Batteries keep dying!

[birdco85]

Quick back story, truck is overall in good condition. About 6-8 months ago I went on a camping trip with my camper. Came home and flipped the switch to activate my electric corner jacks, did my thing, and forgot to turn the switch off. The switch activates a control box (relays), so I left the relays activated for about 2 weeks. The whole time the camper was still connected to the truck. Went out to the camper and noticed that the switch was still on, turned it off, and realized that the two truck batteries and the camper battery were dead. I have the camper wired to the truck the truck batteries without a solenoid due to having a 60 watt solar panel on the roof of the camper. So in theory, the solar panel will recharge all 3 batteries.

Well it couldn't keep up apparently and the batteries were more dead than Hostess. Jumped the truck and thought all was good. Well about another few weeks pass (I don't drive the truck much) and the batteries were dead again. Jumped again and drove it a good while to charge them. All was good for the next couple weeks probably because I drove it every couple days. About a month ago, I replaced the batteries ( I love Costco) after doing my injectors and efuel and all the fun stuff. Went out today, and they are so dead I'm getting about 4 volts and the battery.

So I did the usual, disconnected the batteries, connected my multimeter in line, and did an amp check. Im pulling about .05-.06 amps. I pulled every fuse one by one and the only thing that made it change was the dome and stereo fuse. I have a had a small Harbor Freight charger connected to it for the last couple weeks to maintain them. I did go out to the truck yesterday, didn't start it, but fixed the explorer overhead console, and my keyless entry worked fine. The voltmeter did look a little bit lower than normal when I turned the key on to check the OHC.

So, in the research I've done, it looks like there a couple things that can do it, such as the battery cables and alternator. Does anyone have any experience with this? My positive cable on the passenger side does have a small bit of corrosion on it (not much at all) and I do not get the battery light. Is there any other things that I should check, voltages of amps? Before I start dumping money into parts.

Thanks guys, this is definitely stumping me.

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[Banshee34]

[birdco85]

That was the fastest bump I've ever gotten. Only 12 minutes. Thanks! I assume you need some info in this too?

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[Banshee34]

Originally Posted by birdco85

That was the fastest bump I've ever gotten. Only 12 minutes. Thanks! I assume you need some info in this too?

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Nope... just saw it had no replies and I always try to bump stuff up like this so it gets seen (helped)!

[birdco85]

Haha thanks!

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[Micko]

I like what you have done so far, you have isolated the possible issue. Based on your science, take it to the next step. If there is an in line fuse in your radio circuit, remove it to isolate the radio, measure. Etc. Keep in mind someone may have added a circuit to the offending fuse.

[sargar]

Originally Posted by birdco85

.......... and I do not get the battery light.

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Please elobotate, you do not get the battery light when you turn the key on OR you do not get the battery light with the engine running?

Just trying to keep it simple.....the camper switch being left on killed the truck's batteries, no different than if the headlights had been left on for two weeks, right? I can't see that damaging anything else and since you didn't have a problem before the switch left on incident, I say pull both batteries and have them load tested. I'd hate for you to chase your tail because you had a defective battery(ies).

From there clean both cables and have the alternator tested again. If both batteries test good as individuals and the alternator is good then we have something silly going on.

Keep us posted.

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[birdco85]

Originally Posted by sargar

Please elobotate, you do not get the battery light when you turn the key on OR you do not get the battery light with the engine running?

The battery light does not come on when running, but turns on normally when you first turn the key. So i know its working. And correct, I did not have an issue before leaving that switch on, but I have since replaced the batteries, so if those were bad then I should have eliminated that problem. I pulled the alternator yesterday, looks like its never been replaced, says motorcraft but no rebuild sticker (not sure if they have one) the brushes look pretty bad but the little ring they ride on doesn't look worn too much. I'm gonna get it checked today, so I'll see.

I Saw another post that someone said they found out their IDM was bad and was killing their batteries, they said it was kicking their relay on and off sporadically. I did the IDM mod a long time ago, so i wonder if something in there could have gone wrong.

My wife is getting a little fed up with the truck and with sequestration around the corner for me its gonna be slow going. I did charge the batteries and let them sit for a couple days, they held 12.6 volts each. So i reconnected the batt cables and disconnected the alternator yesterday so I will see if they still have voltage in couple days.

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[sargar]

I like your last test of batteries charged and alt disconnected.

I was suggesting load testing the batteries to eliminate you having gotten a bad one from Costco, because new bad parts happen.

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[birdco85]

Oh yeah I'll do that, I'm gonna replace them anyway when the alternator is replaced, but for piece of mind..

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