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  #1  
Old 03-20-2014, 07:08 PM
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Seeking education/experience and opinions

Hey gang,

I know this is been beat up, but I want to get some advice/opinions on what I am planning.

Set on CXRacing intercooler (from them), a T500 (from Terminator), E-Fuel conversion (from Bean's) and a TS (from Gearhead). Unless there are some better bang for the buck suggestions.

Now what I am stuck on is injectors. I can get 160/stock for $850 or 160/80 for $1250 (from Warren). Apparently, I will gain 50hp with the 160/80, so my question is getting all these together as a package will it be worth the extra $400? Even going with the stocks it will be a huge difference, which is why I am wondering.

Anybody have a similar setup and what your results have been. I am looking for reliability, drivability and MPG. It is a daily driver and I tow a 11K lb 5th wheel camper. Also will my stock clutch be fine with the 160's?

Thanks for any feedback...

Jim
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  #2  
Old 03-20-2014, 07:49 PM
Can you hear the derail??

 

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DIY IC can save serious coin, I'm $140 in everything to Intercool my Dually and I Intercooled my f250 for $180, I have no experience with gear head or warren, heard great things about gear head and cxracing IC tho
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:03 PM
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Even with the 160/stock and supporting mods you will gain way more than 50hp. I haven't upgraded my hpop or fuel pump yet but I can tell you that with the mods I have it is a completely different truck especially when towing and I usually tow over 15K in mountainous terrain. A lot of guys will tell you to go with the bigger injectors and have them detuned for towing but I can tell you that the baby swamps I have do everything I need and then some.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:03 AM
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^But I wish I had bought bigger.... OP you will be 1000's in the hole to do what I've done but sure as shti it really fun! I still tow heavy (12,000+) through mountains but I do have to watch my gauges. Since you have a '94.5 plan on your truck being down for a coupe weeks as Terminator doesn't have your HPOPs ( always be absolutely sure to tell people that you have a '94.5 as your front cover is different then a '96-03 7.3L ) in stock right now and needs your core to build from. I have the old Bean's kit, love it except the old pump they used to sell. Now it comes with a 044 so you'll be all set. It's pricier than a DIY system but it comes with a great mount for the system. Making your own is where people don't calculate their DIY kits price well. Time is money and most don't like to admit how long they researched parts, collected parts, created parts in those DIY write-ups. They have easily spent the same if not more then just buying the kit and installing it in a couple hours with no emergency parts runs.


Last edited by BigFuel; 03-21-2014 at 08:12 AM.
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  #5  
Old 03-21-2014, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFuel View Post
^But I wish I had bought bigger.... OP you will be 1000's in the hole to do what I've done but sure as shti it really fun! I still tow heavy (12,000+) through mountains but I do have to watch my gauges. Since you have a '94.5 plan on your truck being down for a coupe weeks as Terminator doesn't have your HPOPs ( always be absolutely sure to tell people that you have a '94.5 as your front cover is different then a '96-03 7.3L ) in stock right now and needs your core to build from. I have the old Bean's kit, love it except the old pump they used to sell. Now it comes with a 044 so you'll be all set. It's pricier than a DIY system but it comes with a great mount for the system. Making your own is where people don't calculate their DIY kits price well. Time is money and most don't like to admit how long they researched parts, collected parts, created parts in those DIY write-ups. They have easily spent the same if not more then just buying the kit and installing it in a couple hours with no emergency parts runs.
i agree with matt on most things except that buying a kit will save you money. i did a DIY IC and DIY e fuel and spent somewhere between 6-700 on each using high quality parts. yes it did take time. you will need to upgrade your clutch so budget for that. injectors are on you and what you want the truck to do. matt and i both tow heavy and both run 160/10 with TW tunes.

call joey at Terminator he may have the pump in stock "if"you actually talk to him, he did when i bought mine, but matt is normally on top of his sh!t

jack i think the OP was saying there is a 50 horse difference between 160/stock and 160/80s
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Old 03-21-2014, 03:18 PM
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I'm running baby swamps, D66 w/1.0 housing, swamps idm, terminator Hpop, swamps tunes. I finally started getting the stuff up for a dyi intercooler. I have no issues whats so ever (besides DOT) of hooking up to a 20k+ trailer...
My point is, take your time, do your homework. You get what you pay for and if you try and cut corners it will come back and bite you...
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  #7  
Old 03-21-2014, 04:14 PM
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All excellent info so far. I am trying not to cut corners, but not just thro money out the window either.

I did look at baby swamps, but if I am correct they are basically a 150/stock and would cost me more than the 160's, which is why I went that way. Oh and I did mean that the 80's were an extra 50hp. I am leaning towards the 160/100, which was recommended by someone else and a couple of you are running that set up without issue.

I did talk to Joey, in person once and thru emails a few times. Has had some good advice and been very helpful.

I know I could save doing the DIY mods, but I don't have the time and I would rather have the kit from one place, which SHOULD make it reliable. A DIY setup would just get me killed by my wife when we broke down in the middle of nowhere going on vacation with the camper.

Someone mentioned expecting a clutch. Am I really gonna hurt my clutch or would that depend on how I was driving it? I don't want to have to deal with the cluth if I don't have too and I definitely don't want to have to start fixing internals.

Again excellent info and thanks for your time.

Anyone else wanna throw there .02 in?

Jim
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  #8  
Old 03-21-2014, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joonbee View Post
Someone mentioned expecting a clutch. Am I really gonna hurt my clutch or would that depend on how I was driving it? I don't want to have to deal with the clutch if I don't have too and I definitely don't want to have to start fixing internals.
jim - it was me that mentioned the clutch. if you still have the DMF i would replace it anyway it is a ticking time bomb. my stock clutch starting with no extra power other than intake/exhaust and towing heavy. you can baby it around for a while, but it will go and then the wife will be mad
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2014, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by terryknight View Post
jim - it was me that mentioned the clutch. if you still have the DMF i would replace it anyway it is a ticking time bomb. my stock clutch starting with no extra power other than intake/exhaust and towing heavy. you can baby it around for a while, but it will go and then the wife will be mad
Thanks Terry. Pardon my ignorance, but what does DMF mean or stand for? Is there a way to tell if you have a stock clutch or not? I assume the truck has the stock clutch still because it only has 135k miles, but I believe the truck spent it's whole life pulling a 5th wheel trailer, because came with rails in the bed and "V" tailgate.

If not, any recommendations?

Thanks.

Jim
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  #10  
Old 03-21-2014, 07:21 PM
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DMF stands for dual mass flywheel. If you have a single piece/solid flywheel you will have a rollover noise in the trans with the clutch pedal up in neutral.
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