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Old 05-09-2008, 03:59 PM
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Beans D66 and EGT's

With the modifications in my sig I am obviously fighting pretty high EGT's. I was curious to know how much the BDP D66 lowers EGT's? Anyone with a similar setup? Also keep throwing code that my HPOP is out of range when I really mat it. It's a new 17* pump and I rebuilt the IPR. Any help there?
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:16 AM
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put back on your stock housing and you will get more air..cheap. Even with a 17* pump its possible to run out of HPO.
D66 will flow more air than a H2e so you should't have egts problems if you keep it under boost.

How high are your temps? Whats your boost at those temps?

Cary
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Old 05-12-2008, 06:41 AM
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Thanks for the info. Here's the story. I was pulling my gooseneck horse trailer empty the other day when my buddy who happened to be driving an 06 Dodge empty with no trailer got a little lippy on the phone. Something about me keeping up. At the next light the race was on - funny thing he couldn't leave the OBS pulling the trailer. I was so busy driving that I didn't notice the Gauge. My co-pilot suggested I let out as my gauge was buried at 1500* for at least 10-15 seconds. I won the bragging rights but lost some boost after the little racing incident. Before it was 30# and would spike to 33# when it shifted. Now I max out at 25#. Not sure what I hurt?

To answer the how high question - Empty WOT it will get to 1400 - 1500 fairly quickly. Towing the horses in the hills it will easily get to 1400.

Do you lose much going back to the stock housing performance wise?
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:00 AM
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Bean can tell you how much more air you will get buy going back to the stock 1.1. It may spool a little slower but it will have more top end cfm.

I'd talk to Bean about fuel..you could be losing pressure.

Check your Boots and ckeck the turbo shaft play.

Cary
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:13 PM
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I would go back to the 1.15 housing. My EGT's are pretty manageable with it and stage 1's.
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Old 05-15-2008, 06:26 PM
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No trying to hijack this thread but......
What is your egt's normal driving and on exteme I'm looking to get Stage 1's and I rarely tow. How well does you truck run with the 1.0 housing and Stage 1's? I have very similar mods and am interested in finding out if they will work well for me.
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Old 09-05-2008, 12:08 PM
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Found My Lost Boost

Well it's been several months since I first asked about the loss of boost and I found it today. Blown gasket on the up-pipe. Obviously going to replace that one. QUESTION IS - does it make since to replace everything from the exhaust manifolds to the down pipe all at once or leave the exhaust manifolds alone as I have never had a problem with them?
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Old 09-05-2008, 03:51 PM
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If I'm not mistaken the donut gasket you're talkin' about that's blown is the only gasket from the heads up to the turbo. everything else is flush mounted....Correct me if I'm wrong. I've drank beer lately
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Old 09-06-2008, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caryt View Post
put back on your stock housing and you will get more air..cheap.
Can you please explain how slowing the turbo down get's you MORE air?

In actuality you will get LESS air by installing a larger turbine housing. It slows the turbo down so it doesn't pump as much air. It will reduce some drive pressure because the housing is larger and allows more flow through the exhaust but as I said at the same time it slows the turbo down so that it will not start to build boost as soon and it will not make as much boost on the top end. If you constantly overboost the turbo on the top end it will help to keep the max boost under control and help to keep your drive pressures from getting to high if you are making to much power with to big of injectors.


Quote:
Originally Posted by caryt View Post
D66 will flow more air than a H2e so you should't have egts problems if you keep it under boost.
I keep hearing this but have yet to see any proof of it. That statement in itself is missleading and not complete. How much air does each flow at a given pressure ratio or at a given efficiency? Also which turbo is durable and capable of being pushed to a much higher pressure ratio (boost level) without destroying itself? For the latter would definitely be the H2E.
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Old 09-13-2008, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtspowerstroke View Post
Can you please explain how slowing the turbo down get's you MORE air?

In actuality you will get LESS air by installing a larger turbine housing. It slows the turbo down so it doesn't pump as much air. It will reduce some drive pressure because the housing is larger and allows more flow through the exhaust but as I said at the same time it slows the turbo down so that it will not start to build boost as soon and it will not make as much boost on the top end. If you constantly overboost the turbo on the top end it will help to keep the max boost under control and help to keep your drive pressures from getting to high if you are making to much power with to big of injectors.




I keep hearing this but have yet to see any proof of it. That statement in itself is missleading and not complete. How much air does each flow at a given pressure ratio or at a given efficiency? Also which turbo is durable and capable of being pushed to a much higher pressure ratio (boost level) without destroying itself? For the latter would definitely be the H2E.
ill try to make things make a little more since. its easy you get all of it but you should know that it is on the exhaust side of things. so if you push the same amout of air in to a smaller area more pressure so it will spin the turbin faster. and the h2e uses this idea but not nealy as small as stock.
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