ABS light and Parking Brake light

[ekfinn]

Hey all,

My red brake warning light and ABS light came on at the same time today. I've had a bit of a bad run of luck lately with my truck and am just emotionally exhausted from the amount of money I've dumped into it to do the Dana 60 conversion (new springs and steering components and calipers and blah blah blah), then to find out that one of the mechanics at that shop was crooked and took the nearly-new plastic OEM lockers out of my Dana 60 and put the beat to crap (one side was badly rusted due to water getting into the hub) hubs from the TBB into it. I then put Warn all-metal lockers in it to eliminate the issue of the badly worn passenger side intermittently locking at highway speeds and causing roughness in the front end. Now that I finally get out to Utah, yet another issue comes up.

I checked the fluid level and it seems OK in the reservoir.

Any ideas? It just came on without warning as I was driving down the road today. If I shut her down and restart, the red light stays on, the abs light comes on the instant I roll forward or back.

I'm currently in the Roosevelt/Vernal area of Utah, and I'll drive out to SLC if it means finding a reputable independent shop over any dealer. I will never let my truck get finger f**ked by a dealership ever again.

[ekfinn]

beat on the sensor with a screwdriver... all is well... for now.

Is the fluid level sensor available only with a new master cylinder/reservoir assembly or can it be bought separately?

[fwbkent]

the part that is sticking is in the MC res. Suck the old fliud out and spray brake clean on the little float. Refill, the brake clean will evaporate.

[mazda4d]

I just had the same problem. My ABS light came on a few months back but I didn't have time to look at it. Last week, the brake light came on also and the cruise control stopped working. I had the codes pulled out at the shop and it came out to 1145 and 1155 (faulty LF and RF ABS sensor). I checked the sensor for resistance and they were none (open). I replaced the two front sensors and both lights came off and cruise is now working. It seems that the cruise uses info from the ABS sensor, I guess the left one because its 20$ more expensive than the right. In all cost me under 200$ for both + bearing seals. (takes about 2 hour per side, you have to pull out the disc/hub/bearings).
I also had another code 1158 witch is dynamic RF sensor error, but that code was cleared by the shop and didn't come back (because the sensor was out). It seems like one sensor fault (1158 or 1155) could trigger the ABS light only but another (1145 or combination of 1145+1155) would trigger both ABS and brake light. The shop was a bit confused about this so I did the work myself. So get the ABS codes out from a local shop, cost me 30$.

If any of you have just a brake light issue, there is no codes so you need to check on the following things first (as I was first inquiring the red brake warning light) : Fuses ok, tail lights (and 3rd) ok, brake light switch ok, parking brake switch ok, low fluid level switch ok, low vacuum switch ok. My ford manual tells me that if I just disconnect the switch the light should turn off.

Hope this helps, this forum has helped me a lot

By the way I have a 2000 E-350, 7.3 TD, Amb. pkg now camper.