Billet Wheel ? QuickSpool Housing ? OR Both ? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Billet Wheel ? QuickSpool Housing ? OR Both ?

iv done some searching and cant find a answer and figured my post would get lost/buried in the 50+ pages of the WW2 thread.

i will be removing the turbo and deleting the EBP flapper and welding the pedistal and was thinking of doing both at the same time while it was off. i havent seen anyone that has done it and when i have seen the question come up on other forums people just say its a waste.

but i do see alot of super duty guys just running the Billet/WW2 in stock turbos (.84 A/R) and pleased with results?

so if WW2 can stay efficient on a .84 at WOT/redline then on our setups it should be able to take advantage of a 1.0 A/R vs the factory 1.15

anyone running this setup or have any more insight please feel free to comment.


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post #2 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 01:15 PM
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why go down in size? we want more cfm not less, sure it would spool faster but worse for flow/hp/egt. If I'm incorrect please enmighten I always love to learn

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post #3 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 02:46 PM
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why go down in size? we want more cfm not less, sure it would spool faster but worse for flow/hp/egt. If I'm incorrect please enmighten I always love to learn
yes and no. the smaller housing changes the RPMs where the turbo is efficient. in my setup i am running a D66 with a WW2 (a billet wheel) and a smaller 1.0 housing. when i was running the orginial 1.15 housing boost was low, and EGTs high where i did the majority of my driving. the turbo wouldn't light until 21-2200 RPMs which is too high for a daily driver/tow rig. switching to a smaller housing creates more boost lower in the RPM range at 13-1400. and more boost means more air means lower EGTs and more air means less smoke and since i want to build boost and have boost where i normally drive 1200-2500 RPMs it was a wise move to swap. granted at high RPMs the turbo runs out of its efficiency range and falls on it's face around 31-3200. and drive pressures get really out of control, but the engine never sees those speeds.

94.5 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5 speed 4.10 276000 plus miles

97 F350 Crew Cab LB 4x4 5 speed 3.55 320000 plus miles (parts truck)



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post #4 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 07:15 PM
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That's what I think I need with my WW2, a 1.0 housing.

How much of a pain is it to swap housings?

I am original owner of 97 Extended Cab 4x4 with 86,000 miles, Unlimited Diesel 175/30 Stage 1.5 Injectors, ATS Intercooler, Tony Wildman 6 Position Chip, 4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Exhaust, Stealth SPR1 HPOP, Wicked Wheel 2, Hypermax Combo Boost/EGT Gauge, DIY Intake, FPR Mod, CCV Mod, IDM Mod, 203 degree T Stat, Stainless Steel High Pressure Crossover Line, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, 40,000 lb. Trucool Max Transmission Cooler. Next up a Bean's D-66, electric fuel, torque converter and a valve body.
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post #5 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 07:20 PM
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Do you have larger injectors? I didn't get any increase with my WW2 and stock turbo and injectors.

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post #6 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 07:50 PM
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Yes, I have 175/30 injectors and the WW2 is great in the upper RPMs where I never spend any time unless I am hotrodding.

I am original owner of 97 Extended Cab 4x4 with 86,000 miles, Unlimited Diesel 175/30 Stage 1.5 Injectors, ATS Intercooler, Tony Wildman 6 Position Chip, 4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Exhaust, Stealth SPR1 HPOP, Wicked Wheel 2, Hypermax Combo Boost/EGT Gauge, DIY Intake, FPR Mod, CCV Mod, IDM Mod, 203 degree T Stat, Stainless Steel High Pressure Crossover Line, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, 40,000 lb. Trucool Max Transmission Cooler. Next up a Bean's D-66, electric fuel, torque converter and a valve body.
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post #7 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostbite View Post
That's what I think I need with my WW2, a 1.0 housing.

How much of a pain is it to swap housings?
Once you pull the turbo, it is only seven more bolts. If you're doing the swap on your stock turbo, your low miles should make it easier.

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post #8 of 17 Old 09-24-2013, 08:04 PM
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Make sure you order new bolts with the housing, too.

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post #9 of 17 Old 09-25-2013, 05:41 AM
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Thanks guys! Is a 1.0 housing the best bet for me to move my power down where it is more usable?

Are my 175/30 injectors too large and creating too much heat to dissipate with a 1.00 housing?

Would I be better off with a D-66, or a D-66 with a 1.0 housing?

I am original owner of 97 Extended Cab 4x4 with 86,000 miles, Unlimited Diesel 175/30 Stage 1.5 Injectors, ATS Intercooler, Tony Wildman 6 Position Chip, 4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Exhaust, Stealth SPR1 HPOP, Wicked Wheel 2, Hypermax Combo Boost/EGT Gauge, DIY Intake, FPR Mod, CCV Mod, IDM Mod, 203 degree T Stat, Stainless Steel High Pressure Crossover Line, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, 40,000 lb. Trucool Max Transmission Cooler. Next up a Bean's D-66, electric fuel, torque converter and a valve body.
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-25-2013, 06:01 AM
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try it and find out. tuning is key. I ran 160/100s for 12K miles on a stock setup and loved it, however i had them detuned. i would think you would be fine with a 1.0 housing but that's up to you.

how is the WW2 compared to the stock wheel in your setup?

94.5 F250 Reg Cab 4x4 5 speed 4.10 276000 plus miles

97 F350 Crew Cab LB 4x4 5 speed 3.55 320000 plus miles (parts truck)



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