Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Madison, WI
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Shoot, I forgot one other set of bulbs to remove - the peanut-size side marker lights in the front light assemblies. VERY slim chance, but if one of those is shorted to ground it'll blow the fuse. So take them out as well.
Okay, with all the bulbs still out (you remembered the license plate lights, right?), disconnect the headlight switch. Set your meter to ohms, lowest possible resistance range, put one probe on the terminal for the brown wire (might be marked R on the connector, pretty-much in the center of the connector), other probe on a good ground. Should read "open", or infinite resistance. If it reads low or zero resistance, there's a short to ground somewhere in the parking light wiring.
If it reads "open", then connect a jumper wire between that terminal and the one for the tan/white wire (may be marked B2, below and to the right of the other one). That simulates closing the contacts for the parking light circuit on the switch. If that doesn't blow the fuse, then remove the jumper, try installing a light bulb or two (start with the side marker peanuts, for example), and put the jumper in again. If it STILL doesn't blow the fuse, and those lights light up, then it's a good sign the wiring is good. You can try putting all the lights back in, and the jumper again, and see if they all work. If they do, that indicates the headlight switch is shorting the tan/white power supply wire to ground.
'Course, one possibility is that you'll reach down and look at the headlight switch connector and find a bunch of burnt connections. That would pretty-much conclude a failed switch, and you may have to splice in a new connector.