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DIY Tymar intake

16K views 31 replies 7 participants last post by  CT Performance, Inc. 
#1 · (Edited)
Just scored a filter off Ebay for $30 including shipping :woot:

I got it in the mail today and boy it's a big filter! :thumb:

Now I've just got to get some 4" pipe and decide how to proceed from here.

To air box, or not to air box. that is the question.

Any way, I'm excited. And can't wait to do the intake MOD on my 97 OBS

EDIT: there's pics of this intake 95% complete on page two of this thread

I'll post up pics on my shutterfly site which is linked in my sig, once I start the job.

:woot::woot:
 
#4 ·
My down and dirty install.

I just got home and opened the hood and took a look at what I'll be dealing with.

I'm thinking that I could take the lid from my stock air box and cut it up so that all that's left is a 4" nipple.

This would allow me to install the filter RIGHT NOW, and then work out the professional details at a more relaxed pace.

I'm off to get the wizz wheel and start hacking.:crazy:

In the long run I think I'll be using 4" exhaust pipe.

Pics on the way soon
 
#5 · (Edited)
Got it in!

PICTURES ARE UP :thumb::thumb:

Look in the link on my sig, it will be the first album, Titled "The Truck"

I couldn't get the stock rubber hose to stretch, so I cut a chunk of 4" hose off of my dust collection system from my wood shop.

It's not permanent, but it will work till I get the proper 4" metal pipe.

Time involved- 30min

Hardest part- removing bottom part of air box

busted knuckles- 1

Satisfaction level- 200%

IF YOU HAVEN'T YET DONE THIS ON YOUR TRUCK--- GET MOOVEN!
 
#6 ·
Berk,
I am in the electrical wholesale industry and i bought a tymar intake for my OBS...the best thing for you to do is to go call a local electrician and have them bend a peice of 4" EMT (electrical mettalic tubing) at a 22.5* bend, go get yourself 2 of 4" rubber couplings from autozone that have the heavy duty hose clamps on there then connect one end to you turbo and one to your filter
 
#7 ·
Hi ho Silver.....

Sounds like a cool use of EMT. My turbo doesn't have a 4" inlet though I don't think.

There is an "air horn?" that contains the CCV vent, and it's 4" on the filter side, and 3" on the turbo side.

And I'm thinking my garret turbo has a 2 or 3" inlet?

I'd like to straight pipe it from the turbo to the filter but it looks like I'll have to reduce pipe size somewhere.

Any way, I'm almost done with the CCV delete as well. Today has been a PSD kind of day!
 
#8 ·
from the filter to the last boot should be 4" that is what mine was at least on my 97

 
#10 ·
Hey silver, you got that red boot at Autozone??

You know to be totally honest, I'd love to find a 3"-4" adapter boot and run a pipe straight to the turbo. Git rid of all the extra bends and boots.

The CCV mod was fun, I rotated the doghouse and ran the tubing up over the brake booster then under the truck and out the rear. My intake was SATURATED with oil
 
#11 ·
No the boot came with my tymar intake I bought from dale at tymar performance but I'm sure you can find something similar at either autozone or your local peterbuilt shop
 
#12 ·
Homegrown Intake 95% complete

Alright :woot:

Finally got some free time for some one on one truck time.
Here is the new and improved DIY INTAKE with a twist. I wanted as much cool air as possible and as straight of a shot as possible, so...... battery had to go.

I've got more detailed pics in my shutterfly site linked through my sig.

There is still a few refinements needed to make this 100% but so far so good I think.
 

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#14 ·
I don't think I can agree with you Cary

It's all about the air flow, any bends or ridges from flex couplings or elbows interfere with the flow. The smoother and faster I can deliver air to the turbo, the happier it will be. In the grand scheme of things every little bit counts right? If my intake is begging for 700cfm (or what ever, just tossing numbers) and I run a loop-de-loop of piping and then cap it with a Donaldson. I'm willing to bet that turbo has to work harder to get the desired CFM, than if it was straight piped like mine.

Now on the pressure side of the turbo, that's a different story...and one I'm not well versed on. But I would assume that since it's under pressure.... elbows and ridges have less side effects.

but still, resistance is resistance.


Now if I'm just plain stupid about all this, some one please slap me. :pointlaugh:

Now my BIGGEST goal was to get my intake directly into the cold air flow, which I accomplished by removing the battery and relocating it to the passenger side. Pics of the relocation and fabricated battery box are in my shutterfly site.

All that's remaining is some custom battery cabling, and a mounting clamp for the filter.

Down the road I would like to upgrade my turbo, and when I do so I'll change out the OEM "air horn" and further stream line my intake.
So be it.
Aaron
 
#15 ·
Cary, just one more thing for ya.

Saw that you posted this tidbit of info in another thread on intakes ----> "Just a FYI:

The problem with heat shields and routing air through intake boxes is that whenever you direct air flow, you increase restriction. Low restriction is the goal, "

So according to your own statement, I'd be more inclined to think that you would be agreeing with me about the straight shot intake, and not disputing it.

Seams to me your just trying to "push a product" :dunno:
 
#16 ·
^^^^ slap slap
 
#17 ·
No I'm saying that you may of lost your battery??? for no measurable difference in air flow. Talking Boxes not less than 2' of piping restriction. You don't have a method of support for the filter..strap isn't what I would call support. Where it is there is more chance of it getting wet from water than from behind the battery..
 
#18 ·
I'm with Cary here... the restriction inside a 4" piece of pipe feeding your turbo is going to be negligible, at best. However if you crowd it into an airbox, it has less area to pull air from, hence more restriction. I admire you making the effort to do something different than the everyday DIY you see or just buying a kit, but you gained nothing.
 
#19 ·
Interesting,
OK so if not a gain for air flow, then whats the consensus on my quest for cooler air?

I was thinking that with the filter up in the battery spot it would get allot more air flow. I'm looking for cooler air. Sitting behind the battery didn't look like an optimal spot. I'm looking to get the MAXIMUM benefit out of any mod I perform, thus the effort to "think outside the box" I've still got a few details to finish on my intake, strapping the filter is one of them, and I'm considering an "air box of sorts" behind the filter to trap the cool air entering from the grill. And then an upgrade on the airhorn. I already pulled the CCV vent out of it and filled the resulting hole. I'd like to do away with the horn completely but that probably won't happen till I get a bigger turbo.

And the battery isn't "gone" it's been relocated to the passenger side, and upgraded to dual optimas in a custom battery tray. Pics are in my signature link.

Thanks guys for your comments
 
#20 ·
aaron you have good intentions its just, your truck doesnt need THAT much air. if you had really really big injectors and had a big turbo to clean them up then your setup would be needed. but not with a stockish truck. you could cover that filter like 90% with tape and dot notice a difference
 
#21 ·
Mounting Band for 8-1/2" Air Cleaner or Muffler - PowderCoat
Thought I'd throw this in here. Found it today. I believe it's what Tymar uses. Anyway, it can keep the bottom part up. More of a use with the superdutys it looks like but oh well. Oh Baldwin and Donaldson's are both water resistant filters. So either one is good. Baldwin is actually like an inch longer (I forgot the dimensions) but a bit longer.
 
#22 ·
storkerlovr thanks for the input.

I'm in route to a total performance package.
Where I come from we always start with the breath-ability issues first (intake and exhaust) before proceeding into the engine.

So maybe I should have made myself more clear from the get go?:tard:
My plan in some sort of organized fashion is:
Intake
Exhaust
Regulated return fuel
Turbo
Intercooler
HPOP
Injectors
Transmission
Tunes or chip or what ever programing fits best (haven't thought this one out yet)

So..... there's odds and ends that will occur along the way (diy mods, gauges and such) and refinements to my order of things as knowledge and funds increase. I'll be doing most of this one step at a time. Who knows.... maybe I'll get the chance to dump everything into it all at once:hehe: but I don't see that happening. I just want to do everything ONCE and only ONCE.

My OVERALL total goal is to have a streetable reliable truck at every step of the game.
 
#26 ·
Yeah I'd like to still go for the RR, and fuel bowl delete.

My fuel system burns D2 and WVO, the way I've got everything set up a RR looks to be the best option.
 
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