Beans Complete Single Pump System -vs- Dieselsites CPR System Questions - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-29-2012, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Beans Complete Single Pump System -vs- Dieselsites CPR System Questions

I've got a 95 Ext Cab 4x4 XLT, 183,000 miles. Truck's coming along. No plans on making big power. I'd like to keep it as stock as possible, I'd just like to make it more efficient, reliable, less-leaky, and want to go through it to ensure it's good to go.

For now, I'm replacing my Fuel Bowl and Drain Valve O-Rings, which should get me down the road for a while. Driving 50/50 city/highway, I get about 16.3 mpg. From reading in here, I've seen that there's room for improvement.

Out of curiosity, I've been reading a lot in here about DIY systems and other systems you can purchase.

I have NOT seen any sort of comparison threads about Beans -vs-CPR. The difference in price is staggering.

Beans:
94-97 Power Stroke Complete Single Pump Fuel System $849.
94-97 Power Stroke Complete Single Pump Fuel System

Dieselsite:
1994-1997 FORD PSD FUEL SYSTEM $1499
http://www.dieselsite.com/fuelsystems-cpr.aspx

Again, I plan on stock injectors, turbo, chip, etc.

Are either of these worth the financial investment in my case, or should I just "restore" the stock system and be happy with that?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 6 Old 08-29-2012, 08:30 AM
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Just my $.02, if you are never going to go with anything over stock injectors you would just be wasting your money going to e-fuel. There are a lot of guys doing e-fuel for around $400 as I'm sure that you have read but there are also trucks out there with well over 200,000 miles on them that have the stock fuel system still and have been very reliable.

Jack
97 F250 Xlt, built E4od, D60 swap, Baby swamps, tunes by Dp
1.0 turbo housing, 203* t-stat, diy 6637, 4" exhaust
Diy intercooled, 6.0 fan, Diy 140v Idm, Isspro Ev gauges
On board air,E-fuel, 5" lift on 35's
320000 miles
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-29-2012, 08:42 AM
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in my opinion, the stock fuel system is a joke, and that's why I got rid of it..... try changing a stock fuel pump alongside the road somewheres.....not fun...

I did e-fuel as much to get rid of the stock fuel pump and the stock filter crap, as much as to have better pressure.....

and now, if the fuel pump croaks, I can change it myself in about 15 minutes, and the fuel filters are a lot easier to change also...
and if the HPOP dies, (Saints preserve us !), I can now change it easily myself also, without all that crapola in the way.....

you can do it yourself, in your driveway, with hand tools, for a reasonable price, so to me, it was a no-brainer......

just do a search for "E-fuel" and there's tons of info on it here, and on the Nation...(PowerStrokeNation.com)

and if you want a bit more power, without reducing the reliability of the stock components, put a set of tranny saver injectors in it, (about 130 cc's) and a chip programmed for them....
that will get you up to the modern power levels, and work with your stock turbo....you DO want a pyrometer first, to monitor EGT"s with however.

'97 Centurion. F350 4x4 CCLB
Full Force 180cc Stage I's, D66, SRP-1.1, ARP, Banks IC, DIY E-Fuel, EBPV Del & Gut'd Ped., BD Exhaust Brake., SD IDM, HPX, BstFoolr, 4" DP - 4" exh,
6.0 Fan, 180 T-Stat, DIY Don.105006 AF, CCV Mod, BTS, W/ SD Trans Lines, Tru-Cool Max, PML Trans Pan, Bumper Mod, IssPro Gauges, Fluidampr, Mellings LPOP.....
Tuned by "The WildMan".

Last edited by OL' OutLaw; 08-29-2012 at 08:51 AM.
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-29-2012, 09:28 AM
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Slepe67, I am with you. I have been researching the same thing. I upgraded my FPR spring to the Califirnia version to increase, and make more constant my fuel pressures. I don't really know if I need e fuel or not. I have spoken to all the manufacturers of these "kits" and of course, each outfit thinks their kit is superior. The Bean's kit at $849 is sure a whole lot more appealing than a $1,400 kit.

My problem is, I just don't understand enough about how the entire fuel system works to just buy parts and start hacking up my old system. I need detailed instructions and the proper parts to enable me to replace the mechanical fuel system with confidence. I won't go into something without a thorough understanding.

So like you, here I sit and wait for either help from a buddy who knows what to buy and how to do the job to help me, or for an affordable kit with great instructions to come along.

I am original owner of 97 Extended Cab 4x4 with 86,000 miles, Unlimited Diesel 175/30 Stage 1.5 Injectors, ATS Intercooler, Tony Wildman 6 Position Chip, 4" Turbo Back Diamond Eye Exhaust, Stealth SPR1 HPOP, Wicked Wheel 2, Hypermax Combo Boost/EGT Gauge, DIY Intake, FPR Mod, CCV Mod, IDM Mod, 203 degree T Stat, Stainless Steel High Pressure Crossover Line, Fitch Fuel Catalyst, 40,000 lb. Trucool Max Transmission Cooler. Next up a Bean's D-66, electric fuel, torque converter and a valve body.
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-29-2012, 11:42 AM
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I'm 100% with OL'Outlaw but I was too lazy to build one myself. This is Beans, looks all fancy but after recieving the item I cataloged the filters and pump and they are nothing too special. All roadside serviceable and Napa crossover parts. What is nice about the kits is that there is nothing you need to find or fiddle with. They include all parts, wiring, bolts, mounts (beautiful all aluminum mounts), and hoses. No hunting or multi-trips to the shop to get that "one more part and I'll be done".

Pretty


+ Matt - Star Tiger +
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, test pipes, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Replacement Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, SRP1.1
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

Re-pinning '97 Cali PCM to Federal
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-29-2012, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Dieselman View Post
Just my $.02, if you are never going to go with anything over stock injectors you would just be wasting your money going to e-fuel. There are a lot of guys doing e-fuel for around $400 as I'm sure that you have read but there are also trucks out there with well over 200,000 miles on them that have the stock fuel system still and have been very reliable.
haha, yeah. That's my dilemma...

Quote:
Originally Posted by OL' OutLaw View Post
in my opinion, the stock fuel system is a joke, and that's why I got rid of it..... try changing a stock fuel pump alongside the road somewheres.....not fun...

I did e-fuel as much to get rid of the stock fuel pump and the stock filter crap, as much as to have better pressure.....you DO want a pyrometer first, to monitor EGT"s with however.
Yeah, I think that's the consensus in pretty much every PSD Forum I've looked at. Scrap the stock POS ssystem and go electric. I have a good friend who's pushing 300K on his 97 & he's never so much as TOUCHED his stock fuel system, other than tightening up leaks & changing the filter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostbite View Post
The Bean's kit at $849 is sure a whole lot more appealing than a $1,400 kit.

My problem is, I just don't understand enough about how the entire fuel system works to just buy parts and start hacking up my old system...
So like you, here I sit and wait for either help from a buddy who knows what to buy and how to do the job to help me, or for an affordable kit with great instructions to come along.
yup, I getcha. I'm "restoring" a gennie '32 Ford Coupe. No problemo. I popped the hood on this diesel and started scratching my head. WTF is a Fuel Bowl? hahah

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFuel View Post
I'm 100% with OL'Outlaw but I was too lazy to build one myself. This is Beans, looks all fancy but after recieving the item I cataloged the filters and pump and they are nothing too special. All roadside serviceable and Napa crossover parts. What is nice about the kits is that there is nothing you need to find or fiddle with. They include all parts, wiring, bolts, mounts (beautiful all aluminum mounts), and hoses. No hunting or multi-trips to the shop to get that "one more part and I'll be done".
hmmm...dangit! Tough call...

I'm gona bump this to the top a few weeks and see what the vast majority say, then go from there. For now, I'll get the leaks stopped and start saving money for a DIY kit, or Beans (worst case: CPR). Not sure if the extra $$$ on the CPR is worth it.

Thanks for all the honesty. I do appreciate the opinions, either side of the debate.
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