BANNED by Kris
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pasadena, CA
Thanked 113 Times in 105 Posts
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You have to remove the fuel bowl (if you still have it) for good access. Since it's out might as well do a light rebuild on it too (new rubber and leak check). The HPOP has just a couple bolts holding it on on the outside of the front cover and one large bolt on the inside that also holds the drive gear to the pump. Buried under some wiring and grime on the front cover is the access cover to get to the drive gear bolt (DON'T DROP THE BOLT INTO THE MOTOR). not easy to get to but not really hard either with the fan installed. When I did mine I still had the fuel bowl and cam driven fuel pump. Since I was there I also "rebuilt" the fuel bowl and replaced the fuel pump. Also, since I did remove the fan to use air tools, I did the water pump and LPOP as they are right there too. (If you have read my other posts on here then you'll know that I'm pretty lazy and spend a lot of money doing a lot of side work at the same time. Not always necessary).
The install is pretty straight forward there is just a lot of crap in the way. Check/replace your HP hoses at the same time. If they need to be replaced get at least b50 rated lines. The future is leaning biofuels.
Good luck and keep the oil off that Beautiful truck!
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank
-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4
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