woman keeps killing my batteries - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-29-2013, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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woman keeps killing my batteries

So every time i park the truck, 9 hours later it fires right up. she drove it parked it, dead in 2 hours. i jumped ran it for a half hour parked it for 8 fired right up. she drives it parked it 2 hours later dead again. i need help. 95 powerstroke needs new positive cable terminals and has two different batteries same cca brand new and new alternator. all checked out good 14.8 running. yesterday when i jumped it i was tinkering with the light toggle and my cluster stopped freaking out and i could start it afte a half hour.

SOLD: 99.5 F-250 ECLB, Zoodad mod, aih delete, 22k mod, wix 46637,16.5s wrapped with 35x12.50 BFG T/As s, ccv mod, 140v IDM, heater core ball valve mod, 324,000 miles

95 F-250 ECLB, E4OD, 3in turbo back straight piped, diy intake w/ 6637 and riffraff prefilter, cool go fast stickers, 140v idm, need new ball joints and king pins...negative camber is out of this world. 266k miles
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-29-2013, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Let me re phrase that....as i was charging it via jumper cables, it acted like it wasn't charging the cluster was just freaking out and so was the interior dome light. after a half hour of charging i decided to fiddle with the light toggle and switched to my front tank and out of no where the cluster stopped tweaking out and it fired right up

SOLD: 99.5 F-250 ECLB, Zoodad mod, aih delete, 22k mod, wix 46637,16.5s wrapped with 35x12.50 BFG T/As s, ccv mod, 140v IDM, heater core ball valve mod, 324,000 miles

95 F-250 ECLB, E4OD, 3in turbo back straight piped, diy intake w/ 6637 and riffraff prefilter, cool go fast stickers, 140v idm, need new ball joints and king pins...negative camber is out of this world. 266k miles
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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update, shes a noob and didnt put it in park. hence it didnt start. but how do you dismantle the passenger side positive cable?

SOLD: 99.5 F-250 ECLB, Zoodad mod, aih delete, 22k mod, wix 46637,16.5s wrapped with 35x12.50 BFG T/As s, ccv mod, 140v IDM, heater core ball valve mod, 324,000 miles

95 F-250 ECLB, E4OD, 3in turbo back straight piped, diy intake w/ 6637 and riffraff prefilter, cool go fast stickers, 140v idm, need new ball joints and king pins...negative camber is out of this world. 266k miles
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Tivs View Post
update, shes a noob and didnt put it in park. hence it didnt start. but how do you dismantle the passenger side positive cable?
What do you need to do?
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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its broken need to throw a new one on.

SOLD: 99.5 F-250 ECLB, Zoodad mod, aih delete, 22k mod, wix 46637,16.5s wrapped with 35x12.50 BFG T/As s, ccv mod, 140v IDM, heater core ball valve mod, 324,000 miles

95 F-250 ECLB, E4OD, 3in turbo back straight piped, diy intake w/ 6637 and riffraff prefilter, cool go fast stickers, 140v idm, need new ball joints and king pins...negative camber is out of this world. 266k miles
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 05:56 PM
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It's all one cable. So the section between the passenger-side battery and the starter is frayed/broken?
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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no the actual terminal is broke the bolt broke and split the connector. all the cables are good

SOLD: 99.5 F-250 ECLB, Zoodad mod, aih delete, 22k mod, wix 46637,16.5s wrapped with 35x12.50 BFG T/As s, ccv mod, 140v IDM, heater core ball valve mod, 324,000 miles

95 F-250 ECLB, E4OD, 3in turbo back straight piped, diy intake w/ 6637 and riffraff prefilter, cool go fast stickers, 140v idm, need new ball joints and king pins...negative camber is out of this world. 266k miles
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 06:46 PM
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Ah, different story. You _might_ get away with something like this: NAPA AUTO PARTS . Allows you to connect both the section to the starter and the section to the other battery. Cut them off right where they go into the busted terminal, strip the insulation, and you _might_ have enough length of wire to hook this up.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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no way to take it apart without cutting? maybe take a sawzall to it lol. ya i dont feel like spending 100 bucks on a new cable and still have to splice it in with the starter.

SOLD: 99.5 F-250 ECLB, Zoodad mod, aih delete, 22k mod, wix 46637,16.5s wrapped with 35x12.50 BFG T/As s, ccv mod, 140v IDM, heater core ball valve mod, 324,000 miles

95 F-250 ECLB, E4OD, 3in turbo back straight piped, diy intake w/ 6637 and riffraff prefilter, cool go fast stickers, 140v idm, need new ball joints and king pins...negative camber is out of this world. 266k miles
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-30-2013, 07:14 PM
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Not a bad idea; the terminal's shot, you may as well tear into it. I'm sure you'll find it's two separate sections of wire going into it, but yeah, if you hack apart the old terminal, you'll have more length of cable to play with.

Full replacement cable is expensive;, that's a LOT of copper. I had to get one ($60) for the IDI, since both terminals were shot and the cable itself was getting crunchy. Starter end wouldn't require any splicing; ring terminal bolts right up.
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