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Old 08-15-2013, 06:12 PM
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OBS gauge install

I know, theres been a couple hundred posts about this. Ive read most of them, but i have a specific question that i cant find answered in any of the posts or how to's.

First off, im using ISSpro EV1 gauges. Boost, trans temp, and Pyro. The boost is mechanical, the other two are electrically controlled, so they come with the driver/amp box. They are pre-wired with a 4 pin plug that plugs into the back of the gauge. I must mount the amp box (or driver box) somewhere. I chose down on the firewall by the pedals, but not in the way of the brake and throttle (E4OD truck). Now, my question is, Whats the best way to get the wiring up to the gauge pod? I found what i thought was the best way, but theres not near enough wire allowed. Id like to go behind the parking brake assembly (big aluminum bracked) but i cant find enough room. I started the install today, but got held up and didnt finish yet. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:26 PM
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I run though the light switch area and back up into the pillar
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:28 PM
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Thats where i have them at now, but idk the best way to get them to there. I have it running from the firewall by the clutch block off plate, in wire loom, to under the fuse block, beside the fuse block, up to the headlight switch area.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:32 PM
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basically the best way is the way that works. There is no set way to do this
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:43 PM
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It works as it is, i just wanted about another inch so i was seeing if anyone did theirs differently. I need the inch because i drilled my factory pillar plastic in 3 places, and put the wiring for each gauge through instead of all through one hole. that way if i had to take the gauges loose i could unplug two connectors, one boost line, and be done. but i can barely get the connector through the hole because the wiring is too short, by an inch. lol
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:46 PM
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I did mine the same way, cept I start at the gauge and worked towards the power source and the other parts
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:55 PM
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Next time, thats what im going to do. This is my first gauge install. I had my dad drill and tap the manifold, because im not very good at that yet, but other than that im doin it all myself. Not that its a huge accomplishment, but oh well. Makes me feel good. Maybe ill put a Zip tie on the wire so if it falls through the factory plastic, the zip tie will still be sticking up. I dont see myself needing to remove the gauges often. Unless i re-do my head liner (which will be soon) but other than that, maybe once or twice.
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:14 PM
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Hey you gotta start somewhere, Wish I woulda taken pics the other day when I re did my pyro with a new gauge. I could have shown ya how I did mine. It makes it really easy

but keep in mind ive done half a dozen gauge installs on OBS trucks
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:32 PM
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What type of gauges are you running? I hear people all the time say that their boost needle flutters because of the MAP line, but some say "get a better quality gauge, it will fix it" I see where that could help. I have yet to try my ISSpro EV1. Hope it doesnt flutter too bad.

Ill mess with the Pyro tomorrow morning to see if i can squeeze an inch out of it, ive had the gauges for about 6 months but never put them on. Im finally getting around to it and im really liking how its coming together.

Any input on the power wiring for them? or Illumination? Im not running LED's so the factory dimmer would work with the bulbs. Is that a good idea?
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:44 PM
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I run autometer in all my trucks, Ive had nothing but good luck with them so far. Had one set of glow shifts that died out pretty quickly

As far as power I went off a key hot wire in the ignition circuit. I tapped it down under the column. Illumination I went with the dimmer wire off the light switch. That way they can all be dimmed down like my dash lights. Yes that would work with normal bulbs. Pretty sure it even works with LEDs just not as well
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