I recently installed Full Force 238/100 Stage 3 hybrid injectors into my truck. I also found out that this are no joke when it comes to power. I want the internals of my truck to stay together without issues. My questions I have are about the valve springs and push rods. I already plan on head studs.
1. Am I fine with getting away with just Comp 910 springs?
2. Do I need to install shims and if so, how do you measure properly to insure the right shim? I dont want to just say "the .030 should be good".
3. Do I need push rods and if so whos do you perfer?
The truck is a daily driver and a toy hauler but used for fun as well like most people. Ive hit 45 psi of boost already and let off, had more in it, fearing the damage I could cause with running stock internals. Im not building a race motor by no means just a fun daily driver. I running a H2E turbo so I feel good about that. I don't plan on making a huge power Id be happy with 450-500 tops. I getting it detuned for now to keep it together. Any other input would be great. Also I dont plan on breaking the bank and buying all H11 stuff, just looking for "reasonably priced" parts.
You need to do a fuel system, if you haven['t already. No sense tearing up brand new injectors.
Do head studs and valve springs.
You'll use a valve micrometer to shim the springs back to stock specs.
Super easy to do, so don't let it intimidate you.
Basically, remove the spring, install the mic in it's place, and see what the height works out to be. Install shims to make up the difference.
Swamps has a shim kit, and they might even be able to point you toward a good place to pick up the mic.
I'd skip the pushrods, if it was my engine. Nice strong pushrods won't bend, that's true... But, when you reach a situation that would normally bend a pushrod, it breaks the rocker arm. Usually when that much force builds and a rocker arm breaks, the cam throws the lifter out of the retainer...
So, I do not recommend upgraded pushrods with stock rocker arms.
Stock pushrods aren't expensive either.