Help! Intermittent no start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-04-2012, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Help! Intermittent no start

Hey guys, I did a google search and didn't turn up anything. The truck is a 96 with intake and exhaust done to it nothing fancy that would cause fancy problems. The issue appears completely at random. What happens is, I turn the key (I don't usually WTS if it's over 60) and I hear the starter engage for a fraction of a second then simultaneously the lights go dim and it stops cranking. I have seen this happen on three or four occasions and after several tries it will start. On one occasion I unplugged the GP's at the valve covers and that didn' help. On another occasion I left the key on and felt the wires for heat at the batteries and the gp relay and they were cool. I do believe that this is a direct short that is glow plug related but take that with a grain of salt, any input would be greatly appreciated.

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post #2 of 8 Old 09-04-2012, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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On a side note starter is new (6 mo or less) and the iat sensor from the air box is unplugged because I don't like the ebpv operating with the straight pipe

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post #3 of 8 Old 09-04-2012, 09:17 AM
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Either the new starter is junk, or you've got a starter circuit problem. Disconnect both batteries and load test them in isolation from one another. Meanwhile, check those connections, and the connections at both battery grounds. Also check the connections at the starter and the relay on the fender.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-04-2012, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response, I will check all the connections as noted. The batteries were new in the fall also and run between 13.6 and 14.2 all the time (usually 13.7) they are 900cca each, I will load test them as well they are sears gold series. Any thoughts on a dead short that could suck that much juice and could be intermittent?

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post #5 of 8 Old 09-04-2012, 10:41 AM
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If it were a dead short on the glow plugs it will often burn the fusible link.

Look at your distribution box. There is a lug on it that feeds batt power to the box. Check for corrosion and tightness. Mine was loose, causing similar issues that you are having.
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-06-2012, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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What do people do when the battery terminals are junk. The posts on the batteries are in good shape but there was some graphite like deposits on the inside of the lead terminals. I cleaned everything up with baking soda and it cranks over lightning fast like when the batteries and starter were both new. If there is a good reliable way to replace the terminals I will. I was thinking something like this.

RAPTOR RGBTMP-4C DIGITAL BATTERY TERMINAL (1) 1/0GA /(1) 4GA /(2) 8GA INPUTS NEW | eBay

I'm hoping it's this simple but I would think I would have had the issue more frequently. I'll just keep my fingers crossed for now

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post #7 of 8 Old 09-06-2012, 08:09 AM
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i replaced mine with marine terminals and copper lugs.

works great.

cheap too.



disregard the buss bar, you can bind both lugs to a single marine terminal, works just fine, and saves wear and tear when disconnecting batteries for maintenance.

Last edited by ianstew; 09-06-2012 at 08:15 AM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 09-06-2012, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCLBpsd View Post
What do people do when the battery terminals are junk. The posts on the batteries are in good shape but there was some graphite like deposits on the inside of the lead terminals. I cleaned everything up with baking soda and it cranks over lightning fast like when the batteries and starter were both new. If there is a good reliable way to replace the terminals I will. I was thinking something like this.
If you have enough loose cable then cut the offending terminal off and weld/solder on a new one. My local parts place stocks the weld in terminals. All you need is a torch (even a small butane torch works).

Pick a terminal:

Copper Battery Terminals

Buy some slugs:

Terminal Solder Slugs

and bring the fire!

Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal
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