95 Front End Issues - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 06-02-2012, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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95 Front End Issues

I recently took my truck in for an alignment. They said they could not do an alignment because my steering gearbox was leaking (probably doesn't affect alignment), my drivers side ball joints were bad, my bearings needed to be repacked, and some of my tie rod ends were bad.

I had all that work done within the past 1.5 years or so. I got new ball joints (Moog - which I'm now learning aren't as good as I thought), new bearings, new u-joints, new steering gear (reman) and new tie rods. I cheaped on the Tie Rods so I know those could use replacing.

My question is, is that normal for ball joints to go bad in udner 2 years with 35x12.5 tires? At least one of my tires is BADLY chopped it. It makes the worst vibrating noise.

Does anyone have any write ups for repacking wheel bearings and replacing ball joints? I know I can do it all, just never have. Thanks yall,

Thanks and Gig 'Em!
White 1995 F350 CC LB 4x4 7.3 SRW
Bought 8/27/09 with 183k miles
4 Position Chip, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Bilstein 5125 Shocks, DIY Intake 6637, No cat/muffler, Carr Side Steps, Ranch Hand Front Bumper, Headache Rack, Rear Bumper

Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2009


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post #2 of 4 Old 06-02-2012, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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I also forgot to mention that at real low speeds, often with no acceleration, there is a grinding under my feet that seems like it's coming from the drivers side leaf bushing on the read end of the leaf. Has anyone else heard/felt this before?

Thanks and Gig 'Em!
White 1995 F350 CC LB 4x4 7.3 SRW
Bought 8/27/09 with 183k miles
4 Position Chip, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Bilstein 5125 Shocks, DIY Intake 6637, No cat/muffler, Carr Side Steps, Ranch Hand Front Bumper, Headache Rack, Rear Bumper

Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2009


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post #3 of 4 Old 06-04-2012, 02:17 PM
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Big tires mean LOTS of weight that the truck was not originally designed for. When I've done big tire installs I've always had good luck using ball joints and the like that came from companies like Skyjacker, Daystar, and ProComp as they know that you are putting a lot of extra stress on the steering components and make and/or sell the right parts for the job. Upgrading things like tires on the truck means that you should also upgrade the type of parts used to support these things.

Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
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-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
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post #4 of 4 Old 06-04-2012, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasAggie09 View Post
I recently took my truck in for an alignment. They said they could not do an alignment because my steering gearbox was leaking (probably doesn't affect alignment), my drivers side ball joints were bad, my bearings needed to be repacked, and some of my tie rod ends were bad.

I had all that work done within the past 1.5 years or so. I got new ball joints (Moog - which I'm now learning aren't as good as I thought), new bearings, new u-joints, new steering gear (reman) and new tie rods. I cheaped on the Tie Rods so I know those could use replacing.

My question is, is that normal for ball joints to go bad in udner 2 years with 35x12.5 tires? At least one of my tires is BADLY chopped it. It makes the worst vibrating noise.

Does anyone have any write ups for repacking wheel bearings and replacing ball joints? I know I can do it all, just never have. Thanks yall,
Sorry, I haven't figured out how to multi-quote:

Steering Box: Because we use a box and not a rack not only does the pressurized fluid from the PS pump assist in turning the wheels left and right but it also supports and tightens up the box's inner parts when the engine is running. When the engine is stopped it'll hold pressure inside of the box for a little while as long as it isn't leaking. If there is no pressure in the box supporting the guts you will have uncorrectable slop from the box making it harder to set on the alignment rack. I was taught to align a big truck with it running to keep the box pressurized and firm.

Ball Joints: Man, bigger tires means bigger footprint with more weight and rolling resistance. All this will wear stock suspension parts quicker, raise EGT's and lower MPG's. Also depends how you drive and over what terrain. Steering stabilizers are harder and can be slower to turn through but will dampen the shock to the front steering and support systems.

Tires: Your tires are pretty big but we've all seen bigger on trucks. As for them wearing on your components I'd put my money on that with the tires you have you needed (wanted) to buy new wheels. I'd also bet that the wheels (or wheel spacers) have such an + offset that this is what is putting the strain on the steering system. For these wheels to turn as well as possible with minimal rubbing the offset was pushed way out and the tires are too far outside the center line of the wheel spindles for the spindles to float. The offset is causing the tires to want to move in at the top thus binding the system.

Repacking bearings and replacing ball joints hit YouTube for video's.

Good Luck!

Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4


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