ive been reading a lot about different ways guys have set up e fuel on there truck and was wondering what kind of prices you guys have found on the pump and filter set ups?
Ive been considering just biting the bullet and spending the money for a e fuel set up since i need to change my mechanical pump out since its leaking. what are you guys thoughts on the change? pros/cons?
Really that depends on your budget and how much shopping around you do I used a napa filter base and CAT post pump 2micron filter and my water fuel seperator came with a filter head no heater in my system at all I have a fuel cooler
what would be the reason for the fuel cooler? i would imagine i would want a fuel heater as winter gets fairly cold (0-10deg sometimes neg) where i live?
Yeah I would deffinately have one there but it barely gets below 15 ever here in Va. I can't remember which filter heads were heated maybe Stanadyne yeah thats the brand name a fuel cooler on the return side keeps the in burned fuel cooler when going back to the supply tanks not good when your fuel keeps getting heated up by the radiant heat as it flows through the fuel heads inside the motor over and over fuel density eventually becomes a factor
Dont let all the info out there spook you. This mod is super easy. I just did this last week because i was having the same problems with the banjo bolt leaking, my total cost was under $150.
99 SD fuel pump w/ bracket and wiring - $45 from the junkyard
tightwad mod the stock regulator- free
Filters from Fleetfilter.com
1x 33107 Wix 33107 & Napa 3107 Fuel Filter $4.08 <-this is your pre pump filter
1x 33528 Wix 33528 & Napa 3528 Fuel Filter $9.16 <- this is your post pump filter
2x 24770 Wix 24770 & Napa 4770 Base $20.72
(order a 6637 filter while your at it if you havent moded the intake yet)
Hose and Fittings to finish the job - Under $50
*****When you pull the stock mechanical pump be sure to pack some rags around it and plug the hole with something before you remove anything else, this'll prevent diesel from dumping into the hole and save you the $60 it'll cost to change your oil after.
just search for "tightwad mod" or "fuel bowl delete"
The FPR's are a little different depending on the year I guess since none of the pics from anyone elses looked like mine, my 97's was really simple. When I removed the FPR there are 3 holes. The fuel inlet, the hole that the wire mesh screen is inserted between the FPR and fuel bowl, and the fuel outlet on the bottom. My outlet also has a hard line that runs out of it and down to the bottom of the fuel bowl. If you are still unsure the outlet can be easily identified if after you make your T connection where the banjo bolt used to be blow some compressed air through it. The hole that spews the most fuel on your FPR is your fuel outlet. I plugged up the inlet and wire mesh hole w/ JB weld, trimmed down the hard line on the bottom and JB welded where the fitting is inserted, then ran a 5/16" fuel line from that to the return line. No cutting the main body, No FPR removal. Just clean it up really good and do it while its still attached to the braided return lines.
This is a great option if you are wanting to save a little $$$ during your initial install. I plan on going back in and replacing with an aftermarket adjustable reg, replacing all braided and rubber lines with hard lines, etc. I just wanted to make a system that kept my rig driveable.
****also some other advice, when you install the pump/filter setup underneath the truck, install an inline fuel shutoff right after the selenoid. This'll make it alot easier to change out your filters and ensure you are dumping as little diesel as possible on yourself when you are under there tinkering with your fuel line connections.
****also some other advice, when you install the pump/filter setup underneath the truck, install an inline fuel shutoff right after the selenoid. This'll make it alot easier to change out your filters and ensure you are dumping as little diesel as possible on yourself when you are under there tinkering with your fuel line connections.
once you pull the wiring out with the fuel bowl. i know you have to put the ipr wiring back in but do you have to do anything with the other wires? or any other wiring changes?
I think you meant the fpr. The wire that goes to that is your fuel pressure sender. The other two that go to your now deleted fuel bowl were the clogged filter idiot light and the fuel bowl heater coil. Both can be left disconnected.
I took those three extra wires out of the molex connector going to the IPR by the Hpop to be safe stuffed some pieces of plastic grocery bag in the individual wire ports and filled with blue Rtv
so somewhere on one of the many threads out there i read that the supple line coming off the tank selector, is the front line. while looking at mine today it looks like both of the lines coming out of it r side by side. which one is which? looking to start doing the swap on my rig tomorrow morning.
there should be 6 lines of teh selector valve two from each tank a feed and a return and two to the motor a feed and a return. you can always trace them
ya sorry i didnt clarify very well. i was refering to the supply and return lines coming from and going to the motor. not the tank lines. i have since found on another thread that its the one closest to the frame. thanks
most people are using one or the other, bill (alberta7.3) has two setups at least one has an aeromotive, garrett (weareweird69) has a fuellab, i will be running an aeromotive one on mine as soon as i get it in, should be early next week
ok so does the fuse have to be a maxi fuse or will a reg fuse work and long as its 30 amp?
which direction is the flow on the sd pump?
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