Set the regulator to around 23psi, that way the MAP never sees boost higher than that and shouldn't set the SES light for overboost. If you have your boost gauge in the MAP line put the regulator after your T for your boost gauge.
ok so if its not needed what do i need to do so see higher boosts...also i put the regulator in an i didnt see much diffrance still runnin same amount boost...
i have personally hit 36lbswith a stock garret tubo with diff wheels and stuff. But after about 6 months with your foot on the floor it will smoke the shaft
My understanding of need for boost fooler on an OBS engine is that if the map sees boost over 22 psi the signal it sends to the PCM is out of normal range and the PCM reverts to non dynamic engine fuel and timing tables (least that is how it was explained to me) or limp mode until such time pcm sees less than 22 psi boost. It seems some engines are affected and some are not. I know that on my 96 and 97 boost foolers made a difference....
I don't think the non-Cali trucks have enough fuel stock to set an SES for overboost. My 96 is a Cali model... I need to get my boost gauge figured out to see if I even need to worry about an boost fooler for a while.
Maybe that had something to do with the resistor Jake? I know my truck did that when I messed around with them. It had good low-end, but wouldn't go anywhere on the top end.
No i mean it like completely dropped off about 3 seconds after you would hammer it, wouldn't go over 35 mph unless you shut it off and started it back up again.
Look under the turbo for a black disc shaped object that is attached to the fuel pump... if you have it you have a Cali model. Another way is to pop the valve covers off and if the injectors are AB's its a Cali (unless they've been changed in the past of course). The 97 Cali models have a shunt on the GPR and slightly different wiring going to it as well.
Here's my experience on my 96 Federal (AA injectors stock). I put in new stage ones (AC's) not long after I got it due to bad injectors. Ran pretty good, made about 24 psi all stock except intake and downpipe, no cat. A few months later I ordered a DP tuner and installed. Out enjoying the new tunes, the first time I got on it really hard was blowing by a new (back then) 6.0. Just as we were blowing his doors off, the boost hit about 30 and it WAS LIKE YOU SHUT THE KEY OFF until it dropped to about 24, then re launced back up to 30 and shut down again. Did this about 5 times rapidly before I could let out of it! Didn't look too cool now! Of course I figured I blew it up or broke something. Drove back home easy, never did it again. Checked everything out, went out and drove normal, no problems till 30 psi or so, same result. Damn near snap your neck before you could let out. Put a regulator on it, NO MORE PROBLEM. So I would say some need it and some don't but no one has made a list yet. Mine is ALF4 code.
I have a 97 with Boost gauge T'd into Map line. Truck has a programmer, intake and exhaust. I see up to 30 psi of boost, maybe a little more with seemingly no de-fueling.
just installed my boost gauge in the map line also, with intake filter chip on 80hp and exhaust i made 26lbs in 3rd but not engine light or de-fueling
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