Blue smoke after picking from the mechanic - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:54 PM
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Blue smoke after picking from the mechanic

I just picked up my 97 7.3, of 133k miles, from the mechanic. The right cylinder bank laid down on me and after a week of unnecessary and potently harmful messing around, the mechanic changed the IDM to make it work. First, he claimed the HPOP was bad and he replaced it (I found out just now that he did not, but he charged me for it, so that is fraud). He claimed the fuel pump was bad (which he broke and tried to charge me for). He was planing on replacing the the injectors; I told him to clean and replace O-rings, he said he did. His reason for changing the HPOP was oil in the GP (he thought I was stupid). I think very strongly that he pulled the injectors, didn't do a ring kit, allowed the oil to drain into the cylinders, replaced the injectors, and either hydro-locked it or came close to it, and that is how the oil came to be in the GP.

When I picked it up this morning We both took it for a drive. It started and idled smoothly; drove with plenty of power the motor was smooth and balanced. He said he did a compression test (I suspect because he hydro-locked it and wanted to find out if any damage was done) and the compression was right around 320 psi @ 5000 ft elevation, and all eight were close (if he is telling the truth).

I did make him write up a warranty agreement stating that he would pay for any damage that would manifest itself at a later time caused from Hydro-locking the engine. After convincing him to adjust the bill, we both signed it.

Unfortunately, about half way home it began to miss and I started to see blue smoke rolling out of the tail pipe. I am approximately, 90 miles from the mechanic and knowing he is incapable of repairing it, and I had already caught him in several lies all ready, I decided to just continue on home with it. When I pulled into the driveway it was running smooth again with no discernible lope.
After inspecting things is when I noticed the HPOP was the same old unit. At this point I decided to start looking for a lawyer before I talked to the mechanic.

Sorry for the long intro to my question; which is: would the intermittent lope and blue smoke be caused by bad injectors/o-rings, and if so how? Or is this a sign of bent rods, cracked pistons or broken rings or any other damage you can think of caused when he hydro-locked the engine. I should add the the mechanic has neither admitted to nor denied hydro-locking the engine.

Again sorry for the long back story, there is more to it, this is just the pertanant info for framing my question.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:29 PM
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Sorry to hear about your problems. If you had a bent rod or anything else that would drastically lower the compression in a cylinder you would have a white smoke condition that may go away at higher rpm's but would come back any time the engine is at idle. I would suspect a bad connection to injector to be causing the cutout. Check your fuel filter canister to see if the fuel in it is black or looks normal. Also keep an eye on your crankcase oil level to make sure it is not rising. Either of those things could mean a problem with injector o-rings.
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Old 04-03-2012, 08:29 PM
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Thanks for the tips jack.

I checked the fuel reservoir, and it is black; the oil was low by 2 qts. I see white smoke and blue smoke, but it's not constant or consistent with speed or RPM's.

My plan is to perform a compression check as soon as I receive the diesel compression gauge, to detect any damage, and do not wan't to pull the injectors before that. Do yo know if driving it in the current condition will do damage to the engine?

Andrew
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:06 PM
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As long as your crankcase oil is not being diluted by fuel i can't see where it is hurting anything but at the same time I think I would keep the driving to a minimum. If your fuel canister is black as in oil that would be where your blue smoke is coming from.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:26 AM
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I would sure call alawer about the HPOP or tell the jerk you are going to and see if he refunds your whole bill.and find a real mechanic. closer to home that someone you know, has used. sorry to here about your bad luck
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:53 AM
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I plan on keeping the driving to a minimum, if not at all, until I am able to do a compression check and take it to a reputable mechanic to inspect for internal damage depending on results of the CT.

One more question if you don't mind. Yesterday I removed the valve cover on the right side and cleaned up the wiring harness connections (which were soaked with oil) and made sure they were all making contact and clips were in place. This cleaned up the lope and the truck ran well on a test drive, but started to miss again by the time I returned home. Well I guess I have two questions actually.

Will oil in the connections cause any problems? I notice none of the connections have a rubber seal inside the valve cover.

How can I test if the injector is electronically opening and closing? My plan is, when I go back in to do the compression test, I will remove the connectors one at a time from the injectors to determine which one is missing. At that point what can I do to isolate mechanical from electrical failure?

Andrew
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:04 AM
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Yes, I have already consulted a lawyer and will take it as far as I have to. However There is a methodical process that I need to follow to determine the extent of the damages and fraud. This insures that I will not spend any more money than necessary trying to resolve the issue with the truck and recover money from the mechanic to pay for it.

I would have repaired it myself, but it broke down away from home. The actual repair by an honest and competent mechanic would have taken a total of 2 hours: that's allowing 1 1/2 hr for diagnostics, and 1/2 hr for repair plus the IDM.

Andrew
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:34 AM
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You really need to do a buzz test and a contribution test to determine the health of the injectors. Oil in the connections is completely normal but at the same time the connections need to be in good condition.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:04 AM
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you would be better off to find another shop and get them to diagnose and test and give you a written signed report. If you are going to take court action a report from a certified tech will go allot farther
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:16 AM
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Yes that is the plan; however, in order to avoid being stuck with another expensive bill I need to determine first if there is evidence of possible internal damage before taking to a third party mechanic. This I can do without additional costs to me, and if there is no concern, then I don't have to worry about trying to recover that money from the original mechanic. If it happens to go to court, then that shows a willingness on my part to resolve the issue with the least amount of cost, and that I am not just out to get the mechanic.
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