Changing differential and transfer case oil after deep water crossing. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 07-29-2013, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Changing differential and transfer case oil after deep water crossing.

So after having to ford through some deep water (36-38") I decided that I must've gotten water where it shouldn't be, as there was about 2-3" of water in the cab after finishing the river crossing. There would've been a lot more inside if I had stopped. Point is, water got in some of the breather tubes. I would've changed fluids right then, but this was WAY backwoods. I had to drive 60 miles back home. I didn't think there was a big problem until doing some reading. I planned to change fluids when I had a day off. I noticed a vibration the other day when on the throttle at all; it disappears when I let the truck coast. All fluids must get changed!

Upon draining the transfer case, the fluid looked like a strawberry milkshake. Milky pink, with chunks (water droplets). Lots of emulsified water in there. I drained it all out, and put in new Dextron ATF fluid, as per Ford's specs. I went for a drive to get the differential oil warm again, and still have the vibration.

I just drained the rear case, which was nasty opaque sludge, but no apparent water. I did notice a bit of rust on one side of the gears, but the truck has 399,000 mi on the odometer. it's not a new truck. There's no way the rust is new. The vibration is. There is however a fair bit of wear apparent in the gears. Will post pics later.

I loosened the tranny drain plug, and got perfectly clear, like-new ATF fluid out of it. I don't even know if it has a breather tube or not , but I'm just going to top it off. There is no sign of any water at all, and it was rebuilt last summer anyway.

I can't figure out how to drain the front differential. WTF!! I have no idea what axle it is, other than that it's a 3.55 ratio. Do some have no drain plug? There's a big fill plug about halfway up, but I can't find a drain, and there's no rear cover to remove. It seems to be two, very thick halves, but the front side, where the bolts are, is connected to the steering arm, which would be a ***** to remove to say the least. Can I just shove a tube down there and use a vacuum pump to pull it out?

2007 F350 King Ranch CCLB 4x4
WVO conversion in planning


RIP 1996 F250 eclb, 4x4, 7.3L PS
Viair 444C/6g air tank on frame, Hadley air horn, Hella auxiliary reverse light, DIY WVO conversion; Efuel, dual FuelLab FPR's, 90g RDS tank, aluminum tube-in-heater hose, hotfox heated fuel pickup, copper coil-wrapped filter, 40-plate FPHE, auxiliary coolant pump, 2000lb winch-crane bolted to the frame. Ranch hand front bumper. Big winch.
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post #2 of 5 Old 07-30-2013, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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pics of the job.

Everybody likes pictures. These don't really help to identify what front axle I have, or how the hell to change the gear oil, but I thought I'd share what my 400K differential looks like. It seems it's been modified or gears replaced at some point, as there is a very non-stock looking cut mark on the piece surrounding the gearing. The gears have some rust on one side of the gears only, other side is fine, but rust appears old; not something that cropped up over a week or two. There's pitted rust on the inside of the differential cover as well. I brushed it as best I could, but not replacing it at this point. It wasn't leaking, and I need to drive the truck. I cleaned off all the old silicone, cleaned up the surface with lacquer thinner (because I had it handy), and applied black RTV silicone to the differential housing. I let it sit overnight before refilling the case.
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2007 F350 King Ranch CCLB 4x4
WVO conversion in planning


RIP 1996 F250 eclb, 4x4, 7.3L PS
Viair 444C/6g air tank on frame, Hadley air horn, Hella auxiliary reverse light, DIY WVO conversion; Efuel, dual FuelLab FPR's, 90g RDS tank, aluminum tube-in-heater hose, hotfox heated fuel pickup, copper coil-wrapped filter, 40-plate FPHE, auxiliary coolant pump, 2000lb winch-crane bolted to the frame. Ranch hand front bumper. Big winch.
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post #3 of 5 Old 07-30-2013, 08:40 AM
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You must have an F250 (and no, truck info in your sig doesn't help, since they can be turned off); if so, you have to pretty-much take the front end apart to drain the front diff.
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post #4 of 5 Old 07-30-2013, 08:52 PM
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I would fill the diffs, drive 50 miles then fill them again just to make sure. The front of your 250 is a D50 TTB, the cover is part of the axle. You will have to pull it apart or drill a drain hole.

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post #5 of 5 Old 07-31-2013, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I figured it was the TTB because of all the crap people say about the "TTB's". What a dumb design. You may be onto something on the drilling a drain hole bit. It would be fairly easy to drill and tap a drain hole, then use a magnet to get out all the metal filings. The hard part is drilling in the right place to get the tap to go all the way through.


Anyone have a picture of a disassembled D50?

2007 F350 King Ranch CCLB 4x4
WVO conversion in planning


RIP 1996 F250 eclb, 4x4, 7.3L PS
Viair 444C/6g air tank on frame, Hadley air horn, Hella auxiliary reverse light, DIY WVO conversion; Efuel, dual FuelLab FPR's, 90g RDS tank, aluminum tube-in-heater hose, hotfox heated fuel pickup, copper coil-wrapped filter, 40-plate FPHE, auxiliary coolant pump, 2000lb winch-crane bolted to the frame. Ranch hand front bumper. Big winch.
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