing the Keep-Alive Memory (KAM). To do this, simply turn off the ignition while the diagnostic connector halves are separated as described in the procedures for obtaining the diagnostic trouble code above, after which the diagnostic connector should be reassembled to provide KAM power to the anti-lock electronic control module. If at this time a valid code has been obtained, go to the appropriate pinpoint test for that code.
Cheers!

Last edited by Patrick Feeley; 09-05-2013 at 11:41 AM.
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  #9  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:42 AM
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The ABS light is solid...

When I turn over the key while its in the wait to start position it flashes on then off...Once I turn the key over and start it it comes on and stays on solid..
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  #10  
Old 09-05-2013, 03:07 PM
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^^^^^ This is with the jumper wire in the diagnostic connector, as described further above?
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