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Downpipe install
hey guys my MBRP 3" 2-piece downpipe is on its way. I picked it up on eBay this morning for $85 total which sounds like a really good deal. Anyway i heard they were aggrevating to get installed and I need to know what all you have to do to get the old one out and the new one in.
I still have the stock cat and muffler until i order a delete pipe(s), but I was wondering if the turbo will be louder inside the cab with just the dp. Of course i will get rid of the cat but i was wondering how it'll be sounding until i do that. |
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I got mine from ITP it is a two piece. I ended up taking a bar and prying the firewall back and I think I shoved it down from the top. Took some cussin' but it went. I got the cat delete pipe at the same time while I was down there. Not too bad of a job. I hear my exhaust more w/ the passenger side window down, but to be honest I don't hear the turbo all that much. Definitely not as much as a newer 7.3 |
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well i do alot of obs.well its a chore.well first i spray the two bolts that hold the old down pipe and cat together.then I unbolt it and then I unbolt the V clamp to turbo.then I push the dp as far as it well go.then I will cut from the bottom as much as I can. then I push it back up and cut the 90 off the rest of dp and it falls under the truck.then as its out I sweep all the shavings up and then go to work on fire wall. the edge that is a 90 right by bell housing and up pipes.need to be cut and tab be bent back.I try to hammer it alittle.but dont want to hit up pipes,trans ,fuel line and anything else.then i see if it well fit. I check if i got 1 inch clearance all the way around the downpipe by the 90 degree bend and bolt it up.what i do to the cat is knock out the honey cone out the cat and put it back on.its some work but worth it.I would use safety wear.I think this is what i do when i do a dp? |
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I'll typically unbolt the down pipe from the top and bottom. Then useing a strap on the bottom to hold the down pipe as high up as possible I'll cut it as low as I can from the top. Then it should drop out the bottom. A port-a-power works best to bend the firewall but if you don't have one just use a 2X4 to bend the firewall. I don't ever cut the firewall at all because this will open the metal up to the elements and make it more prone to rust. The firewall takes some working but it'll go. Slide the upper portion in from the top and hook the V-band clamp to it loosely. Then attach the bottom and position so that it has clearance all the way around and tighten the V-band clamp at the top first then the joint clamp in the middle then the bottom bolts last.
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To help get the new pipe in I took a jack and lifted the truck on the passenger side vial the bolt that attaches the cab to the frame. That way you actually lift the cab a little since the rubber will give some and that gives you more room to put the pipe in. It needs more room to be put in than it needs once it is in.
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