Banks intercooler install ? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-24-2013, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Banks intercooler install ?

Hey I am getting ready to dig in to install my banks intercooler. I was wondering if anyone has some completed install pics of the cuts to the radiator support and numerous pics from different angles. I could use some helpful advice or tips during the process. And I was also wondering if there are some short cuts. Thanks guys!

96 7.3 F350, 4x4, 5 speed, 6 inch skyjacker lift, 35 12.50 M/T Baja Atz, custom TW 6 pos, Banks Intercooler, BDP experimental fuel system, banks double shot water meth, Chromoly Push Rods, Swamps IDM Mod, 2nd Gen Wicked Wheel, Stage II AFE cold air intake, Down Piped 5 inch Diamond Eye exhaust, Gauges, ladder bars, upgrades drives lines yokes, on board air system, triple trumpet train horns, smoked head light and taillight housings, and 55watt HID kit!!
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post #2 of 11 Old 10-24-2013, 11:27 AM
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I don't have any pictures of mine right now but if you print this out it includes the templates at the end that show you how much is needed to be cut from the core support.

Banks IC install sheet

-install the boots to the IC first, not the pipes

- be mindful of how you position your clamps. Sucks to install everything and then go for final torque and the clamp would be a lot easier to get to if it were flipped

-Banks doesn't say to (I feel they compensate for this in their tuning) but move the MAP line to the boost port on the hot pipe and plug the old MAP port.

-I didn't need to cut my hood latch support like it says in the instructions but noticed after I had cut it. Try to assemble/mock first before cutting. Makes for a stronger latch support.

-both of my pipes needed to be cut down to fit right

-be very careful when bending the A/C line and the PS line to fit the hot side pipe. Use a piece of 5/8" ID rubber hose ziptied over the A/C lines to prevent rubbing

-cutting with a fine toothed saws-all is fine....but so is using a torch

-it's not very often that you have the front end apart. Do consider replacing the LPOP, water pump, and trans cooler (if you have a Auto) at the same time. For that matter look at your headlights and consider that this is the time to upgrade/replace them. Fix leaks while you have easy access

-have four of these in the correct sizes of the two Rad hoses and the two Auto cooler lines: Hose Pinch Pliers

-getting the stone guard off the front end requires about 2 feet of extensions of you go at it from the wheel well

- I installed mine at the same time as the Banks 1.0 housing and Banks exhaust so the whole install took 2 days

............that's all I can think of at the moment. Good Luck!

Matt
-'97 Mini Monster
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-'15 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal

Last edited by BigFuel; 10-24-2013 at 12:45 PM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 10-24-2013, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Wow that is awesome! If u think of anything else lmk!

96 7.3 F350, 4x4, 5 speed, 6 inch skyjacker lift, 35 12.50 M/T Baja Atz, custom TW 6 pos, Banks Intercooler, BDP experimental fuel system, banks double shot water meth, Chromoly Push Rods, Swamps IDM Mod, 2nd Gen Wicked Wheel, Stage II AFE cold air intake, Down Piped 5 inch Diamond Eye exhaust, Gauges, ladder bars, upgrades drives lines yokes, on board air system, triple trumpet train horns, smoked head light and taillight housings, and 55watt HID kit!!
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post #4 of 11 Old 11-06-2013, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone here have a banks IC? I was wondering if your boost gauge stopped fluttering when u moved it from the map line to the port on driver side boost tube? I almost have my truck done and was jw if anyone had experience with it.

96 7.3 F350, 4x4, 5 speed, 6 inch skyjacker lift, 35 12.50 M/T Baja Atz, custom TW 6 pos, Banks Intercooler, BDP experimental fuel system, banks double shot water meth, Chromoly Push Rods, Swamps IDM Mod, 2nd Gen Wicked Wheel, Stage II AFE cold air intake, Down Piped 5 inch Diamond Eye exhaust, Gauges, ladder bars, upgrades drives lines yokes, on board air system, triple trumpet train horns, smoked head light and taillight housings, and 55watt HID kit!!
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post #5 of 11 Old 11-06-2013, 06:04 PM
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Boost gauge on mine has never fluttered at either port.

Matt
-'97 Mini Monster
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-'15 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-06-2013, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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Mine has bad, once I hit 15 pounds she jumps around

96 7.3 F350, 4x4, 5 speed, 6 inch skyjacker lift, 35 12.50 M/T Baja Atz, custom TW 6 pos, Banks Intercooler, BDP experimental fuel system, banks double shot water meth, Chromoly Push Rods, Swamps IDM Mod, 2nd Gen Wicked Wheel, Stage II AFE cold air intake, Down Piped 5 inch Diamond Eye exhaust, Gauges, ladder bars, upgrades drives lines yokes, on board air system, triple trumpet train horns, smoked head light and taillight housings, and 55watt HID kit!!
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-07-2013, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFuel View Post
I don't have any pictures of mine right now but if you print this out it includes the templates at the end that show you how much is needed to be cut from the core support.

Banks IC install sheet

-install the boots to the IC first, not the pipes

- be mindful of how you position your clamps. Sucks to install everything and then go for final torque and the clamp would be a lot easier to get to if it were flipped

-Banks doesn't say to (I feel they compensate for this in their tuning) but move the MAP line to the boost port on the hot pipe and plug the old MAP port.

-I didn't need to cut my hood latch support like it says in the instructions but noticed after I had cut it. Try to assemble/mock first before cutting. Makes for a stronger latch support.

-both of my pipes needed to be cut down to fit right

-be very careful when bending the A/C line and the PS line to fit the hot side pipe. Use a piece of 5/8" ID rubber hose ziptied over the A/C lines to prevent rubbing

-cutting with a fine toothed saws-all is fine....but so is using a torch

-it's not very often that you have the front end apart. Do consider replacing the LPOP, water pump, and trans cooler (if you have a Auto) at the same time. For that matter look at your headlights and consider that this is the time to upgrade/replace them. Fix leaks while you have easy access

-have four of these in the correct sizes of the two Rad hoses and the two Auto cooler lines: Hose Pinch Pliers

-getting the stone guard off the front end requires about 2 feet of extensions of you go at it from the wheel well

- I installed mine at the same time as the Banks 1.0 housing and Banks exhaust so the whole install took 2 days

............that's all I can think of at the moment. Good Luck!
I didn't see that the hood latch needed to be cut in the instructions? Maybe I missed that. I'm putting mine here in a few weeks. I know the header panel needs trimmed.
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-07-2013, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Just got it done. Did not need to adjust pipes. Put boots on the IC first then attach pipes then attach the intake pipes to motor and pipe that exits turbo. But make sure u have the bolts to intake mounted just not tightened.mit is much easier to put pipes in boots then attack the pipes by turbo later. Also u have to mess with the clamps by the intercooler and pipes. E sketch u get from banks is pretty accurate but u have to move and pry the intercooler and pipes til get her set up right. When I moved my boost line from map to hot side she did not bounce near ax much.mall went well. Lmk if I can help anyone!

96 7.3 F350, 4x4, 5 speed, 6 inch skyjacker lift, 35 12.50 M/T Baja Atz, custom TW 6 pos, Banks Intercooler, BDP experimental fuel system, banks double shot water meth, Chromoly Push Rods, Swamps IDM Mod, 2nd Gen Wicked Wheel, Stage II AFE cold air intake, Down Piped 5 inch Diamond Eye exhaust, Gauges, ladder bars, upgrades drives lines yokes, on board air system, triple trumpet train horns, smoked head light and taillight housings, and 55watt HID kit!!
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-07-2013, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFuel View Post
...cut my hood latch support like it says in the instructions.....makes for a stronger latch support.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Got4wd View Post
I didn't see that the hood latch needed to be cut in the instructions? Maybe I missed that. I'm putting mine here in a few weeks. I know the header panel needs trimmed.
Page 15 Fig. 14 where it says "remove this portion". That center post in the picture is the what supports the hood latch. In the end I didn't need to cut out those two lower sections but I had before mocking things back together. Oh well.

Matt
-'97 Mini Monster
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-'15 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal

Last edited by BigFuel; 11-07-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-07-2013, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFuel View Post
Page 15 Fig. 14 where it says "remove this portion". That center post in the picture is the what supports the hood latch. In the end I didn't need to cut out those two lower sections but I had before mocking things back together. Oh well.
Maybe I'm not seeing something here or the wording between us is different. The hood latch is connected to the core support and not the header panel. The hood latch with the banks kit shoud be fine. You pointed out out the lower header panel needs cut in the instructions but your saying it doesn't need to be?

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