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97 7.3L Powerstroke: No start, no fuel pressure...
Went to start this the other day and wouldn't fire up, thought it was just too cold. WTS light comes on for a few seconds and goes out, turn the key and it cranks and cranks but won't fire, no smoke out the tailpipe. While cranking the oil pressure gauge moves up, but tach shows no rpm., it might move slightly, but only periodically. I changed the cam position sensor recently(grey one). HPOP oil level shows full. After much deliberation, I figured it was the fuel lift pump again, since I had replaced it the last time I posted here, thought it might be the same issue. New pump on and truck still won't fire, fuel bowl doesn't seem to fill. Got a pressure tester and hooked up to the schraeder valve on the side of the fuel bowl, cranked it over and shows no pressure.
What do I check next, and how...? Thanks in advance, for any and all suggestions. |
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check that u have power to the selector valve when u switch from front to back.
Last edited by troykimber; 04-21-2012 at 09:49 AM. |
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Is the fuel selector valve a pump, or just a diverter? I never thought to check, presuming that it was merely a gate, always open to one tank or the other...
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The selector is two three-way valves and an electric switch. One valve is for the fuel supply, the other is for the fuel return. The switch switches which tank drives the gauge.
Have you tried switching tanks and starting it? 'Course, this would have no bearing on the tach reading. If it's producing oil pressure, but not reading properly on the tach, it sounds like you still have a CPS issue. |
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I have switched back and forth, neither of which made a difference.
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Should there be constant voltage at the plug on the selector, to one wire or another depending on which tank is selected? I don't have voltage at any wire while the key is on.
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You should have 12V at one of the red wire terminals (pin 1) with the tank switch set to REAR, and at the other red terminal (pin 6) when the switch is set to FRONT. If not, check fuse #6 (15A) in the interior fuse box.
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Thank you Sir...
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Ok, so the fuse is still good... I'll have to get back underneath it this afternoon and check those wires again.
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before you do that, change the CPS again, I also had to change the CPS sensor plug, as it went bad.....
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