I have a 96 7.3l turbo powerstroke. Went to start it and it started up fine, ran for about 5sec then died. Now it will only crank no start. Batteries are good, it's getting fuel to the bowl but the injectors seem to not be firing as there is no smoke when it's cranking. Things that were done within the last year are the glow plugs, gp relay, starter, batteries, fuel filter, oil is good, tuned up about a month ago, cam sensor replaced to name off the top of my head. When the key is turned on the fuel pump engages, no check engine light comes on. The wait to start light doesn't come on either which it did before it wouldn't start. All fuses are good under dash and hood. The fuel solenoid is good also. Any help with what the problem could be would be great! Thank you
The fuel pump can't engage when you turn the key to RUN; it's mechanical. There's also no fuel solenoid. Unless you or some previous owner has installed an aftermarket electric fuel system. If so, it would be wise to post it. Most electric fuel systems eliminate the stock fuel bowl, so if indeed there's an electric pump involved, a detailed description of the modifications would be helpful.
Double-check fuse #22 under the hood. Check it with a meter.
If indeed there's an electric pump, does it use the fuse #22 circuit, by any chance?
There is no stock fuel cutoff or electric fuel pump. If you're hearing anything electrical related to the fuel system when you turn the key to RUN, it's aftermarket.
Only click you could be hearing is the glow plug relay. I'd try another CPS, if you changed it for the heck of it then the current one could have gone bad. When you have a working CPS then there is no reason to change it unless it goes out. Good luck.
^^^^ Won't make a difference if there's no WTS. The OP initially has an electrical problem with main power to the PCM. There may be other issues, but that's where to start.
Did you unplug the fuel bowl heater, then replace the maxi fuse or no? Had the same issue awhile back, wire in the bowl grounded out and popped the fuse causing the truck to shut off, which just so happens to run power to the PCM.
^^^^ +1; before worrying about the PCM, TEST (don't just visually "check") fuse #22, and fuse #9, under the hood. Fuse #9 should have power at all times, and fuse #22 should have power when the key is in RUN.
So can we presume, since it has not been mentioned most recently, that there is NOT an electric fuel pump in the picture? It's important to know this because e-fuel conversions often use the circuit energized by fuse #22 to power the pump, so it may be a player here.
Ok I have not done that with the bowl. As for the pump it is the stock one. I relied at what I was talking about and it was the fuel relay that I checked.
After triple checking them and using multiple meters to check I replaced fuse 22 and that fixed it. It was showing good with two of them but glad the problem was solved. Thank you for helping and putting up with my confused self that couldn't determine what I was talking about!
This ^^^^^^ is why we carry 1-2 spares of every rating of fuse (and maxifuse), and every type/size of light bulb, in the glove box. You just never know.....
Glad to hear you're back on the road.
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