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Old 05-31-2012, 09:26 AM
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97 psd that skips on startup

Hey everybody,
I have a 97 f250 psd that skips bad on startup and blows white smoke for a good ten minutes or so.after the ten minutes it usually runs fine. I do have a little oil blowing by the seals on the turbo and in to the intake. Could this be causing this or is it something else????? Any ideas appreciated. Thanks
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:44 PM
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"Skips" like a miss or is it surging? What is the WTS light doing when you start it? Do you have an automatic/remote starter? Have you changed anything in the last year? Chip, injectors, turbo? Is your '97 a Cali truck or one of the lucky other 49? Need a little more info...
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:10 AM
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skips on startup

First of all, thanks for the reply. It skips ljke it is missing. The truck sat for a couple of yrs before i got it. I dropped tanks and cleaned them out. Changed all filters and oil. As far as i know it doesnt have a chip. Injectors and turbo are stock.it's not a cali truck. I live in sc. I havent changed hpop oil. The wts light comes on and after a second it goes out. I do have to cycle the glow plugs 3 times before it will start.
Thanks
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:11 AM
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I dont have a remote starter
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:39 AM
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Thanks for the updated info. Sorry I may not be much help for you as most of my knowledge is on Cali trucks (everything is the same except for the injection system and tuning). On a cold motor the smallest amount of oil will cause a great amount of smoke as there isn't enough "heat" to burn it all. Is the smoke a moderate blue, more a white with a blue tint, or WHITE and sweet smelling? First one is primarily hard oil trying to burn, middle is more likely the fuel itself trying to burn in a cold engine, last is coolant. If I start my engine after a cool night, 50-ish, it'll white/blue tint smoke for a bit (really bad at altitude). Wouldn't be surprised if there was a leaking injector that was pressuring down over night into the cylinder and then caused a rough start idle till it all burned off in the morning. Run some, like for a month at each fill-up, injector cleaner at will also de-varnish the fuel feed lines.

How are you seeing the oil leak from the turbo (not being an *** just trying to get as much info as possible)? Oil also gets into the intake system by way of the crankcase gas re-circulation system. Take off the intake boot between the air filter and the plastic "support" in the middle. At the bottom (inside) there is a snorkel looking thing. Is there oil
residue around this "snorkel" that goes into the turbo?

Turbos can be rebuild easily, getting them off is a *****. If you have to take it off, help yourself out (and the truck) and replace the down pipe with an aftermarket 3". Don't use an oil that isn't specifically made for a diesel as this will cause sealing, injection, and running problems as well. HPOP oil is the engines main oil that is re-purposed to run the injection system. Changing the motors oil also changes the HPOP's oil.

Hope I'm not "blowing your mind" with all the different possibilities. Lots of these things are easy fixes some are not and have the "if you're doing this, might as well do this and this at the same time".
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:28 AM
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Hey. It is a white smoke, but not sweet smelling. I did the mod for the crankcase vent and ran it out the back and plugged the pipe going to turbo. I see some oil where turbo and intake pipe are sealed or clamped together. I dont want to have to replace turbo but may have to. Are the glowplugs and injectors fairly easy to replace. I dont think it has ever been done and the truck has 189k.
Thanks
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:46 AM
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Fairly easy? Yes BUT this is one of those "do this and might as well do this and this". If this is your direction you can go:

less expensive - swap glow plugs, glowplug relay (by a Ford one I don't know why they just work more reliably keep the old but working one in your glove box), buy rebuilt stock injectors for your year ( I'm a Beans diesel guy but that's a personal preference there are a lot of rebuilders out there), I don't recommend reusing the valve cover gasket but it can be done (clean really well, dry, and add a light coat of legs for a good seal)

more expensive - glow plugs, relay, rebuilt injectors, new injector cups (and seals), new valve cover gaskets, camshaft position sensor (CPS super easy to change and of course keep the old but still working one in the glove box this part I ONLY by from International not Ford),

heehee expensive - glow plugs, relay, rebuilt stage 1's, 1.0 turbine housing, new cover gaskets, CPS, new fuel supply lines (might as well get B100 rated lines as there are always people around that make good cheap bio-diesel), new fuel pump, and a chip made for your truck and mods (off the shelf chips are junk)

When doing the work check the wiring and plugs that go to the cover gaskets these vibrate and where out the shielding causing intermittent shorts. I use only rebuilt injectors as they are made to order and brand new ones have been sitting on a shelf for who knows how long. Buy all eight at the same time. Quality builders will give you a better warranty on their rebuilds then new ones since they know who messed with them last. There are several threads on here as to how to do the injector swap and most everything else is pretty simple.

You can save money by searching the net for the individual parts (after the shipping from several places you might not be saving very much) but showing a single reliable shop a little love and buying all your stuff from them they will look after you and ship things together to save money or they may lower the price of several items to make up for shipping prices. Buying from one shop also gets you the advantage of the shop knowing that the parts you bought from them are made to work together. Calling is preferable then buying online as talking to someone will start to build a relationship with them for better deals. And the single shops love to have feed back when your done.

Injector swap is not hard but very meticulous. Study, study, study

Last edited by BigFuel; 06-01-2012 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:52 AM
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I didn't ask; is the coolant still clean as well as the oil now that you've change it? And to add to the heehee expensive, if your messing with the turbine side (or the whole turbo) of the turbo get a 3" down pipe to replace the restrictive stock one at the least. Better to replace the whole system.
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atstew42 View Post
The wts light comes on and after a second it goes out. I do have to cycle the glow plugs 3 times before it will start.
Thanks
The GPs will stay on for upwards of 90 seconds or so once the key is turned on. Cycling after the WTS light goes out means nothing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by atstew42 View Post
HI dont want to have to replace turbo but may have to. Are the glowplugs and injectors fairly easy to replace. I dont think it has ever been done and the truck has 189k.
Thanks
You don't need a turbo. The oil in the system was from the CCV. Calm down.
I think what you need to do is: Physically test the GPs and GPR for proper operation first.
Winter Operation, Hard Starting, Hissing Sound Etc...
Troubleshooting GPR & GP's - DO THIS
You could also have the block heater running for about three hours before you try cranking. If it cranks easier, that might indicate a GP issue as well.
And what oil did you use?
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atstew42 View Post
I did the mod for the crankcase vent and ran it out the back and plugged the pipe going to turbo.
Doesn't look all that good but a 3" (I think it's 3") piece of PVC pipe or exhaust tubing sprayed flat black is a good swap-out for the plastic support tube that you plugged. When you opened the intake you probably noticed that that tube pinches down inside of the housing. Swapping this out will open the intake path a bit more. There are aftermarket companies that make nice looking milled replacement pieces.
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