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Old 01-25-2013, 04:25 PM
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Wicked Wheel Install ASAP

Hey guys I just got the WW2 and I am beta testing it, I got all four bolts off of the outer housing. I can't get the housing off due to the valve cover... Is there anyway to get it off without damaging the wheel and also not damaging the new one when I but it back on? I dont want to take the whole turbo out but it looks like I might have too....help please!!!
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:38 PM
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Just put a WW2 on my 95 a week ago. I had to pull my turbo completely, thought about trying to pull the valve cover and just pulling the compressor housing but ended up pulling the whole turbo. The new wheel is a hair taller than the stock wheel so even if you get the housing off, it may not go back on. I would just plan on pulling the whole thing out, then you can get a wrench on both sides rather than hitting it with a impact.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:48 PM
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Ok awesome!!! Is there 4 pedistal bolts? And u have to remove the bolts from the down pipe and the four bolts that go to exhaust housing I think? It 4 bigger bolts the lead towards firewall...sorry I just never had to deal with such take space...horrible design
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:58 PM
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There are 4 ped bolts, 2 bolts and 2 nuts on the up pipe, a clamp on the down pipe and 3 bolts on the EBPV. It is a horrible design, you will need swivel sockets, IIRC 13mm and 15mm and may have to use a short open end on the passenger side nut along with a prybar for leverage. I would also recommend removing the EBPV to give you a bit more space on the passenger side bolts. If it's anything like my truck every bolt will fight you coming out and going back in and the EBPV rod will turn so when your trying to attach it blindly it won't line up, at one point I was stepping down form a 3/4" drive 3' ratchet to a 1/4" drive socket for leverage and clearance, not sure how I didn't break something.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:03 PM
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Is there any better way to reattach it that you did? I did not know if had any advice to do it differently? And what kind of increase did you see on your OBS?
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:14 PM
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Honestly, the only way I can see making it easier to remove or reinstall the turbo is pulling the motor or cab. Pulling the EBPV is optional, I gave up fighting the passenger side ped bolt and pulled the EBPV. There is no clearance with that bolt, I had to use a cheep Chinese socket with a really thin wall. Spool seems to be a bit quicker but I'm not seeing any improved boost. I am still working with Bob trying to find any leaks but I am curious to see what someone else with a OBS sees. Are you running stock 49 state 90cc injectors? From your sig, our trucks should be vary similar except for the transmissions.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:19 AM
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yeah I got it in..running 49 states truck...i got some other mods which you can see below but man it spooled up so quick and more boost...but I got bad gauge wobble so got to get a liquid filled gauge....but man install was a pain in a**
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:09 PM
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If your gauge is bouncing around, you need to dampen the supply. IIRC Autometer makes something for that or you can do like I did, fill the end of the T on the MAP line with epoxy and drill it out with a really small bit. Slows the air moviment down so the gauge doesn't bounce. You could also relocate from the MAP line to the spyder.
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:16 PM
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I bought a 90 degree brass fitting, they said it would cut down on bouncing...it that does not work then i will try that
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:28 PM
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I could detune mine to stock and do a boost run, probably still going to be a bit of performance over a stock truck tho, but even at that I gained 6-8 psi and my up pipes and exhaust manifolds are leaking bad.
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