1995 P1211 on hard acceleration

[txoutlaw73]

So I guess it's time for me to introduce my self and ask for some help/advice. My 95 OBS is COMPLETELY STOCK and new to me, a friend of mine used it as a farm truck and said come get it one day! So I rescued it from a horrible death as a yard ornament on his farm or worse, the junk yard! It has 256k miles and is throwing three codes 0107,0603 and 1211. The one that is getting on my nerves is the 1211, I've looked at the normal EASY stuff. No oil in fuel, reservoir full.I have not pulled the VC and looked at the injectors or around their bores for leaks yet though. I've connected a manual high pressure gauge to the head. It reads around 485lbs-575lbs at idle, 1465-1590lbs at wot (no load in neutral) and that pressure remains constant suggesting no aeration in oil. I've also ran the truck with the gauge atatched while driving but the pressure has never climbed above 1650lbs before the CEL set and lost power. We also looked at ICP and IPR with a scanner today (no raod test yet). ICP confirmed above manual pressures, IPR was at 14% at Idle and 34% at WOT in neutral. It was getting late so we did not run scans while driving, however when driving it will sometimes set CEL at about 21-2300 rpms and loose power until you kill it and start over. But it will set the CEL if you accelerate hard right about 2300 rpms and looses power same as above. Correct me if I'm wrong but the HPOP pressures and IPR duty cycles are close to spec. The truck acts like it wants to run strong right up to the point it sets the CEL. I just cant get it to run hard long enough to check the pressures and duty cycles under a load.

All the reading I've done (100's of threads) leaves a lot on the table to be discussed, I even found a thread that a fella solved a similar issue on a 99, his cause was rust in the tank. Don't see how' that would set a HPOS code but it proves I've done my homework!

I'm just wondering if any of you have had a similar issue on a NON chipped truck? I know that chipped truck can throw this code due to commanded pressures being higher than the PCM likes.

Any help or advice is appreciated, kinda stumped

Jimmy

[PowerstrokinIt F250]

check the little connecter on the back of the ipr it might be loose

[txoutlaw73]

Also forgot to mention it burns clean, no smoke to mention!

[txoutlaw73]

Originally Posted by PowerstrokinIt F250

check the little connecter on the back of the ipr it might be loose

I'll check, but wouldnt that lock the duty cycle to a commanded amount? It does change per the scanner. Not tryin to be difficult, just trying to educate my brain!

[Fordman247365]

Double check the ICP for oil in the plug and for the plug itself to be set in firmly.

[Woodturner Nate]

Mine wasn't throwing a code over it, but did have oil in the ICP harness, and had WAY more power in the 2000-3000rpm range after replacing the ICP sensor. Make sure that you clean the connector with a quick drying electrical spray cleaner--mine was so clogged in oil that it took a few tries with the spray to get it all.

[txoutlaw73]

Originally Posted by Fordman247365

Double check the ICP for oil in the plug and for the plug itself to be set in firmly.

ICP is clean, no oil in the connector and it is plugged in securely. I guess I need to ohm/volt check the harness and solenoid/sensor. Then look under the VC for injectors leaking to the top around the bore or top of injector. If all of that checks out its Big Oil time. I was gonna go that route eventually anyway.

Anyone ever had the BARO codes (0107-Low reading)pop up? As I understand it per reading the Workshop manual if there is a issue with it then the PCM defaults to the MAP for altitude pressure and makes fueling correction per the Map. So is it really neccessary to spend that $100-130 for it?

[txoutlaw73]

Originally Posted by Woodturner Nate

Mine wasn't throwing a code over it, but did have oil in the ICP harness, and had WAY more power in the 2000-3000rpm range after replacing the ICP sensor. Make sure that you clean the connector with a quick drying electrical spray cleaner--mine was so clogged in oil that it took a few tries with the spray to get it all.

Its definitely worth doing just to see, beats spending money that may not need spending. Its a shame these motors have such temperamental responses to such little things. They are very durable otherwise and run really good when they are happy!

[txoutlaw73]

I changed the oil today, Delvac 15/40 and Lucas oil stabilizer, It improved the the HPOP pressure to:
At idle:
750psi at start up
580-600psi at temp

WOT in neutral:
2700psi with brief WOT flicks at about 130*
1650-1700psi at temp (but that’s the highest it would produce even when ****roached)

Took it for a spin, while temp was at 130-150* it ran pretty well, would produce and hold 2800psi and never set the CEL. But it would not pull past 3000-3100rpm.

When temp reached full operating temp, it ran ok, but wouldn’t pull more than 20000psi, would pull to 2500-2800rpm before pressure would start to fall of to 1700psi and it would set the CEL and loose power. This a major improvement from what it was doing prior to oil change.

I haven’t pulled the VC’s yet but that is a must at this point since I only found 1 half *** working glow plug and it was 10ohms resistance, the others all showed infinite! There is also oil in all the connectors at the VC. So I’m sure there is another $300 for the gaskets, UVCH’s and glow plugs.

Which brings me to another point, the PCM is not sending the negative signal to the GPR to energize it. It is always hot on the A side of the plug. I’m thinking the BARO code 0107 I got from the scanner probably has something to do with it. It functions if I remove that terminal an manually supply a ground.

It would appear that the ICP and IPR are functioning correctly, So if you guys have any more suggestions please speak up. If you think I have been a dumb ***, and missed something, say so!

[Woodturner Nate]

Check the fuse relay at the distribution box under the hood. The relay in there could be bad--I believe its a separate relay for just the glow plugs (in addition to the glow plug relay which looks like a starter solenoid). There are four or five square plastic-bodied relays that each have 5 flat blades on the bottom. Can't remember which one it is, but it should tell you in the owners manual which relays and fuses operate which components. It's worth a check, as this is a lot cheaper and easier than checking and/or re-running the ignition turn-on wiring.