BANNED by Kris
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pasadena, CA
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Mine squeaked for several minutes or so when cold and became persistent before failure. My business went under last year and I didn't have a real job for at least year as I hoped it would last till I had some good money to swap it out. I pushed it too long and the bearing failure took out my belt, loosing power steering and braking. Amazing how much the power assist really does assist! Was able to get it to the side of the road without any damage, just scary and I'm glad that my wife wasn't driving it at the time.
Doing the flush yourself is not hard you just need two people. One to pump up the brakes and the other to bleed the system. Just the same as a bleeding the brakes after some work. Start at the farthest wheel in the system (passenger rear) and go at it till the fluid coming out is the clean fluid that went in. Constantly check and refill the brake reservoir so that new air doesn't get into the master cylinder working your way to the driver rear, passenger front, and finally driver front. It doesn't have to be tight but DO keep the lid on the reservoir as brake fluid squirts about and it'll take your paint off. DO NOT let the pedal go past half way down as this will cut the wiper seals on the inside if you go to far. Done. While we are doing a PMC get a couple gallons of power steering fluid, funnel about 12" long, and a somewhat narrow turkey baster that will fit into your power steering pump/tank. Lift and block the front of the truck so that the front tires are not on the ground. Block the rears. Start the truck and be VERY careful with the next couple steps as the trucks cooling fan is now spinning:
-Cover the BOTH of the trucks batteries with a non conducting matierial (wood or thick cloth)
-remove the power steering resevoir cap and set out of the way
-use the turkey baster and remove some fluid from the resevoir (not too much as this will allow air into the pump, the baster will hit a "metel thing" straight in from the top if you just probe in. That's the pump. Keep the fluid above this)
-use the narrow funnel to pour in some new fluid (this is where the longer funnel shines as it keeps your pour out of the wind from the fan)
-turn the wheels left and right
-repeat till the fluid comming out is about the same color going in (you wont get all the old fluid out but you did just get most of it out without exposing the system to air
-top tank to the fill line on the dipstick/cap. Done
Vacuum pump prices very by brand. $100 for real cheepies to $250 for stock replacement. Easy to replace yourself. Remove belt, three bolts hold it to the block, disconnect rubber hose, take to parts store as (this is the only "hard part" but a lot of shops will do this for you) you MUST use a pulley remover and installer to move the pulley to the new pump and to the same depth as the old one. Prying it off the old one will bend it and "tapping" it onto the new one will push the rotational shaft out of alignment of it's internal parts.
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank
-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4
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Last edited by BigFuel; 06-05-2012 at 02:14 PM.