'96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-04-2014, 03:56 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kimberly, Oregon
Posts: 8
Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Smile '96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably

Hello Everybody!
I recently purchased a 1996 F350 CCLB with a 7.3 and a 5 speed manual. It has 234,000 miles and was pretty much stock when purchased.
I decided to purchase this truck because:
A. I really like the OBS crew cab for family trips.
B. I like the 5 speed.
C. It has a 4:10 gear ratio which is great for towing.
D. I think the 7.3 Powerstroke is a great motor.

Things I have done to it so far.
1. Diamond Eye 4" Exhaust (3.5" Down Pipe)
2. 6637 Intake with Riff Raff Sleeve
3. AFE Rear Differential Cover with 75w-140 Synthetic Fluid Change
4. New Ball Joints, Front Wheel Bearings, Front Axle Seals, Front Disc Brakes, and Front Axle Fluid Change
5. New Coolant Cap
6. New Oil Fill Cap
7. New Injector O-Rings
8. New UVCH's
9. New Glow Plugs
10. New CPS
11. Unplugged EBPV
12. Oil Change, Fuel Filter Change, and Coolant Additive
13. CCV Mod
14. Riff Raff Intake and Plenum Boots
15. New ICP Sensor

Problems Remaining:
1. Leaking Up Pipes
2. Slow Turbo Spool (Doesn't come on till 1900 rpms)
3. Cranks slow when starting
4. Idles a little rough when at operating temp
5. Needs Clutch Replacement
6. Steering is sloppy
7. Smokes bluish white smoke when cold started. Smokes a little black smoke at WOT when hot.
8. Blow by amount seems normal for an engine of this vintage.

So...I've got a bit of work to complete on it before I haul cows this winter. I'm planning to fix most of these issues in the next 3-6 months. Here's what I've ordered in to prepare for the "GREAT REPAIR" as I've labeled it.

1. South Bend Clutch Kit. (350 hp capable...single disc)
2. Fast Spool Turbo from Ron Holland. (1.0 A/R exhaust housing)
3. EBPV Delete Outlet and Pedestal
4. New Stock Fuel Pump
5. High Pressure Oil Rail Cross Over Pipe
6. New Fuel and HPO Seals, O-Rings, and Sleeves
7. New Melling LPOP

Other things I hope to order for this repair segment:
1. Riff Raff Bellowed Up Pipes (They're out of stock for a couple of weeks)
2. Redhead steering gear box
3. Borgeson U-joint Steering shaft
4. A good set of shocks

Other things for next repair segment...(When I get some more money.)
5. MAYBE a set of stock injectors as I'm fairly certain that these have a large amount of wear with 234,000 miles.
6. MAYBE a 17 HPOP...gotta check pressures and duty cycle
7. MAYBE a good quality starter.

So, anyway, there's a description of what I'm doing. Please feel free to offer any suggestions or thoughts. I would appreciate any advice you might have as I have a fair amount of experience with these trucks but I know a lot of you have much more experience/knowledge.

Also, I have a couple of questions:
1. Should I replace the rear main seal?
I have read a lot of articles that say, "Don't Touch It!!!!" BUT.........it seems kind of foolish to be right there/ have access to it/ not replace it. It's not leaking to my knowledge at this time but it does have 234,000 miles on it.

2. Should I replace any of the seals on the ZF5/Transfer case while I have them out?
I think there is a little seepage of Transmission fluid from somewhere but nothing major.

3. Should I replace the O-Rings on the rear fuel rail plugs and HPO rail plugs while I have access to them with the tranny out?

4. Should I replace the water pump as a preventative measure while I'm changing the LPOP? It's the stock one from the factory.

5. Should I replace the wear ring on the damper when I am installing the LPOP? It's not leaking at this time.

I will probably have a few more questions as I work my way through this. Thanks in advance for your comments. I appreciate all the contributors on this forum.
Kind Regards,
Josiah
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 08-04-2014, 04:12 PM
the baconator

 

Join Date: May 2009
Location: Easton MD 21601
Posts: 11,640
Thanks: 6
Thanked 61 Times in 58 Posts
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
if it were me i wouldn't replace anything that didn't need it. do the clutch and the up pipes first. you may feel you do not need a 1.0 housing at that point. i would skip the HPX line, i feel it's one more thing to leak. check your oil pressure with a gauge, i have replaced the plug in the HPO reservoir with one from Napa. my stock pump with 277K+ miles is still fine. if you replace the injectors get bigger one (my thinking anyway). the water pump will mostly likely start to weep before it fails. replace it at that point. if you replace the LPOP or front seal you will need to replace the wear ring.

how is the GPR? that may have something to do with the smoke when cold.

invest in the FORD sealant, it's expensive but it works really well.

i also wouldn't put a stock fuel pump in i would swap to e fuel. really cleans up the engine bay.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to terryknight For This Useful Post:
early1999powerstroke (08-04-2014)
  #3  
Old 08-04-2014, 04:51 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kimberly, Oregon
Posts: 8
Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Thumbs up

Thanks for the reply terryknight.

I guess my thought process is that I don't want to have to tear into it more than I have to in the immediate future. Thus, the preventative replacements. I guess it also opens me up to possible problems if one of the replacements fail from one cause or another.

The GPR is new (Forgot to mention). When I replaced that along with the GP's it helped it start much better. The smoke on start up seems more like worn injectors. When I replaced the injector o-rings, that helped a little as a couple of them were leaking.

I have the HPX line on my Early 99 7.3 and it seemed to smooth out the idle and ICP readings just a little. I do agree with you though that it does give me more spots to have leaks.

I would love to go with E-fuel and maybe will at a later date but for now I just want to get the truck running as good as it can in semi-stock form. You are absolutely correct though that the engine valley is WAY over-crowded with the stock fuel system.

I think you are probably correct that the stock turbo would be much more impressive with intact up-pipes. However, I already have the replacement turbo so I will probably try it out. Also, the compressor wheel has a little wear to it on the original turbo so I was going to have to work on it anyway. No slop or bearing play though in the original turbo. I'll keep it around to tinker with.

Okay, I'll plan to replace the wear ring on the damper and buy the Ford sealant.

I'll also check the ICP with AE when I get a chance.

Thanks again for your thoughts and comments!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 08-04-2014, 05:16 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kimberly, Oregon
Posts: 8
Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
First Time Uploading Pics

Trying to get the size right so bear with me here.
Attached Thumbnails
'96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-turbo-1.jpg   '96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-turbo-2.jpg   '96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-flywheel.jpg  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 08-04-2014, 05:31 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kimberly, Oregon
Posts: 8
Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
More Pics

These pics should be bigger...
Attached Thumbnails
'96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-afe-diff.jpg   '96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-clutch.jpg   '96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-truck-front-1.jpg   '96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-truck-front-2.jpg   '96 Powerstroke-"The Great Repair" Fixing It To Haul Reliably-engine-1.jpg  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 08-04-2014, 06:49 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 153
Thanks: 8
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Consider the 6.0 fan swap. Really easy and moves more air.
Check the fuel tanks, as they probably leak.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to majorgator For This Useful Post:
early1999powerstroke (08-04-2014)
  #7  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:37 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kimberly, Oregon
Posts: 8
Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Hey majorgator,
Do you use a stock 6.0 fan and the 7.3 fan clutch? Or is it something different? Is it fairly straight forward or do you have to mod the shroud or something? Couldn't find any articles on it but probably was just looking in the wrong place.

Where do the fuel tanks normally leak from?
Thanks,
Josiah
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 08-04-2014, 07:59 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kimberly, Oregon
Posts: 8
Thanks: 3
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Okay, I found out the details on the 6.0 fan mod. Thanks for sending that my way.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 08-05-2014, 04:28 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 153
Thanks: 8
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
OK, looks like you're good. Basically, remove the old metal fan from the clutch (after you remove the assembly from the water pump) and bolt on the new plastic fan. Its a straight-fit mod, no further changes required. For me, I could tell the difference in the sound as I rev'd up the engine. I just bought a plain 6.0 fan from Amazon, like $55 or so.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to majorgator For This Useful Post:
early1999powerstroke (08-05-2014)
  #10  
Old 08-05-2014, 06:59 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 836
Thanks: 10
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
When you do this mod do you use a 6.0 fan clutch or the 7.3 fan clutch?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
clutch, maintenance, seals, turbo, up pipes

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors