door locks don't work - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 09-21-2010, 07:26 PM
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door locks don't work

so i have power locks and they don't work. There is power on both sides of the fuse that controls them along with the lumbar support. They don't work and neither does the lumbar support. There is no power to the lock switch and when i put power to it by a jumper wire they work but when i push them about 2-3 times the passenger side one quits working but tries to but don't move. Why ain't there any power to the switch? All my fuses are good and everything just no power to the switch, any help is much appriciated, thanks guys
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:23 PM
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Theres a black relay on the fuse panel that is also for the power locks, try that, there a few of these relays on there, try switching on first before you buy one to see if it works
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:33 PM
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Also check the wire harness going from the truck body to the doors. I had some broke wires were the wires have to bend when you open and close the door
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyoming View Post
Also check the wire harness going from the truck body to the doors. I had some broke wires were the wires have to bend when you open and close the door
thanks i'll have to check that out
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:10 PM
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any luck ?
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:32 AM
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Negative. I tried looking at the wires in the door jam area and didn't see nothing except a spot from where someone had poked a wire (the wire that is supposed to give power to the door locks) with a test light so I'm guessing its before that, and I really have no idea what to do here cause i know having to lock my doors manually isn't the end of the world but it's something that really bothers me because i have them and they should work and it'd be really nice if i could just hit the button to unlock/lock the doors, so I really have no idea what to do here
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:01 PM
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Pull the door trim panels and test the actuators"selenoids" and see if they are functioning properly.You will find them riveted to door frame.Use a test light ,and check it backwards till you find a solution
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:26 PM
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Door Lock Acuators

I pulled this from another forum because this works. I did it to mine and they work like brand new now.

WARNING: The following is long winded, but if you want your PDL's to work again WITHOUT spending any $$ read on.

I finally got tired of my non-working PDL's and decided to tear into my truck and find/fix the problem. There has been many discussions about possible issues and I have concluded that the majority of us are seeing actuator motor problems and not relays, switches etc. Ill start by saying the problem I have had is that when I hit the switch, the locks attempt to move and after repeated attempts, the signal appears to get weaker and weaker until nothing....I assumed relay or switch.....NOT THE CASE!

First I started by testing the signal at the harness plug to the actuator. Perfect. No issues here. Next I completely removed the actuator/lock mechanism and bench tested them with 12V..Here lies the problem. The actuator acted the same as when in the truck. First I did a thorough cleaning of all of the mechanism so it works freely and still had the same results. Here's where it get's tricky. These things are built so that they are NOT serviceable. I had already decided that they were going to need to be replaced, so I decided to break them open for closer inspection. It comes apart relatively easily, but appears that It cannot be put back together once apart. I drilled out two small rivets and then pried the case apart. As you pry the case apart you'll notice these small little plastic rods protrude up through the case cover. These rods are then "mushroomed" with heat through the upper case and then sealed with some kind of silicone. When you pry apart the case the "mushroom" head breaks off and the rod remains. You can dig out the silicone and mushroom head with a pick. It comes out very easy. Inside you will find a very small motor and some gear mechanism. I believed the problem at first to be worn brushes or dirty commutator contacts in the motor itself. You'll have to bend two little metal tabs out and pull off the brush housing on the back of the motor. I cleanded the gunk off the brushes and took 1500 grit to the commutator contacts and reassembled the motor. The motor worked, but if you applied even a slight amount of resistance on the armature, it would stop the motor. It should have been WAY stronger than this. I was stumped until I looked a little closer at the inside of the plastic brush housing. Inside you'll find a small, thin rectangular (thermal resistor relay, dodad, thingamabob??) pardon my ingnorance, but I'm not sure what to call it. All I know is that this little part is what keeps you from burning up the motor, should you continue to press the switch once the lock has been actuated. It appears that this thing wears out over time and will not allow enough signal to get through to the motor to make it work. THE FIX. I am cheap. Since I had done so much work up to this point, I decided that I would go a little further and try to make it work without spending the $$. I have better things to spend my money on than actuators. I took a small piece of aluminum foil and wrapped the "thing" voila! Perfectly working motor! I sat there and operated the thing for 10 minutes including one or two times stopping the armature and holding down the switch to see what would happen. The motor builds heat, but not much. Not enough to worry about. Now that I had a good working motor I decided I would try and reassemble the unit. The problem is you cannot glue the unit together as there is a rubber gasket around the perimiter of the case and if you tried to glue the rods into the case, you would not have enough pressure on the two halves of the case to keep the gears in place (these things actually apply a great deal of torque on the case) What I decided to do is completely break off the plastic rods flush with the bottom side of the case and then drill out the bottom case and screw it together. This worked perfectly. You'll need screws that are the same diameter as the holes in the top of the case to keep it from "wandering". Also the screws should not protrude through the back of the unit as some of the mechanism has some pretty close tolerances and a screw sticking through the back would not allow some of the mechanism to work (this can be remedied with a decent set of wire dikes or a hacksaw). I know all of this is hard to picture, but if you do decide to try this fix, you'll see what I am describing here. The locks are back in and working flawlessly.





Hope this helps. It solved my problems completely
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door locks don't work-dooracuator.jpg  

Last edited by Crazyace909; 11-04-2010 at 03:31 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-04-2010, 03:29 PM
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none of the door locks work?
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