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post #1 of 7 Old 10-03-2007, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Question Leak

Over the last few days I've noticed my truck (95 2wd - 5sp. w/ 193k on it) leaking what appeared to be oil from the crankcase. After a closer inspection, I found the leak to be diesel fuel, and not oil. It's dripping from the dust sheild on the transmission bell housing.

Does anyone have any idea where the fuel leak might be coming from ?
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post #2 of 7 Old 10-03-2007, 09:26 AM
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Had the same problem with my 97 F-350, it's the fuel pump.
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post #3 of 7 Old 10-03-2007, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucwheat View Post
Had the same problem with my 97 F-350, it's the fuel pump.
Did you have to replace it, or is there a fix for it (O-rings, seals or etc.) ?


You'll have to forgive my ignorance. This is the first diesel I've ever owned. I could fix a gasser blind-folded (figurativly speaking), but I'm a little dumb-founded when it comes to these.
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-04-2007, 04:21 PM
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It MOST LIKELY is the fuel pump on the top backside of the motor. It could be one of the fuel lines running around that area or a leaking o-ring from the fuel bowl drain. Most likely it's the fuel pump. There are a ton of threads on here for this. I changed mine myself w/ the help of some people on here. It's a little tricky and took me about 2-3 hrs to do. First time is a *****. There is a weep hole in the bottom and what happens is the bladder starts to deteriorate and then allows fuel to escape out the weep hole. That's how it was explained to me anyway. From the factory the pump is $197, add another $400-$600 depending on who does it for labor. Hence the reason I chose to do it myself. Like I said, it's a ***** but once you do it you will be the one on here telling someone else how it's done.
Good luck,
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-04-2007, 05:18 PM
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The short cut is to NOT remove the turbo. Getting the banjo bolt off is the biggest hurdle. Use a jumbo 1 1/4" box head wrench and take your time. There are two metal gaskets there that may need to be replaced if they're damaged. Remember one on the inside and one on the outside. Prior to installing the new fuel pump, thread the banjo bolt in the pump a few times to make sure the threads match well. Then once you've got your hands down there in the valley, starting to thread the banjo bolt by hand is so much easier. Yeah, the first time is a riot , but the second time is piece of cake.

Forget the dealer price. Cheaper HERE at eBay!

1997 F-350 7.3L PSD - 326K miles - 40+K on VO - Plant Drive Kit
1984 Mercedes 300D NA - 160K miles - 10+K on VO - Custom Two Tank
Running on VO and biodiesel since May 2006
Without oil you're nowhere!

Last edited by hheynow; 10-04-2007 at 06:15 PM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 10-09-2007, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Update

Well,......... It looks like the pump is where the leak is coming from.

I've already ordered the pump, but I'd like to replace the lines on it while I'm into it. Does anyone have the proper part #'s for the hoses ?

I went to my local dealer and the prices were like 30 something for one and 40 something for the other. Neither of which they had in stock, so I told them to never mind.
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post #7 of 7 Old 10-09-2007, 04:40 PM
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not sure 'bout the hoses, but a quick note on changing the pump. You will need to heat and bend a boxend 1 1/4" wrench to reach under the turbo and get to the banjo bolt. I went and got a cheap chinese wrench so I didn't have to hurt my good one, heat it up and bend it in a vise right behind where the boxend of the wrench starts 'til you can squeeze it under the turbo to get the banjo bolt off. ALot of half turns and cussing but you can get it. ALSO, a trick is to bump the starter to help unseat the pump. Didn't work for me but I've heard that's the best way to do it. If you have to monkey the pump off it's "seat", be careful not to drop the push rod down into the motor when you jerk it off the motor. Not quite sure how you would get it out but I've heard of it happening, and it almost did to me luckily it fell right next to the hole. The new pump you won't have a problem because the pushrod is alot tighter than the old worn out one.
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