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Old 09-16-2012, 04:42 PM
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E-fuel 97 f250/350

Hey guys, Ive been wanting to do efuel for a while now, but I havn't felt confident enough to do it, I figured the best way to get over that is order the parts that way I'm in it and have to figure it out.

Im sure I will be asking a lot of questions and would appreciate help.


Ordered so far

- Aeromotive 13109 Fuel regulator

-Walbro GSL392 Universal Inline 255LPH Fuel Pump 255 LPH

-FM100 Fuel / Water Separator 5 micron (planning on using as pre pump filter)

-Wix 33528 filter and base ( going in as post pump filter)

so far im about 380-400$ into it. hopefully all i need from here is lines ect.

I do already have a few questions, one being installing a light that is illuminated if low fuel pressure occurs. Secondly, im going to mount my entire assembly on my frame rail, ill find a good place for it, but I obviously run the intake from the fuel tanks into the pre filter- into pump - inter post filter- then what? Ive heard you can remove the fuel bowl? were do I run the fuel to if the fuel bowl isnt there? into the head directly? and what will I regulate the fuel pressure to? I have read the regulator goes on the return side of the fuel system, but how do I know what the fuel pressure going to my injectors is? dont i want it to be ~70psi? Obviously im confused.

as you can tell i'm going in blind a bit, I honestly havn't even looked at my truck a hole lot, I'm sure I can do it but I order the stuff so that I know it will get done.

thanks guys!
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  #2  
Old 09-17-2012, 03:07 PM
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The Fuel Regulator will have a 1/4' NTP port that the fuel pressure gauge can go into (get a fluid filled gauge to keep the bounce away). Yes you will be removing the old Fuel Bowl and the fuel pump in the valley as they are no longer needed. The fuel pump "hole" can be capped with a 9/16" (I think) freeze plug. The guys on here that build their own kits like to reuse the banjo fitting that is normally on the back of the bowl to supply the fuel to the heads in the back. We, that are too lazy to build our own kits, remove the banjo fitting and lines in favor of running new larger line straight to the heads. The return side are the front two ports (one on each head) that will be plumbed back into the regulator before being sent back to the tanks. Set the pressure to 60-65 PSI. and check for leaks. Because the regulator is after the injectors the gauge will be showing you the pressure between the regulator and the fuel pump. This includes the heads and the injectors.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:31 PM
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i think its a 7/8 freeze plug to fill the hole. a lot of ppl talk about dimpling it out to hold better. also do u have a inertia switch? i made a fitting and reused to banjo fitting.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:33 PM
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7/8" does sound more correct. I just did a real good wipe with brake cleaner on a lint free rag and then used a very light coat of gasket maker on the plug.

Last edited by BigFuel; 09-18-2012 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:24 PM
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Alright, think I got it and its pretty straight forward, Lets make sure.


Fuel tank -> filter 1 -> Pump -> filter 2 -> banjo fitting previous connect to bowl -> Through injectors/heads -> out to return ports at front of heads -> into regulator set @ ~65psi -> out of regulator back into factory return lines into tank.


If thats connect my question is, wouldn't the pressure at the heads/ injectors be the max pressure the pump is producing? Say my pump makes 100psi, wouldn't it make 100psi @ the injectors and the pressure wouldn't be reduced till 65 until after the regulator? Maybe i'm having a brain fart, but a regulator cant reduce pressure on the intake side can it? I'm confused somewhere.


thanks again guys, cant wait for my stuff to come in.
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Old 09-18-2012, 06:56 AM
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No the regulator relieves all pressure over what it is set at ie 65psi so if u have more volume than your return lines can flow or a kink after the regulator that can cause pressure spikes
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yngbuck19 View Post
No the regulator relieves all pressure over what it is set at ie 65psi so if u have more volume than your return lines can flow or a kink after the regulator that can cause pressure spikes
Makes sense, because the regulator lets 65 psi through, it regulates the injectors and heads at 65, because without the regulator at all it wouldn't build any pressure it would just flow through unrestricted.

I think I got it now, Ill have more questions soon, Probably build my mount (for the two fuel filters and pump) then rip my engine apart and start installing.


what the best way to hook fuel line coming from my pump into a banjo fitting that was connected to the bowl.? do they sell ends that do that?

Would I better off getting new lines to go to the backs of the heads? or is the factory banjo DIY perfectly fine?

thanks guys!
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:19 PM
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I bent and flared my own I've known the banjo fitting where it's brazed can leak and where the rubber grommets go in the compression fittings to the heads deteriorate and leak sometimes too. I made mine out of 3/8" stainless tubing flared and used #6 flare fittings and a couple Parker 1/8npt 45deg brass elbows and a Y block that was like 8 ORB I think it flows nicely and on the return side I have a fuel cooler infront of the radiator
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:28 PM
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Oh, good idea, ill just flare it.

You used a y block, in from the tank and out to each head?

awesome, this doesn't seem to hard, hope it goes well. I did read something about when you remove the fuel pump don't drop something? what falls off?
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:51 PM
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Yes the mechanical fuel pump has a poppet or plunger that hits the lobe of the cam shaft below if you're not careful or gentle the poppet could slip out of the pump and into the crank case which would not be good. My fuel system is as follows: comes out the outlet side of the selector valve goes to my bed mounted CAT waterseperator 30mic through the SD pump then post pump CAT filter 2mic then back down to where the fuel supply line goes to the motor and then hits the Y block in the valley splits to the 3/8" tubing and various adapters and elbows 2 on the drivers side and on elbow on the passenger side fuel rail then comes the return lines from both heads to the regulator set at 68psi then goes through a Hayden brand trans cooler and back to the motor to the stock return line. If your flares don't seal the first time like mine I used these flare tight seals and they worked great. Pics below.


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
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E-fuel 97 f250/350-imageuploadedbyag-free1348019284.545049.jpg   E-fuel 97 f250/350-imageuploadedbyag-free1348019308.101155.jpg   E-fuel 97 f250/350-imageuploadedbyag-free1348019371.207546.jpg   E-fuel 97 f250/350-imageuploadedbyag-free1348019401.721632.jpg   E-fuel 97 f250/350-imageuploadedbyag-free1348019439.583161.jpg  

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