No Starting Once Warmed Up - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 12-20-2012, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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No Starting Once Warmed Up

Hello, First post for this guy. But referencing yall's expertise on this site has helped us several times.

I have two 1996 7.3L powerstrokes that are used as work trucks. The issue im having is that the truck will start in the morning but will not re start once until it cools back down. Example, the guys leave the shop in the morning, stop at the gas station, then the truck will not re start.

I have changed out both batteries and checked the oil reservoir, which could not hold any more oil at all.

Any ideas from the powerstroke gurus?

Also, oil & fuel filter were just changed and both trucks are stock.

Last edited by BigDave904; 12-20-2012 at 02:58 PM. Reason: Add more info!
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post #2 of 6 Old 12-20-2012, 08:33 PM
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One of the more common "no start when warm" problems is from bad Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) o-rings. The cold, thick oil will allow enough pressure to build with bad o-rings, where the warm, thinner oil will bypass the o-rings and no allow pressure to build high enough to start. Replacing the o-rings is a good first try since it doesn't cost much for parts.

IPR O-Ring Kit (for when IPR valve replacement is not required)
(Ford) F6TZ-9C977-AA
(International) 1825806C92

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1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #3 of 6 Old 12-20-2012, 08:49 PM
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flop in a new Cam Positioning Censor give it a try. Sometimes when they get worn out the magnet loses too much strength when it gets hot to keep timing and the truck will not start. I recommend the Borg Warner from Shucks Orelie's. its like 26 dollars.

Built engine, rods, pushrods, cam, springs. Meth, turbo, injectors, fuel system, oil system. 3 disk billet, billet shafts built trans, 6.0 IC, exhaust, intake. Latter bars, gears, system, tint, HIDs. You know the typical stuff to make a 7.3 get out of its own way... dont brake.
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post #4 of 6 Old 12-21-2012, 05:46 AM
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+1 Both of the above posts are good advice.

I would try the cps first because if the new unit doesnt fix the problem then you can keep it as a spare. (always keep a spare cps and 10mm wrench in your truck).

1997 F250 7.3 PSD Auto 4x4: All Stock with multiple dents dings and scratches
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post #5 of 6 Old 01-06-2013, 01:14 PM
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IPR VALVE

My dad had the same problem on his 95 stroker when he was 6 hours from home on vacation. He drove north about 6 hours, stopped for gas, boom no start. He had it towed to local rip off dealer who said it needed a new HPOP, HOSES,GASKETS, AND ANOTHER OIL CHANGE, totaling like $1300. He let it cool down, started right back up, drove it home and parked it. I drove to Ohio from Tennessee, bought a $38 IPR o ring kit from ford. Truck was up and running in 2-3 hours, if that. It's been running strong since (6 mos ago). The valve is probably fine just needs new o rings. Really easy job.
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post #6 of 6 Old 01-06-2013, 01:28 PM
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Had the same problem on my 95, a trip to oriellys for the o rings and about an hour and a half its running like a champ.
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