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Good Start on Mods?

7K views 57 replies 11 participants last post by  lobograndemalo 
#1 ·
Hello,
I'm new to the forum although I've been reading it long before I signed up.
I'm about to embark on some new upgrades to my F250 7.3 Turbo..

Current truck is stock.(4.10 gears) 212000 miles on clock.

My aim is better gas mileage and with a little increased power. The truck is a daily driver. Also on weekends I take my popup camper up the mountains. Right now it really doesn't keep up with traffic until 3rd gear.

I was thinking I would order the following this week. If you guys could please critique my mod list it would be much appreciated.

4" Exhaust
Stage 1 injectors
1.0 Spool Turbo Housing
BDP Over boost kit
BDP Chip 6 pos

*Possibly an intercooler from 6L?

Attack away!

Thanks ahead of time for any knowledge you guys post..
 
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#2 ·
the exhaust is good
injectors will be good
i don't know about the exhoust houseing because i can't remember what comes factory on OBS's
you wont need the over boost kit
and the 6 position chip will be great
BUT i'd also add a set of gauges on the truck before you throw on a chip/injectors. smarter to monitor you temps
the intercooler can be from any E99 and newer, just depends on how much $ you wanna spend and where you can buy the pipes

maybe a fuel kit but not completely necessary because the 1's won't be demanding to much fuel
 
#4 ·
That's what I was thinking. OBS don't need the overboost kit because they don't have a wastegate, right?

Hello,
I'm new to the forum although I've been reading it long before I signed up.
I'm about to embark on some new upgrades to my F250 7.3 Turbo..

Current truck is stock.(4.10 gears) 212000 miles on clock.

My aim is better gas mileage and with a little increased power. The truck is a daily driver. Also on weekends I take my popup camper up the mountains. Right now it really doesn't keep up with traffic until 3rd gear.

I was thinking I would order the following this week. If you guys could please critique my mod list it would be much appreciated.

4" Exhaust
Stage 1 injectors
1.0 Spool Turbo Housing
BDP Over boost kit
BDP Chip 6 pos

*Possibly an intercooler from 6L?

Attack away!

Thanks ahead of time for any knowledge you guys post..
Like the others said:
6637 intake (Tymar makes a kit that is the same filter)
3" down pipe to a 4" straight pipe
Gauges: Auto (boost, pryo, trans) Manual (boost and pyro and some get fuel pressure)
Then worry about sticks, hpop, then tunes.

I just noticed the 3 responses you have are from SD guys. Maybe a couple OBS guys will jump in with what they have lol
 
#3 ·
I would do the following mods in this order:
DIY 6637 Intake
3" Downpipe to 4" straight pipe.
Gauges (pyro, boost, and if an auto trans temp)
If it is an auto then you will want to do a valvebody and trans cooler at the least.
I would do oil before injectors as you have the 15* hpop. I would go with the T500 from terminator.
If you do stage 1 (160/30) injectors there is no need for any turbo mods.
Lastly tunes, that way you are not sending the chip back for reburns a bunch of times.
My suggestion for tunes would be Bill at PHP.

Take it for what you want, just my suggestions for what they are worth.
 
#5 ·
Welcome to the org :thumb:

What year is your truck dude? "F250 7.3 turbo" indicates that it is a pre '94.5 IDI 7.3 turbo diesel, your mods list sort of indicates that you have a '99+ DI 7.3 Powerstroke but you list 4.10 gears which to me indicates that you are '97 or older...
 
#7 ·
hahaha the new guys got a damn good head on his shoulders. Great looking mod list. Wouldn't change a thing except add a swamps IDM if your trying to get some extra cheap hp.

I would do the following mods in this order:
DIY 6637 Intake
3" Downpipe to 4" straight pipe.
Gauges (pyro, boost, and if an auto trans temp)
If it is an auto then you will want to do a valvebody and trans cooler at the least.
I would do oil before injectors as you have the 15* hpop. I would go with the T500 from terminator.
If you do stage 1 (160/30) injectors there is no need for any turbo mods.
Lastly tunes, that way you are not sending the chip back for reburns a bunch of times.
My suggestion for tunes would be Bill at PHP.

Take it for what you want, just my suggestions for what they are worth.
our OBS 7.3's dont need upgraded oil... our 15* keeps up fine w/ stage I single shots.

Stick with the Beans tunes though... they cannot be beat!

That's what I was thinking. OBS don't need the overboost kit because they don't have a wastegate, right?



Like the others said:
6637 intake (Tymar makes a kit that is the same filter)
3" down pipe to a 4" straight pipe
Gauges: Auto (boost, pryo, trans) Manual (boost and pyro and some get fuel pressure)
Then worry about sticks, hpop, then tunes.

I just noticed the 3 responses you have are from SD guys. Maybe a couple OBS guys will jump in with what they have lol
No we dont need the overboost kit because tuners can tune the overboost code out in our trucks.
 
#9 ·
Please stop saying its not needed...Tuners cannot do anything except turn off the code...thats just masking the problem of low HPO...stupid.

To the OP

No not change the housing with a larger Inj.
Don't get 30% over nozzles will just smoke more.
You will need a IC
You will likely need a 17* pump..some 15* will work but most won't as they are geting OLD.
IDM will not make more HP will make the Inj coils react a little quicker. Do a IDM mod..$5 or get Beans or get a SD's Idm.
You wil need a clutch kit with larger Inj's.
 
#10 · (Edited)
ok well the difference between a tuner that doesn't tune out the code is 22psi and with the code tuned out is 30psi. No biggie, right?:tard:

I've seen many, many people w/ stage I's and the 1.0 housing and out of the 2 dozen people, about 2 have decided to go back to the stock housing w/ stage 1's.
The idm mod by Swamps has several dyno's floating around showing 20-30whp and 40-60ft-lbs to the wheels... take it or leave it.
 
#13 ·
The SWAMPS IDM mod (not to be confused with any other type of IDM mod out there..) is a high frequency high voltage mod that increases and regulates the frequency of voltage going to the injectors. since these injectors are electronically controlled, a higher, more pure voltage can make great differences in horesepower... especially in higher rpm's. If you are familiar with an oscilloscope, go to Swamps webpage and it will show you how it works.

FYI, the Swamps IDM has a secret makeup to its components..

83_305 thanks I really appreciate the info. I'm a little confused on what the IDM mod is/consists of.

Thanks.

Almost ready to order.

--Incase anyone is wondering I haven't forgotten about intake but I would prefer to wait on intake until I decide on my IC setup.
See above about the IDM.
 
#17 ·
--Incase anyone is wondering I haven't forgotten about intake but I would prefer to wait on intake until I decide on my IC setup.
Definitely do the intake before the intercooler. You won't even need the intercooler until you upgrade the injectors.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
#14 ·
1.0 housing will loose air flow over the stock...not what you want with larger Inj's that are flowing 60% more fuel....unless you just like smoke and higher egt's

Difference is the check engine light and code won't triger....but you still have low HPO#

I'll leave it...as 4k rpm isn't whats needed on any street truck...
 
#15 ·
From the people I've spoken w/, they actually decreased egt's in all rpm's using the 1.0 housing.
 
#18 ·
Sometimes what happens in practice doesn't coincide with what happens in theory:dunno:

Definitely do the intake before the intercooler. You won't even need the intercooler until you upgrade the injectors.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
I agree
 
#19 ·
I have found lots of mixed reviews on 1.0 housings.. Many warnings against them. Also many people in love with them. -- I think this is going to have to be one of those mods I try out.

As far as Stage 1 injectors should I get the Beans one or Swamps?

-- by the end of day I will have placed an order for most everything discussed here. So as to an buy order there isn't one. I'm attempting to do 1 big shabang. Hence the reason I don't want to run get a intake then replace it with another a couple hours later.

Thanks again for all opinions.
 
#20 ·
Do some google searching... 98% of people that have tried a 1.0 housing absolutely love it and wouldn't go back for the world. In fact, the Super Duty guys loving using 1.0 housings over their stock .84 housings too.

I would go with rosewoods stage 1's... much cheaper.
 
#21 ·
My vote is Ryan Casserly injectors. Otherwise known as full force diesel.


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#23 · (Edited)
No disrespect to the guys that are getting real technical, real fast and dropping acronyms like they are hot...

If I was you dude, I would start simple and go from there.
-your 4.10 gears are the biggest fuel economy issue. Find a set of 3.55 gears to drop RPM.
-decide on a good tuner. There are lots out there, most guys around here seem to prefer a TS6 position chip either with factory cookie cutter tunes or you can step it up and get custom tunes loaded by a tuner of your choice.
-air intake. Lots of guys build their own using a napa 6637 filter and some PVC or something similar piping. If you search CAI (cold air intake) or DIY 6637 intake you will find lots of write ups and pics to help you.
-get rid of the factory down pipe. This is the pipe that runs from the turbo down to your exhaust system. If you lay on your engine and look down that pipe or lay on the ground and look up it, you will see that it is squashed almost flat right from factory. There are a pile of manufacturers that make 3" aftermarket down pipes. You can get them with the flange on the end to bolt up to your exhaust or just bare pipe so you can weld custom exhaust or whatever to it.
-get rid of your catalytic converter at least and preferably your muffler as well. They are extremely restrictive. Don't worry, even with them removed your truck will NOT be loud, just more whistle and sound more aggressive. You don't need to get into big custom systems right off the hop.
-a good set of gauges, most important being Exhaust Gas Temp. If you can only afford one, get that one.
-you have a ZF5 trans, which is a very stout reliable trans. You don't need a heavy clutch unless you start really getting in the hp mods. I would suggest that you start a coffee can piggy bank and start saving for a clutch down the road cause sooner or later we all have to do one, especially if you still have the factory dual mass flywheel which is known to come apart with no warning.

The mods that I listed are called "the basics". That's what I have. I gained about 4mpg, better driveability, a few more HP and just generally made my truck happier. The mods these other guys are talking about are going to the next step. If you have lots of money and want to do as much as you can, go for it. The things they have listed ie: injectors, big oil, big fuel, big air are all awesome mods and good valid suggestions, but I remember being new and having guys throwing acronyms and technical numbers and names at me like crazy when all I really wanted was the list I just gave you. "The basics" need to be done before doing of the big boy mods like injectors and stuff anyway to support them properly.

That's my .02. Good luck :thumb:

Have you found all the OBS specific threads?
 
#24 ·
I'm with JJFLASH. Depending on your technical ability you will also need to factor in shop and labor costs. Do the intake and exhaust. The exhaust will take several hours not because it is hard but getting that stock down pipe out is a pain. Except for the downpipe both installs can be build it yourself. I heavy tow a lot so the 3.55 is not something that I'd do but a Gear Venders is in my near future.
 
#25 ·
Thanks guys I really appreciate it.

One question about gears. If I do gears do I have do front and rear? It is a 4x4...

Thanks sorry if it sounds stupid.

-- I have lots of mechanical experience just never with a diesel. My last 2 mustangs where 4.6's up over 500rwhp. I'm capable of all the mechanical work.
 
#26 · (Edited)
YES! Front and rears must be matched or you will cause undue damage to the transfer case or either pumpkin (NO question is stupid, we all teach each other things all the time). If money is really that tight you could do the rear and disconnect the forward drive shaft Just to keep from doing anything dumb. I used to do a lot of my own work but the one thing i never did was ring and pinions. Its more expensive in parts to do both at the same time but I'm sure that the shop would give you a better labor rate if you did. Summit has good prices on gears and ratios. Also take a look at 85_305's other post in the general section. A lot of guys are getting 16+ with their 4.10's. I'm averaging 17.6 myself pump to pump.
 
#27 ·
I've got 4.10's and I average 18.x mpg w/ my 35" tires and 6" lift.
 
#28 ·
Thanks. I'm headed to shop to price out a lift and new tires to try and offset gearing.

I ordered some stuff.

4" mbpr turbo back exhaust(should replace down pipe right?)
pyro and boost guages/pillar
1.0 spool housing
turbo rebuild kit..
Tymar intake

I will see where all that takes me then decide next. If I'm happy with all that then I will order chip. If not I will probably order injectors and chip. Im holding off on injectors due to down time required.

Again I really appreciate all the responses and great info..

Thanks.
Hopefully my stuffs here friday.
 
#30 ·
GOOD looking list :thumb:

^^^^One thing to note. After you install these parts your MPG's WILL go down for the first week or three. Mostly only because you are having so much fun with your now alive truck. Happy Motoring :D:D:D
Indeed!
 
#29 ·
^^^^One thing to note. After you install these parts your MPG's WILL go down for the first week or three. Mostly only because you are having so much fun with your now alive truck. Happy Motoring :D:D:D
 
#33 ·
????

...are thinking of the issues that Copestetic posted, complaining of a terrible ride under load? That wasn't me.
 
#34 ·
Nope, sorry wrong jjFLASH. It was this guy



Dude, I'm just messing around. I'll stop.:taze:
 
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