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post #1 of 9 Old 07-02-2010, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Exhaust Upgrade Question

Need advice. I want to change my stock exhaust on my 97 F350 7.3 I have a labor qoute to remove the stock down pipe and install a 3" pipe with 4" Turbo Back system and the labor qoute alone is hundered bucks more than the parts. Is there more performance to be gained with removing the Down Pipe. Since the 3" pipe is right againest the Firewall are there concerns with added heat this close? Lots of question but I want to be sure I'M getting the performance upgrade for the money spent.
thanks



2012 F350 XLT 6.7 CC LWB SRW
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2012 Montana Mountaineer 326 5th Wheel

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Reg Cab 4X4 Off Road Pkge
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-02-2010, 09:16 PM
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a 3in DP is a MUST. Especially if you are going to start putting performance parts on it. the stock DP SUX royally, it flattens out to near an inch thick in some spots and it is VERY restrictive
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post #3 of 9 Old 07-04-2010, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350ninty7 View Post
Need advice. I want to change my stock exhaust on my 97 F350 7.3 I have a labor qoute to remove the stock down pipe and install a 3" pipe with 4" Turbo Back system and the labor qoute alone is hundered bucks more than the parts. Is there more performance to be gained with removing the Down Pipe. Since the 3" pipe is right againest the Firewall are there concerns with added heat this close? Lots of question but I want to be sure I'M getting the performance upgrade for the money spent.
thanks
Like Welderman said that DP sucks one of Fords better idea's. Get a saw's all and some 6" blades and cut it out it has to come out in 2 parts then cut the pinch weld and use a port-a-power and jack against the motor and push it back to give you more room. You can't cut it out with a torch, it is stainless sreel it will only melt, why do i know!!
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-05-2010, 11:54 PM
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its not really that hard to replace your exhaust your self
like they said need to cut DP in half & make room on fire wall
call up a couple buddies if your not for sure or have tools to help out
they wont mind helping...if there true friends
tools that you would need
pry bar
1/2" socket
7/16" socket
9/16" socket
ratchet
maybe some wrenches
& some WD-40 for the clamps that you reuse & the rubber mounts that hold the exhaust up
i would have to say the hardest part of the whole job is the removal of the old DP

Dave

2002,7.3L,6sp,cc,lb,xmonitor,1705,zoodad,AFEstg2, wicked wheel,hpx ss line,straight pipe,325/65r18 mtz,kmc 18x10,6.5"procomp lift & track bars,firestone bags,viair 480,5g tank,train horns,70g transfer tank,leer shell,12k warn & hidden bumper kit,05-07 H-D headlights,35W 5K HIDs in head/fogs
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-06-2010, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Good feedback from all. I have the tools including the sawzall and given the labor cost I'll probably do it myself. The big concern which was answered is there that much more to gain in HP / Performance with the Down Pipe changed to 3". Any heat issues running the 3" DP that close to the Firewall.

Thanks



2012 F350 XLT 6.7 CC LWB SRW
11,500 GVW FX4 Off Road, Camper, & Prem XLT Options
2012 Montana Mountaineer 326 5th Wheel

SOLD and Missed
1997 F350 XLT 7.3 Liter Power Stroke
Reg Cab 4X4 Off Road Pkge
5 spd Manual with South Bend Clutch Upgrade
AFE Stage 2
Diamond Eye 3" Down Pipe 4" Exhaust Cat Delete
TW Tunes
WARN Winch
Original Owner 179,000 Miles
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-06-2010, 07:29 PM
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Ya there is performance to be gained. The more air you can put through the engine the more power you can make, of course that goes hand in hand with the amount of fuel, also you will see a good drop in your egt's too. Depending if u have gauges and where u have ur probe but ur turbo will thank you in the long run either way

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post #7 of 9 Old 07-06-2010, 07:29 PM
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I know the 2 OBS's i helped(mainly watched) put 3" DP's on never had a problem with heat. The one was on my brothers OBS, that was chipped, and pulled a lot. Needless to say it saw some high EGT's. But we never had a problem with the DP heating anything up. Never heard of any complaints from anybody else, so i'd say there is nothing to worry about. I'm wanting to do mine badly, but we just haven't had the time to mess with it. Other than installing it, i don't know of any drawbacks to a 3" DP.

Jimmy
97 F-250 ECLB 7.3/E4OD/4wd, 216k miles: FFD 250/200%'s, stock turbo, built trans, e-fuel, Swamps IDM, shimmed 910's, Melling LPOP, welded cam gear/modified pick-up tube. Built and tuned by me

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post #8 of 9 Old 07-06-2010, 07:59 PM
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both my buddys dont have any issues with any extra heat in the cab or floor board.
i think you have nothing to worry about doing it your self
what sthe worst that you can do brake the down pipe...ah thats what you want to do to get the new one in

lets have a vote...all in favor of you doing the down pipe say i...IIIIIIIIIIIII!!!


Dave

2002,7.3L,6sp,cc,lb,xmonitor,1705,zoodad,AFEstg2, wicked wheel,hpx ss line,straight pipe,325/65r18 mtz,kmc 18x10,6.5"procomp lift & track bars,firestone bags,viair 480,5g tank,train horns,70g transfer tank,leer shell,12k warn & hidden bumper kit,05-07 H-D headlights,35W 5K HIDs in head/fogs
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-07-2010, 12:28 AM
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I never had to beat, heat of clearance any firewall on my 2pc 3'' downpipe i installed. It sits about 1.5'' away from the firewall, which isnt horrible but not great so i covered the whole DP in header wrap, that fiberglass 2'' wide stuff that looks like mummies wore in egyptian times and that will keep the heat insulated from anything around it. to secure you can use stainless zap straps, or as i did i used 2.5 to 3.25'' stainless gear hose claps. Worked geat and resuable.

from factory ford used the tinfoil crap, and if you have an auto trans more need to keep the heat in the pipe with that plug on the lower RH side above the pan so close.
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