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dropped off truck at the mechanics

9K views 68 replies 19 participants last post by  Jarrod B 
#1 · (Edited)
well i got tired of tryin to fix the issue im havin with it.

we'll see in a few days when the mechanic gets to it.

also, i happen to see some black smoke while on the highway.

:woot:and its all stock.(at the moment)

the mechanic right off said it might be the front cover after i told him what been done to it.

so im hopping its the cover.
 
#2 ·
ok
i called the mechanic today to checkup on the truck.

they found that the heater core and an oring on the water pump was leaking.
so they temporally bypassed the heater core and replaced the oring in the pump.

then they drained the oil and hooked up the cooling system to the pressure machine at the shop and left it with it on to see if there was any coolant in the tray in the morning.

no leaks detected.

so then they talked with the other mechanics to determine the next thing to do.
they put a uv dye in the oil system to check for contamination in the coolant after some driving.

so i picked it up today and drove it home. next week ill drive it about a 100 mi then drive it back to the shop for them to find the leak with the dye.
 
#4 ·
degas bottle?

that sucks! sounds like a really small internal hole :( but then again, i dunno wat im talking about

have you added anti-cavitation to the coolant ever?
 
#8 ·
#15 · (Edited)
sombody shoot me:banghead::banghead:



ok i went to talk to Ray's

basically it will cost $2700 to tear down and reassemble
the closest they can come to is when the engine warms up, it opens a leak.

this includes the engine being resealed all over and test every part for leaks.

thats the price if the front cover is ok.

if it is cracked, i have to buy a new one from ford.

quote:

R&R engine tear down and inspect
labor 2100

parts
563.51

shop supplies
12.40

tax
47.51
 
#17 ·
yes.....and if they cant fix it, he is gonna kill himself. its best to stay away from him when he gets mad....take the advice from me......im his sis!
 
#18 ·
i would see if i could just find another motor before i did that
 
#20 ·
he said that is the same price for a replacement drop in if they have one in the shop ready to go.

basiclly he will tear it down and reassemble it with new gaskets and seals.

while its apart, the block and heads will be pressure checked, if cracked, swaped out.

its almost a rebuild process but with out new parts.(besides the seals and gaskets)
 
#22 ·
he said that is the same price for a replacement drop in if they have one in the shop ready to go.

its almost a rebuild process but with out new parts.(besides the seals and gaskets)
Its a no brainer to me. If you can get a replacement for the price of a wanna-be rebuild, I'd just replace it. The engine has a bunch of miles on it, so who's to say that a month down the road you break a valve spring and suck a valve into the cylinder or something catastrophic like that. Then the engine is toast and you just dumped over 2k into it, and your going to need another 2k to drive it again. That's my 2 cents :dunno:
 
#21 ·
Try easy bandaid fix

My dad had water mixing with the engine oil on his old John Deere 450 track loader. He added some stuff from the auto parts store into the radiator that stopped the leak. I don't remember what it was called but it's the stuff that has the solid balls, not the liquid. I think I've seen this stuff at walmart too. It does eventually start leaking again but he does several oil changes before adding more. I don't know how many hours it lasts because the hour meter doesn't work. It might be worth trying if you don't want to fork out the cash to get it fixed.
 
#25 ·
My dad had water mixing with the engine oil on his old John Deere 450 track loader. He added some stuff from the auto parts store into the radiator that stopped the leak. I don't remember what it was called but it's the stuff that has the solid balls, not the liquid. I think I've seen this stuff at walmart too. It does eventually start leaking again but he does several oil changes before adding more. I don't know how many hours it lasts because the hour meter doesn't work. It might be worth trying if you don't want to fork out the cash to get it fixed.
never even heard of that b4

Its a no brainer to me. If you can get a replacement for the price of a wanna-be rebuild, I'd just replace it. The engine has a bunch of miles on it, so who's to say that a month down the road you break a valve spring and suck a valve into the cylinder or something catastrophic like that. Then the engine is toast and you just dumped over 2k into it, and your going to need another 2k to drive it again. That's my 2 cents :dunno:
Does your truck have 326,000 original miles or was it rebuit at 260,000? If it was rebuilt is there any kind of warranty? You might want to find out what exactly was rebuilt on the engine. Did they put in new liners or did they just put in new piston rings? If it has 326,000 original miles then you might want to just try the "stop leak" stuff (not sure of the actual name) to squeeze thousands of more miles out of the engine before spending money on a rebuild.

Is there water in the oil too or just oil in the water?
it started with oil in the coolant. then it turned into coolat in the oil.

it was completely rebuilt with new parts at 260k

they have a 12mo/12k mi warranty after its reassembled.

i would find a late model 7.3 and drop it in thats what i am working on right now for my truck
does it have to be a 97?
 
#23 ·
Does your truck have 326,000 original miles or was it rebuit at 260,000? If it was rebuilt is there any kind of warranty? You might want to find out what exactly was rebuilt on the engine. Did they put in new liners or did they just put in new piston rings? If it has 326,000 original miles then you might want to just try the "stop leak" stuff (not sure of the actual name) to squeeze thousands of more miles out of the engine before spending money on a rebuild.

Is there water in the oil too or just oil in the water?
 
#28 ·
If it's a truck your not planning on getting rid of for a while than a nice rebuilt engine would be the path I'd take, but if you've been eyeing a different truck (4x4, new body style etc) then maybe you want to look into that idea. Just my .02 cents :D

So they are telling you 2100 to fix it, or is that just a diagnostic price? You do have a 7.3 that was rebuilt like 70k ago, so maybe repairing it is worth looking into :dunno:
 
#30 ·
psd

I would drain all the coolant and get some real good block seal,I mean the real good stuff!! ypou put in the water like coolant run it for about 45min or a 60 min or so and drain let it sit for 24 hours and just put water back in and run it and get it hot and that will do the trick.for now.it give you time to look for good motor and you still can use your truck to go to school and work.until your motor comes in.and it could be a long time dont drop any more money in that thing.take it as a lost.F**k It.to much money to fix.and it sounds like you did aready.my 2 cents.:thumb:
 
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