:hehe::hehe::hehe: It also says at the bottom that its not recommended for the 94-97 7.3L unless its 100% for sure its overboosting... but if I can just find the regulator I can make my own for A LOT cheaper.
PS: Yeah it does overboost cause I scanned it:hehe:
I bought my regulator from home depot, it was wicked hard to find,buried on the bottom shelf, and of course the depot's employees were no help as usual.
i throw my code in 2nd. did u buy ur truck with all the stuff on it? a previous ovner might have put a regulator, cause if they didnt it would go off no matter what unless ur check engine light doesnt work
I bought my regulator from home depot, it was wicked hard to find,buried on the bottom shelf, and of course the depot's employees were no help as usual.
Well Tyler, once again all you had ta do was ask me. oke Mine is a 120 psi regulator, but i have it set right, its not that hard to do. I even made a fancy bracket for mine.
I would prefer the diode to fool the boost personally. Not to mention it looks clean too. I dont need anything else under the hood. I have to keep space for that extra turbo.
I will have a boost fooler for sale if you want it. PM me for pricing.
I have heard it is smoother and more effective because it never lets the overboost code go off. And yeh it is a brass one from DI. once I get the Diodes in and test it properly I will post it up for sale.
a van turbo. Bigger exhaust housing to lower drive pressure and a bigger turbine. Running 50psi through this would be like running 35 through the stock housing.
Well it would be the same pressure on the turbo bearings because the stock turbo has a 2:1 ratio so 35psi = 70psi of drive pressure. The van turbo with the ceramic coating is about a 1.5:1 so 50psi = 75psi of drive pressure. So basically the same.
o well they can be rebuilt easily and a few people have pushed these past 50psi on PSN. its the drive pressure that makes all the difference. The RPMs do make a difference but the drive pressure is worse because of the lateral pressure being applied to the shaft.
Oh this I gotta hear, even drunk I gotta hear.... Lateral force ain't gonna matter much at over 100,000RPM... its the unbalanceness of the turbo thats gonna matter at 50PSI.... your WAY outta the map on that turbo, so your killing horspower, and super heating the air being pushed into the motor... so the shaking of the shaft from not being 1000000000% balanced is gonna make it explode.
ok I am running 50psi of boost and roughly 75psi of drive pressure. I ran the stock one to 42psi all the time and it was ok, had shaft play but that was because of other EGT reasons.
well it was balanced and it works fine. I am not BSing about this either. Yeh it is retarded for a stock turbo and it is not efficient but I normally dont run it hard at all. I hardly ever see over 28-30 PSI on my eco tune any way.
The housing done matter, I have a 1.15 housing and I can't push 50PSI... its all about the oil cooling system in it, and if its NOT a ball bearing turbo you absolutley CAN NOT run 50PSI thru it.
Definately I know that I have done it twice and when people wanna screw around with me or try and race me I just put it in my tow tune it is hot enough for me. I dont wanna argue about it I know it is horribly unsafe and I check it every now and then to make sure its ok.
I'm done talking abot this, back on topic... or vacations.
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