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Injector removal/install write up
Before I replaced my injectors, I couldnt find an absolute detailed description of how to on an OBS, so I figured I'd make my own. By the way this is not crazy hard, Im 16 and did it just fine.
What you will need.
Common sockets and wrenches.
10mm deep well
A universal joint (swivel)
1. Remove intake, turbo Y pipe, and there is a box attatched to whatever the name of it is above the valve cover on the passenger side which is a bolt on top and bottom, a vaccum hose goes to it, which you unplug.
2. Remove all valve cover bolts. This is honestly the biggest ***** of this. Especially the valve cover bolts in the back. Make sure to take the bracket off the oil dipstick that is held onto the two valve cover bolts.
3. Unplug the injector wiring harness that, it plugs into the valve cover gasket. There are two on each side. Unplug them all. Take off the valve cover carefully that the gasket doesnt stick to the cover. I replaced my gaskets for $137 total for felpro, which I regret since it says right on the gasket, REUSABLE GASKET. At this point you are very exited since you see the valve springs, lifters, injectors, and what not. The injectors, if stock and not tampered with previously, have yellow tops, which are the solenoids.
4. Check the connections for the injector wiring harness that plug into the inside of gasket. I had one melted harness which I replaced for $37 through advance auto. Pull of harnesses that plug into the gasket on inside portions, all around. Pull of gaskets and set aside.
5. There are oil spouts that should look a galvanized steel looking color on the side of the injector. One bolt holds them all on. Remove them all and set aside. On the side of the injector, if looking at truck head on, will be all the way left, for passenger side, or right for drivers side. It is the bolt that is colored in blue in the picture below. Ignore the red, and the picture is off a 2001, but same concept. Unscrew it and set aside.
6. There is a yellow, if stock harness, connector on the injector with a clip on top, pull off clip and slide the plug downward until fully out. Do injectors on one side of engine at a time, going from the cab, forward. I was told to pry it out with something, I used a flat head screw driver. Put it under the collar, on upper side of engine, which the last retaining pin in blue above, was holding down. Then tap on the end of the screw driver, after some tapping, it should come right out. Do this to all of the injectors and they are out.
7. The injector wiring harness splits in two, one going to the injector plug, one going to the glow plug. Pull off the plug going onto the glow plug. You need a deep well 10mm on an extension. Preferably on a 1/4" drive but 3/8" drive will work. Just loosen it past the snapping free point of it. Pull the socket off the glow plug and loosen it the rest of the way not fully on the glow plug, but at an angle. This is because you will loosen it up then find yourself cussing up a storm since you will get stuck on the lifter. If this happens, you can, as I had to, bend the glow plug to pull it out.
1. LUBE YOUR INJECTORS WITH NEW MOTOR OIL. I used old motor oil, but I dont reccomend it. This is a very important step. I know a diesel mechanic who didnt lube the injector and it blew the engine or head or whatever.
2. Put the injector in place. Tap it in with a rubber mallet. Make sure the collar goes over the bolt, looking head on with truck, right side for passenger side, left side for driver side. Put the collar retaining bolt back in place with 120 INCH POUNDS, not ft/lbs. Connect the wiring harness plug to the injector, put the clip back on the injector to hold the plug in place. Put on oil spouts again. I looked at it a few times to see how it goes on, but it will connect with one side against the injector, one side facing down. Do this on all injectors.
3. KEEP THE GLOW PLUGS OUT, for anyone trying to jump the gun. You will need it out to purge any fluids in the cylinder. Once all injectors are in, oil sputs, and harnesses are connected to the injector, you can start working on the old gaskets.
4. Take off all of the sealant on the gaskets. If you have a crack on the gasket itsself, replace it. Like I said, I paid $67 a piece for felpro. You may accidently pull out the seal on it, in the groove. Thats okay. Take your RTV black and run a nice bead over the entire underside of the gasket. Smooth it out and make sure it fills the crack and then some. Put it on and plug the (inside the valve cover) wiring harness to the gasket. Do on both sides, all inner wiring harnesses.
5. Put two valve cover bolts on, hand tight, on top and bottom side of valve cover on engine. Do this on both sides. DO NOT PLUG IN OUTTER INJECTOR HARNESS INTO GASKET. Jump in your truck and crank for about 10 seconds for about 3-5 times, allowing a 30 second interval in between cranks. What is happening is the fluids inside the cylinder is being shot out of the glow plug holes and back into the block. If you skip this step, like I did, your engine will be hydrolocked and you will not be able to start your engine, no matter what you do (other then this step, of course).
6. Pull the valve cover bolts and covers off again. Then install your glow plugs, making sure you get them in the right hole, as you can figure, Ive done it but immediatly realised it didnt look right. It calls for 14 ft/lbs for the glow plugs but I just did them tight, but not so tight that I stripped them. Plug the harness back onto the glow plugs.
7. Put the valve cover bolts back on. Make sure you put the bracket for the oil dipstick back in between the valve cover bolts and the valve cover on the passenger side. It calls for 97 inch/lbs for the valve cover bolts, but again, I just did them tight, but not too tight.
8. Plug the outter harness into the valve cover gasket. Install the turbo Y pipe, intake, and the box that goes into the a/c thing above the passenger side valve cover. Make sure nothing is in the way of the belt and shroud. Start cranking away. I did for about 25 second intervals, with 1 minute of starter cooling time, for about 3-4 times, and mine started. May be more, may be less.
If I did my injectors again, I would defanitly change some things.
1. WARM DAY... I did mine wile the wind chill temp was -7F. BAD DECISION.
2. A set of instructions like this
3. Remembered to de-hydolock step, mentioned in step 5 of installing.
Last edited by Joe0816; 02-07-2013 at 07:01 PM.
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