Clarification regarding ohm testing GP's - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 Old 11-06-2008, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
RL1
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Clarification regarding ohm testing GP's

Hey guys, I have a 96 PSD with 128k on the clock. I purchased the truck 2yrs ago with 108k on it. I noticed hard stars from the beginning, it progressively got worse over time. I checked the GPR last year and it was sending voltage through when I turned the key on. I didnt test it with a MM just a light so I dont know how much. I tested it today and it's dead, that explains why it has gotten worse.

Anytime it gets below 75 degrees or so it takes forever to get the truck running. Blows white smoke like a s.o.b. so I knew fuel wasnt an issue. When it starts and I drive it enough to get up to running temp it will start all day long as long as the temperature outside is 40 and higher, and always starts immediately when I plug it in. I just signed up here today to do some research and learned a bit. I decided buy Motorcraft GP's. I'm sure a few if not all the GP's are shot so as long as i'm in there I'm replacing them all.

As far as the ohm testing goes, I found articles stating anywhere from 0.6 - 2.0 indicates a good plug. I think the article I found was regarding a diffrent year PSD because the plug description sounded diffrent. I have 2 plugs with 5 wires each on both covers. I set the MM to 2m and i'm getting readings out of all 4 plug bunches of 0.4 on the outermost wires in the plugs, nothing from the remaining wires in between the plugs. I also hooked the test light up to 12v and hit those outermost wires in the plugs and it lit up with all of them.

Now, if what I read was correct, and i'm doing everything correctly my 0.4 reading indicates all 8 GP's are bad Correct?
RL1 is offline  
post #2 of 12 Old 11-06-2008, 05:28 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
SteveKran's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Irmo, SC
Posts: 2,134
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to SteveKran Send a message via Yahoo to SteveKran
How accurate of a multimeter are you using?

What brand? How much did it cost?

Cutting 05 grill to fit 99-04


2003 F250 7.3L Fx4

Find me on AIM under S/N SteveKran

Custom Tuned 6 pos chip
MBRP 4" Turbo Back/Muffler MIA
Quadzilla Commander
Tymar Intake
Zoodad
Wicked Wheel
Leveling Kit
Nathan K5LA's/Dual Compressors/Dual 5 gallon tanks/1/2" lines

SteveKran is offline  
post #3 of 12 Old 11-06-2008, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
RL1
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveKran View Post
How accurate of a multimeter are you using?

What brand? How much did it cost?
As far as I know its pretty decent, bought it about 4yrs ago. Its was the top of the line craftsman at the time.....cost? Don't remember
RL1 is offline  
post #4 of 12 Old 11-07-2008, 02:55 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
SteveKran's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Irmo, SC
Posts: 2,134
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via AIM to SteveKran Send a message via Yahoo to SteveKran
I've compared one of craftsman's cheaper multimeters to my expensive fluke 89 and the craftsman is fairly accurate.

As far as you readings on your multimeter, are you saying that you are getting .4 megaohms? If you are, that's probably way to high. Check out this thread, NCHornet is a pretty knowledgeable person on this subject. Troubleshooting GPR & GP's

Cutting 05 grill to fit 99-04


2003 F250 7.3L Fx4

Find me on AIM under S/N SteveKran

Custom Tuned 6 pos chip
MBRP 4" Turbo Back/Muffler MIA
Quadzilla Commander
Tymar Intake
Zoodad
Wicked Wheel
Leveling Kit
Nathan K5LA's/Dual Compressors/Dual 5 gallon tanks/1/2" lines

SteveKran is offline  
post #5 of 12 Old 11-07-2008, 04:19 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Rantheman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eugene Oregon
Posts: 503
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
At each terminal into the valve cover you will want to check the out wires those are your glowplugs take a test light unplug the harness from the valve cover go from positive battery and hit the terminal in the valve cover it should activate the glowplug your test light should light up then on the harness side you just disconnected put your test light on ground and prob the terminal and have a friend your you switch the igntion on to see if your getting power to the glow plugs. Lastly your glowplugs should read from .1 to .6 Ohms you can do this with everything pluged in and one lead on the negative battery the other lead on the wire for that glowplug. hope this helps

1995 Ford F250 4X4 Sup cap Long bed off white
7.3L Powerstroke, 5 speed manual

Mods Stancor GPR, Diamond eye 3" DP, Diamond Eye 4" Exhaust, AFE Stage II Intake,3" plenum setup,Swamps IDM,Eletric Fuel System,Adrenaline HPOP,stage I sticks, ts 6 pos,
Banks 5" Tips, Leveling Kit,Dana 60 Swap, AutoMeter Boost, Pyro, Fuel Pressure
30% Windows,
Rantheman is offline  
post #6 of 12 Old 11-07-2008, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
RL1
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
SteveKran I've compared one of craftsman's cheaper multimeters to my expensive fluke 89 and the craftsman is fairly accurate.

As far as you readings on your multimeter, are you saying that you are getting .4 megaohms? If you are, that's probably way to high. Check out this thread, NCHornet is a pretty knowledgeable person on this subject. http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...g-gpr-gps.html
That is the article I found and was referring to when I did the testing yesterday - though it doesn't indicate to have the ignition forward when testing the GP's (sorry, it's obvious I'm totally new to this particular field, rarely used a multi meeter for anything but checking voltage) and your right, my initial post of 0.4 was totally incorrect with the meeter set @ 2m (milli) I get .004 and I get 0.04 when set to 20k with ignition forward - off I get .000 and 0.00 respectively.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rantheman View Post
At each terminal into the valve cover you will want to check the out wires those are your glowplugs take a test light unplug the harness from the valve cover go from positive battery and hit the terminal in the valve cover it should activate the glowplug your test light should light up then on the harness side you just disconnected put your test light on ground and prob the terminal and have a friend your you switch the igntion on to see if your getting power to the glow plugs. Lastly your glowplugs should read from .1 to .6 Ohms you can do this with everything pluged in and one lead on the negative battery the other lead on the wire for that glowplug. hope this helps
With the test light hooked to positive then hitting the outer most 2 prongs in the receiving plug on the valve cover the light goes on (same thing with the male plug, makes sense) with the test light grounded bumping the ignition forward to activate the GPR I get nothing - I knew it was dead, I jumped the GPR with a screwdriver while the test light was contacting a prong and it lit up right away.

I appreciate your patience wi
RL1 is offline  
post #7 of 12 Old 11-07-2008, 07:28 AM
Shaking the Bush Boss
 
CHUCK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 9,740
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Replacing GPs isent bad, the worst part is removing the right side vlv cover.

Chuck
CHUCK is offline  
post #8 of 12 Old 11-07-2008, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
RL1
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rantheman View Post
Lastly your glowplugs should read from .1 to .6 Ohms
Also, the other article byNCHornet states 0.6 and 2 ohms, there is almost no resistance if it reads .1

Also, just to be sure my meeter is working correctly i'm going to the electronics store to buy a .5 ohm resistor to compare my meeter reading in relation to the resistor.
RL1 is offline  
post #9 of 12 Old 11-07-2008, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
RL1
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 17
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
OK, I finally figured this out, I thought M stood for milli, so I assumed that was the lowest setting and it's actually the second highest next to 20M - M = Megaohms mm = milli - regardless both are wrong. So I set it totally left to 200 and tested my 1ohm resistor and it's reading 1.1 - 1.2.

I retested the GP's and i'm getting anywhere from 0.5 - 0.8 at best through all 8. I tested a brand new one out of the package and i'm seeing 2.1 - 2.2

So, i'm going to throw in a new GPR and see if it gets better, i'm not expecting anything great. i assume I should just replace all the GP's since they have such low readings compared to a brand new one
RL1 is offline  
post #10 of 12 Old 11-07-2008, 10:27 AM
Let's go B's!!!!

 
Southpaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Remington, Va. U.S.A.
Posts: 6,017
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 5 reviews
GEt the Stancor GPR for about $45 This is how it stacks up to the stock one.








Chris

2002 Crew Cab Long Bed
4" BDS, 35x13.50 Cooper STT on 20x10 Black Rockstars, and other stuff.....310,000 miles and counting...
<><
2 Thessalonians 3 v.6-15

Southpaw is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome