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post #1 of 39 Old 12-20-2012, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Stereo System Install/Discussion

Howdy,
I have a feeling Santa is bringing a shiny new stereo system for the obs and wanted to start a thread for questions and display.
What will be going in is the following...
Deck: Dual 200 watt stereo with bluetooth, ipod compatible hands free calling
Subs: 2 12" Rockford shallow mounts dual voice coil 4 ohm
Speakers: Front:kicker 6.5" back: Kicker 5x7
Amps:Quantum Audio that i have had for a while, using this for the speakers
Boss r6002 1200 watt two channel with a nifty bass control
the subs are going into sealed boxes and the kit is being wired with 12 gauge speaker wire 12 gauge RCA (set for each amp) and 4 gauge power wires(true copper)
Now for the question!
On the system i had in my previous truck i only had one sub and didn't have to worry about impedance and all that stuff, now on these two subs there is a few different ways of wiring them up.
Should i wire the subs for 2 ohms 4 ohms, series or parallel, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also on a side note, any easy fixes for the arm rests on the door to keep them from flaring out, really bothers me.
Thanks and Gig'em
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-Brandon-
1996 F 350 7.3L CCLB
6637 Intake; Banks: Intercooler, Up Pipes, Turbo; PHP Phoenix
4" down-pipe, cat delete,muffler delete, 4" turbo back exhaust
Sky Jacker Suspension, Limo Tint, Cobra Classic 29 LTD,
Stage 2 TC, improved internals
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post #2 of 39 Old 12-20-2012, 03:37 PM
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You will need to find out what ohm load that boss amp can run at before you determine how to wire up the speakers. Couple of scenarios here are, Each speaker (you say) is a dual 4, you can either go up to to 8ohm or down to 2ohm with each speaker. Then you can take your (two) 8ohm subs and go down to 4. I highly doubt that amp will run at 1ohm stable so here again you can take your (two) 2ohm subs and go back up to 4ohm's. Remember, the amp only puts out as much power as your putting a load on it, less load=less power. Also, that amp (you say) is a 2 channel, so it's probably bridgeable, but I highly doubt it will run at 2ohm's or less bridged. although it might. Let me know what you find out about the amp and what it's true power output is at 2 or 4ohm's


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post #3 of 39 Old 12-20-2012, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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the amp i have is the r6002, pretty sure these are the numbers you are looking for. This is more complicated then it seemed for my first system or at least it looks like that for now, thanks for the help
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-Brandon-
1996 F 350 7.3L CCLB
6637 Intake; Banks: Intercooler, Up Pipes, Turbo; PHP Phoenix
4" down-pipe, cat delete,muffler delete, 4" turbo back exhaust
Sky Jacker Suspension, Limo Tint, Cobra Classic 29 LTD,
Stage 2 TC, improved internals
Loudest, Proudest member of the Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2015!
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post #4 of 39 Old 12-20-2012, 10:15 PM
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No worries man, I'll help ya get it wired up correctly. According to your spec sheet you can run a 2ohm load on each channel of the amp. (stereo) Giving you 600 watts per speaker OR run a 4ohm load, BRIDGED (meaning positive on left channel and neg. on right channel yielding 1200 watts) Either way you will still be getting 600 watts for each speaker. Same difference. In your case I would wire each speaker to 2ohm and run the wires to each channel of the amp. To do this you will run a jumper wire from one voice coil to the other voice coil + to + and - to - this will drop each speaker to 2ohm, connecting the voice coils in a sense, then you will just run a pair of wires off of each speaker to the amp. One run per speaker, with me?

Also, I would run a dedicated 4 gauge power wire to this amp with a 80 thru 100 amp fuse. Place your fuse holder within a foot of the battery, or as close as possible. Make sure your ground wire matches the size of your power wire. 4 gauge as well, shorter in length the better. Scuff up paint, whatever you gotta do for a clean bare metal surface.

Let me know if you have anymore questions, it can be tricky wiring multiple dual voice coil subs. You also want to set your crossover setting on the amp to LOW PASS. and adjust your LP crossover to 80hz. More tricks to tuning with the bass knob, just let me know when u get there


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post #5 of 39 Old 12-20-2012, 11:48 PM
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damn i got beat to it already lol, your 12"s are gonna make your back seat move VERY far forward, even if they are shallow mount, i have 10's and they moved it up like 3 clicks ish but traxn is correct in all this, good luck with your set up, your gonna have fun when you pull out all your seats and door panels and running new wire to all your doors

here is mine
i have 4 gauge power and 2 gauge ground, i always make the grounds bigger kause i have blown many amps/fuses/subs and i have a 150 watt amp in this one 1000 watt sub and 600 watt 4 channel

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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post #6 of 39 Old 12-21-2012, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Great info! what is the reasoning for putting them at 2 ohms. physics class taught impedance and all that but never connected it to "real world" situations
check check and check have a dedicated power wire,run on the opposite side of the truck as the rcas hoping for less chance on noise ,fused, and i do have some 2 gauge some where i can ground it with knew about the cross over, why 80 Hz?
for the size, i won't have to move my seat forward, if i do it'll be just one click. the boxes i am getting are small enough, pre measured before i took the seat out, and ya running the wire was fun, patience is a virtue

-Brandon-
1996 F 350 7.3L CCLB
6637 Intake; Banks: Intercooler, Up Pipes, Turbo; PHP Phoenix
4" down-pipe, cat delete,muffler delete, 4" turbo back exhaust
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post #7 of 39 Old 12-21-2012, 09:55 AM
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there is a black oval kinda shaped thing in the firewall that i ran my power wire from under my hood to inside my truck, i drilled that out to make a nice grommet, and i ran my power wire down the drivers side, and all my RCA wires down the passenger side of the truck, i have 3 of them for the stereo, and the ohm's will make it hit harder lol, mine is a SVC 2 subs run at 1 ohm stable, hits nice and hard, and the reason for moving the seat up more is because the subs will beat the seat and ruin them quickly.

ohh and i broke 4 or 5 self tapping screws trying to drill through that "step" in the back of the cab under the rear window, so good luck

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marine5811
The stock downpipe in an OBS is flat because I'm a ginger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by alberta 7.3
Finding a decent woman is like shopping for a used truck. You spend most of your time picking through the money pits, wrecks, and basket cases until you find one that you can tolerate
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFLASH
Well at least you caught the loose bolts before they cause any damage. Nothing worse than a sloppy hole
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post #8 of 39 Old 12-21-2012, 03:31 PM
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There is no set rule to run them at 2ohm but you get more power from the amp if the impedance is lower. Look at your spec sheet, you will get 600w x 2 at a 2ohm load. You will get 200w x 2 at a 4ohm load. You can run it at 8 or whatever you want as long as it's not lower than 2, you just don't get as much power.
Also, the spec sheet gives RMS values, (Root, Mean, Square) google if you don't know meaning, (actual power), for a 4ohm load in stereo. And, it gives a MAX power value for a 2ohm load in stereo, max power values are highly false in their numbers as they don't constantly deliver that much power. So with that, your 2ohm power values are probably not that much. Your amp has two 25 amp fuses. Total of 50
14 volts X 50 = 700 watts (closer to a real power number)
You won't pull a full 50 amps so the total wattage will be less

As for the crossover, 80 Hz is a good place to start, most frequencies above that get a lil punchy sounding but if you listen to a lot of rock music you can go up a bit more to hear that kick drum beat


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post #9 of 39 Old 12-21-2012, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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ah! it makes sense! thank you for explaining! the boxes for the subs were supposed to be delivered yesterday but apparently my house is a "business that was closed". and its not looking good for today as they havent made it yet. lets hope for tomorrow, then hopefully the installation can begin, unless "Santa" wants to wrap them as they are supposed to be for Christmas anyways thanks for the info! much appreciated probably be back with more questions soon

-Brandon-
1996 F 350 7.3L CCLB
6637 Intake; Banks: Intercooler, Up Pipes, Turbo; PHP Phoenix
4" down-pipe, cat delete,muffler delete, 4" turbo back exhaust
Sky Jacker Suspension, Limo Tint, Cobra Classic 29 LTD,
Stage 2 TC, improved internals
Loudest, Proudest member of the Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2015!
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post #10 of 39 Old 12-21-2012, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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ok well now i'm thinking on how to make the speakers sound best, i'm sure the same rules on running speakers in parallel versus series bridged or not changes the ohms they run at so now i'm trying to figure out if wiring the speakers
what i have to make sound good haha
dual xdma 6415 which i dont think comes into play because I'm using the rcas to the amp and not the deck speaker outputs so
the amp is the quantum qsa 2150 two channel bridgeable
back speakers are kicker impulse 570i 4 ohm cant find specs on those
front speakers are kicker ds65
what kind of set up would work best or just run speakers wires to each and double up on each channel of the amp. same questions over and over again but you seem like you know your stuff so i'm taking advantage of the knowledge

-Brandon-
1996 F 350 7.3L CCLB
6637 Intake; Banks: Intercooler, Up Pipes, Turbo; PHP Phoenix
4" down-pipe, cat delete,muffler delete, 4" turbo back exhaust
Sky Jacker Suspension, Limo Tint, Cobra Classic 29 LTD,
Stage 2 TC, improved internals
Loudest, Proudest member of the Fightin' Texas Aggie Class of 2015!
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