3in to 5in exahust help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-03-2012, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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3in to 5in exahust help

I have a 3in downpipe to a 5in dimond eye exahust and i was told its Hell to change out from the factory flat downpipe, how big of a pain is it, I'm very mechanicly inclined, just wondering about how much time is involved, I have a 95 single cab 1ton

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post #2 of 7 Old 05-04-2012, 11:55 AM
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i did mine in about 5 hours that was the full install it is a b*tch but its possible you have to cut the cab seem and bend it out of the way for the down pipe to fit but it is defiantly possible to do. soak the clamp that holds the stock down pipe to the turbo with pb blast the night before and tear into it in the morning.
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post #3 of 7 Old 05-04-2012, 05:45 PM
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If you have the right tools the downpipe really isn't THAT bad. You will definately need some long sawzall blades, like 12" or something close to that. You will have to make 3 cuts- one under the truck in front of the cat, one on top where it starts to go down and another right where it starts bending down. It is a time consuming job, but very doable. I have only installed two and on both of them I only took a big pry bar and bent the lip on the cab, never cut either one and both went in very good. When installing the new one it will take a couple tries for the top piece since you have to spin a certian way to get it to go. Hope this helps and good luck!

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post #4 of 7 Old 05-06-2012, 10:02 AM
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I have done 2 myself, a one piece and a 2 piece unit. They were both dp straight pipe kits and they both took me around 4hrs to install by myself and I welded both of them.

The DP comes out easy if you cut it in half at the pinch weld. Once its out cut a bit of the weld out and then put the pry bar on it to get clearance

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post #5 of 7 Old 05-13-2012, 06:58 AM
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I just did this to 94 f350. It was hell trying to get it out. 3 saw blades and cut hands and a pinte of blood, and 4 hours later it came out. Installing the new downpipe really wasn't all that hard but i did have to cut into the cab to bend to make room for the new downpipe. But hey i am not that mechanical but I hate spending the money for someone else to do it if I can do it my self. Would I do it again? most likely now that I know how to do it. But I will say this though, what a difference in gas mileage and power. Well worth the money. I had the 2 piece downpipe.

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post #6 of 7 Old 05-15-2012, 07:39 PM
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Just did it to my 95 last weekend. Used the Diamond eye kit 3" to 5" straight pipe. Took me 2 hours, and I welded it up. I only used about half the kit, as I wanted it to exit in front of the rear tire. The down pipe was a pain, but not terrible if you plan your attack beforhand. Took one strategically placed cut to get it out. Use a good 10-12 inch blade. Undo it from the turbo first, and drop it down as far as possible. Make your cut right at the first 90 degree bend. This will leave you with a straight piece to pull out the top, and a curved piece you can fish out the bottom. Going in with the new one you will need to take a cut off wheel or tin snips to trim away the heat shield enough to see the pinch weld seam of the cab. Then remove the piece of shield held on by 2 pop rivets on top of the seam. Then slide the new downpipe down in there to see where your interference is at. Cut slits in the seam and bend them down, not up. You will need to wiggle it around and hold your mouth just right to get it to go down in there. But it will go. It goes in easier from the bottom up if you ask me. After the downpipe is in, it's really simple to bolt (or weld) the rest of it up. The diamond Eye kit is well made, and cheaper than MBRP.

Here is how it sounds now:

Last edited by oldskool13; 05-16-2012 at 05:19 AM. Reason: Added video
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post #7 of 7 Old 05-15-2012, 08:54 PM

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i put in a 3" diamond eye pipe and it was a huge pain, i used only small blades and the handle of my floor jack, but i did it, had to go buy an air hammer and so far that was it's only use lol, but if you un bolt the stocker top and bottom remove the trans dipstick and remove the rear engine hoist mount i think it is, it's a ring bolted to the top pass side to the head, you can get a good angle on cutting that cobra head off, cut a bit off the bottom as far up as you can so you can twist it around, and it should come rite out, to get the new one in i just took my air hammer to a couple spots where the pipe runs and boom, there it is, slid it together, clamp it, and put the rest in

2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked

Originally Posted by marine5811
The stock downpipe in an OBS is flat because I'm a ginger.
Originally Posted by alberta 7.3
Finding a decent woman is like shopping for a used truck. You spend most of your time picking through the money pits, wrecks, and basket cases until you find one that you can tolerate
Originally Posted by JJFLASH
Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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