BANNED by Kris
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pasadena, CA
Thanked 113 Times in 105 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
If it was a bad ground then you would not likely be getting a "click" altogether at the relay. Starters and engines have a nasty habit of stopping their rotations in the same spot. Meaning when you kill the motor the motor will usually rotate and stop with the same cylinder ready to fire as the last start. Same with the starter motor. it spins to crank the motor and when you release the key from the start position it'll usually stop it's rotation in the same position that it started in. If you removed the flex plate/fly-wheel from the motor and the stater from the starter housing you will see a lot more wear in one section of the units then anywhere else.
First things first, get a thick screw driver. Put the key in run. Using the screw driver jump the two big posts on the relay. If the truck starts every time then the issue is still on top of the motor. if it does not then the issue is at the starter under the motor.
I can think of two things happening with your starting system. Either the starter is on its way out due to burns on the stater or the starter itself needs to be removed from the truck clean the exterior and reinstall. You may just have a bad ground at the starter motor (self grounding).
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank
-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.