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Go Back   Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum > Ford Powerstroke 94-98 7.3L Forums > 94-98 7.3L Performance Parts
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 10:33 PM
PSD0389 PSD0389 is online now
Illiana Strokers
 

Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: West Lafayette, IN
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yeah both my friends who I helped put injectors in got 150 horse injectors for 300 bucks
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 10:34 PM
POWERSMOKIN POWERSMOKIN is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pleasanton, CA
Posts: 630
kinda makes you wonder why they went with HEUIs and makes you want to get a cummins
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 10:35 PM
95dieselsmoke 95dieselsmoke is offline
keep yer eye on the prize
 

Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Lake Tapps, Wa.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSD0389 View Post
yeah no kidding the whole hydro locking of the engine is what is really scaring me, it seems like the injectors on the cummins I helped out with were so much easier, there was no worrying about oil in the cylinders
yep, when me and my buddy did his on his 12 valve it was pretty straight forward. and man, i am so jealous of the price of their injectors
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 10:53 PM
TxPSD9673 TxPSD9673 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Houston, TX
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seriously though thats why after mine goes ill be lookin for a standard 2500 12v, call me a traitor but man are they cheap to get serious power!
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  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 10:57 PM
PSD0389 PSD0389 is online now
Illiana Strokers
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxPSD9673 View Post
seriously though thats why after mine goes ill be lookin for a standard 2500 12v, call me a traitor but man are they cheap to get serious power!
Hey dont worry Im kinda thinkin about going that route too, Id really like a powerful powerstroke and a powerful fummins the best of both worlds

And I PMed Maintain and Pipelayer Im hoping they can answer all my million questions since I know how knowledgable both of these guys are with this stuff
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:16 PM
TxPSD9673 TxPSD9673 is offline
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ya well maybe way down the road i might just transplant a 12v into mine.... might be a better way to go bc i will have a VERY hard time parting with my truck when the time comes
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:16 PM
TxPSD9673 TxPSD9673 is offline
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that reminds me they got a whole company for that i think its destroked or somethin
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2008, 05:17 AM
pipelayerjdh pipelayerjdh is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Starr, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSD0389 View Post
Hey guys I got the funds so Im gonna do some stage 1 injectors in my truck from DIY injectors. Ive helped do injectors in cummins before but never a powerstroke and was looking over the instructions and had a couple questions I was hoping could be answered. Hopefully these dont sound like dumb questions. I noticed the HPOP reservoir and crankcase should be drained. where is the HPOP and crankcase drain located?

Also I know you need to remove the oil galley plugs and it says one of the plugs on the outside of the valve covers on the oil rail should be removed for air to go in, where is that located?

I noticed also to use a large syringe and tubing to go down the injector bore and into the cylinder and remove all the fluid then crank the engine a couple times after to remove the rest. How do I hand crank the engine? and will that just push the rest of the fluid out the bore and I clean it up with a lint free towel?

I also noticed that with the glow plugs out and injectors back in I should turn the engine over to get the rest of the fluids out of the cylinder. Do I hook the wire harnesses back up to the injectors then hook up the VC gasket to the harness running to the solenoid before doing this?

Also with cranking the engine as said above do I leave the oil galley plugs out as well and replace them once oil is coming out of them. Then put the valve covers back on and turn it over?

Im sorry for all the questions Im just trying to get it all straightened out, thanks for the help


I used my handy-dandy hanes manual for injector removal tips. They are very vice to have around.

Remove the valve covers and find the galley plugs. Let the oil drain before removing any injectors.

The syringe is a good idea. After installing the injectors, replace the galley plugs, remove the glow plugs and crank the engine over a few times to blow the oil out. I shorted the starter relay to spin the engine without it fueling.


This is all I did when I did mine, but many people have other tips and hints also.

Good luck and enjoy your new injectors!
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2008, 07:00 AM
Neal 97 250 Neal 97 250 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSD0389 View Post
Hey guys I got the funds so Im gonna do some stage 1 injectors in my truck from DIY injectors. Ive helped do injectors in cummins before but never a powerstroke and was looking over the instructions and had a couple questions I was hoping could be answered. Hopefully these dont sound like dumb questions. I noticed the HPOP reservoir and crankcase should be drained. where is the HPOP and crankcase drain located?

You don't necessarily need to drain the oil from the engine crankcase. You will however need to drain the oil from the HPOP reservoir and the oil galley rails in the head. I have seen this done using a small tygon tubing mounted in a bucket with a lid on it then use a vacuum on the bucket to create vacuum on the tygon line. I used a small pump shaped like a football that has connactions on each side. Most outboard boats have a similiar one on the fuel line to pump fuel to the motor. It was slow but effective. The HPOP reservoir is on the top/front of the engine in front of the fuel bowl. It has an allen wrench plug in the top of it. Inside of it is the gear that turns the HPOP that is mounted to the back of the reservoir inthe valley. Suck as much of the oil out of there as possible. A large syringe or turkey baster with a tygon line on the end of it also works.

Also I know you need to remove the oil galley plugs and it says one of the plugs on the outside of the valve covers on the oil rail should be removed for air to go in, where is that located?

Remove the valve cover and remove the oil galley plugs to drain the oil from the galley lines under the VC. I removed both. You can also remove one of the plugs on the top/inside of the head to allow air to in. I removed my ICP on the front/top of the drivers side of the head. It is plugged into one of these holes.

I noticed also to use a large syringe and tubing to go down the injector bore and into the cylinder and remove all the fluid then crank the engine a couple times after to remove the rest. How do I hand crank the engine? and will that just push the rest of the fluid out the bore and I clean it up with a lint free towel?

I used my handy hand pump but a baster with a hose on it will work fine. Suck out as much oi and fuel out of each cylinder you can thru the injector cup. Now install the injectors. Now fill the galley plugs on the outside of the VC with oil till it drains back out the holes inside the VC then plug them all up with all air removed. Be sure you have the GP's removed at this time. Then you can place the VC back on the engine with atleast 2-4 bolts in it. (trust me you need something to hold that VC on there). Hand tight is fine. You do not need to hook up any wires yet. Then spin the motor over with the starter. This will pump any oil/fuel out that you missed. Now remove the VC and install the GP's

I also noticed that with the glow plugs out and injectors back in I should turn the engine over to get the rest of the fluids out of the cylinder. Do I hook the wire harnesses back up to the injectors then hook up the VC gasket to the harness running to the solenoid before doing this?

See above ^

Also with cranking the engine as said above do I leave the oil galley plugs out as well and replace them once oil is coming out of them. Then put the valve covers back on and turn it over?

Do not leave the galley plugs out when cranking. That will only make a mess and pump more oil in there. See above^

Im sorry for all the questions Im just trying to get it all straightened out, thanks for the help
No problem with all the questions. Ask away. I think I may have some of my injector pics in my thread. This is not a very hard job at all and should not be any reason to be afraid of doing this. If you can change a spark plug and change your oil you will be fine.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2008, 07:24 AM
Maintain Maintain is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
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Pop valve cover off. Remove oil galley plugs. Remove under valve cover harness. Repeat on other side of motor.


By this time the oil has drained out so go ahead and pop the injectors out. Just the oil deflector and bottom hold down bolt is all you need to get out. Remove the glow plugs as well. Rebuild the injectors and put them back in as the video states. Once that's done leave the glow plugs out and do not hook up the injectors and you can purge the cylinders by cranking it over a few times. Should only get a mist out of the glow plug hole. When that's done finish everything up and start it. You can start it with the valve covers off and I recommend it since I had a glow plug wire short out and if I didn't notice it then it would have taken out the whole UVCH instead of just the glow plugs and then my truck would have been down longer!
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