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Old 11-05-2012, 04:48 PM
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96 No start

Hello everyone

I bought this truck not running real cheap and hopping to get it to run. I replaced the CPS just to eliminate that first because it was cheap and quick. I am not getting any white smoke. I have a wts light and the fuse is good connected to the fuel heater that powers the computer. I got a list from Matt Rodriguez and have done most on it.

"Here you go.

No white smoke does mean no fuel but you first need to confirm that there is fuel pressure to the back of the fuel bowl (use a cheap dail tire pressure gauge, chuck it when youíre done as the tire gauge it now wasted). Next is to figure out why the IDM isnít firing. Swap relay 2 with relay 3. Nothing changed? Go to the IDM and locate pin 14 (dark green / light green) and back probe the wire. With the key in the run position you should have Battery voltage at this pin. Voltage there but no change? Make sure that that pin didnít back out of the harness and move to pin 26 (black with white stripe). Set your meter to Ohmís scale and back probe this pin. Put your meter on the back probe and the other end to chassis ground. Should see no more than .2 ohm. Good and not change? Move to the harness at the heads (two per head) and locate the Orange or Pink/Yellow (depending on which head you chose to start with and turn the key to run. Is there voltage at the heads on these wires? If no most likely a wiring harness failure between the IDM and the heads. Ohm test between the heads and the respective pins on the IDM (24 and 23). If the Ohm test was successful then likely failed IDM."

I have almost 20psi at the valve on the driver side top of the fuel bowl while it tries to crank. I have swapped relay 2 and 3 and nothing. I probed the green wire and it has power with key on. I'm not to familiar with the ohm checking but I tried and it went from reading 1 on the meter to 0 when I probed big black wire with stripe and the negative battery terminal. I then started attempting to check head wires. Are all the connections in the pigtail suppose to have voltage? I was only getting some voltage out of a couple in each pigtail. And the pigtail on the driver side front by the ac compressor was damaged and the pin in the male pigtail on the side closest to the rear of the motor was broke and not touching the pins coming out of the valve cover. Can this cause the motor not to fire? I found a repair kit on Ebay :

Valve Cover Harness Connector Repair Kit Ford 94-97 7.3L PwerStrokePart # AP0010

Can I use this to repair the broken harness or do I need the entire harness?

I figured I would start a thread so that other may benefit later when I finally figure out why this thing is not running.

Thanks
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:44 PM
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As far as the valve cover wiring for the injectors and glowplugs go:

There are 2 connectors, each with 5 pins, on each valvecover. The outermost pins on each connector are for the glowplugs. Each of those pins should measure from 0.1 - 2.0 ohms to ground (one lead on pin, the other lead to a good ground like the engine block). The middle pin on each connector is a common pin for 2 injectors. The pins just to either side of the middle pin are separate for each of those injectors. If you measure from the center pin to the pin right next to it, you are measuring the injector solenoid resistance. It should be around 2 - 3 ohms. Also if you measure from the Glowplug pins to any of the injector pins, you should not see any resistance (if there is you probably have a shorted under-valvecover harness (UVCH)). When using the meter, place the selector to the lowest ohm reading that is above the value expect to see (so if your meter has the a setting of 10 ohms, set it there for checking the GPs or solenoids).

Melted or burned external valvecover connections are either done by replacing the connector with an entire unit with with short wires already attached (commonly refered to as a "pigtail") or by rebuilding the connector shell pieces and replacing the individual pins (harness repair kit).

Melted or burned UVCHs are simply replaced. There are 2 UVCHs under each valvecover (1 UVCH for 2 injectors and 2 glowplugs).

If any connection is melted or burned (external or internal) always replace the valvecover gasket.

Also, check the oil level in the pan and also check the oil level in the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) reservoir. Cheers!
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:48 PM
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Well the pigtail was broken off not melted or burnt. And it was on the outside of the plug so that means it was for one of the glow plugs? Just wanting to get this beast running.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:48 AM
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Get it running fast

Well I was wondering. With power going to the IDM, is there anything else that can be causing the injectors not to fire besides the harness and idm at this stage? I'm just ready to get this thing started and the wife off my back about fiddling around with it. The next easy check I'm going to do it check the HPOP level when I get back to the truck. Can the main computer cause this? Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:27 AM
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Many things can cause the injectors not to fire. Not enough HP Oil Pressure, Low voltage, bad IDM, bad PCM, bad ICP, bad IPR, bad CPS (and they can be bad out of the box), etc. Is the Check Engine Light illuminated? For the five wires on a VC connection, if the pins were numbered in sequence from 1 - 5, pins 1 and 5 are for the GPs, 3 is the injector common, and pins 2 and 4 are for the individual injectors. Cheers!
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Old 11-06-2012, 02:15 PM
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check engine light

The check engine light comes on when you turn the key on briefly then goes off. Can codes be pulled while it is turning over? Or only when it is running? Would a bad hoop throw a code? Or any of the other items you listed in the previous post?

Thanks.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:37 PM
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Codes can be pulled without the engine turning over or running (although it should be constantly illuminated for a hard code). Cheers!
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:01 PM
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Smile sensors

Would a bad icp or other sensors or idm or other computers show a code? If I pulled it to Auto zone or another part store would their code reader work? To test the idm could I put a voltage light tester into the harness at the valve cover in pins 2or 4 and turn engine over and see if the light flashed when the injector is supposed to fire? Or should I just put a 12v Cummings in there and forget all this electronic stuff?
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:03 PM
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The sensors, if bad, should show a code. You need to find someone with a scanner that can read the Ford Enhanced parameters (most Auto Parts places are not able to read them). I would highly recommend against probing the injector harness as the IDM is putting out 120V DC. Cheers!
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:59 PM
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Dealership

So I should just take it to the dealership and they should be able to tell me exactly what is wrong? That would be cheaper than throwing parts at this beast right? I'll give them a call and see.
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